Mazda Millenia This sedan, the flagship luxury sedan, offers both a naturally aspirated and supercharged model, so you can have your luxury, and, if you have a need for speed, big horsepower.

2002 Mazda Millenia S questions

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Old 05-22-2007 | 08:11 AM
mrleezer0's Avatar
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Default 2002 Mazda Millenia S questions

I just bought this 2002 Mazda Millenia S with 86k on it. I am not familiar with these at all, my question is this. Not knowing the previous owner what should I go ahead and do as a prevenative maintnence on the vehicle? Also the ball joints are shot on the Driver front and I went to go pick up the parts and the clerk said there is only a lower ball joint, no uppers, is this true and if so is there something that has taken its place. Second I am leaking tranny fuid out of the Axle where it goes into the Transmission. Should I replace the Axle altogether or is there another issue, it does not seem like a lot, it just seems like it is not sealed properly. And finally have been searching for some type of repair manual, but I can't find anything newer than a 99 for the Millenia.
Any help would be great,
Thanks,
Matt
 
  #2  
Old 05-22-2007 | 08:56 AM
keninn's Avatar
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Default RE: 2002 Mazda Millenia S questions

if the axle also is the driver side, most likely the axle was replaced. when this is done, one way is to disconnect the strut assy from the ball joint. although only 3 bolts hold the ball joint to the control arm, they probably used a pickle fork and ruined the ball joint. and there is only the lower. it is easy to change, but you will need a ball joint separator, and not just any will work, because it is very tight in there. the "jaws" have to be really long and thin. otherwise, you have to use a pickle fork, and beat it. i dont care for the pickle fork method. the top of the knuckle is held by a link. this is a multi link suspension. also, it sounds like they buggered the final drive seal when installing the axle. you might want to find out who did the job, and not take the car there. ever. we have 2 99s', and i had to replace both axles on both cars at about 70k. the ball joints are still good. check the axle on the other side, too.
you can get a manual from the dealer, but i would check ebay. the most changes to the car were done on the 2001 my and later. so, a 2001 manual would work. there is also a separate manual with wiring diagrams, and one for brakes. there is a really early body manual, but discontinued after 96. beware of the manuals on cd, they are bootleg mitchell, and are no good. you can subscribe to all data thru autozone, but the factory manual is the best.
for preventative maintenance, i would go ahead and change the spark plugs. the rear bank is a real bear to do. front bank is a piece of cake. get good plugs, the factory ngk PZFR5F are the best, and, of course, the most expensive. because of the intense labor for the rear bank, lots of people neglect them. they are good for 60k. when you do it, swap the coils from the rear bank to the front. the rear bank gets a lot more heat, and the coils can go. they aint cheap. ebay has them sometimes. i got a whole set for like 20 bucks. a couple of good places for parts is:

http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214284
and:
http://www.trademotion.com/partlocat...?siteid=214627

both have the same catalog software. fuel filter is also a 60k item, it is on top of the fuel tank. remove the carpet in the trunk, up forward by the ski hole is a metal plate. under that is the filter. also not a fun job. i always flush brake, transmission, and coolant fluids yearly. i recommend lubegard for transmission additive, and water wetter for coolant. the timing belt is like iron, it will go forever, and it is a real bear to change. motor is non interference. i have changed out one accessory belt tensioner, them suckers are expensive. i got a spare set off ebay, but they are 300+ each. good luck

 
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