A little duct tape on the hose will work as a good short term fix to keep dirty and unmetered air from getting into the engine dgn. I checked a few sites like partsamerica.com but did not find any accordian inlet tubes available. Hopefully can get for not too much $$.
Pulling the electrical connectors should not make any difference with the air bag light at all. Disconnecting the battery would not either. The SAS system does a complete system check when you cycle the key and also monitors on a continuous basis with engine running. Past fault codes in the SAS system can not be cleared either by disconnecting the battery. It is stored as a hard fault and will keep the light on unless the module does a system check and finds all ok. Fault within the SAS module is probably coming and going as they sometimes do but would bet that if you give it a while it will probably come back on with regularity.

 

The intermitent nature of the light had me concerned that perhaps it was a wiring problem and not the SAS module itself. Must have been coincidence that it went off for the first time in two months after I did the TB cleaning. I'm sure it will come back on again...

 

It is kind of odd that it would go off after that long of a period being on but do not see any connections or wiring in the area thay you were at that could affect the SAS. Power is supplied thru under dash fuses METER and ENGINE and all of the wiring and ground points are inside the van.
Part number for the accordian hose is GY01-13-220B. (zeros there and not letter o). Looks to be pretty cheap at $20.35 retail.

 

Thanks for the part number. I'll get that ordered, but may need an O2 sensor as well....

I got the manifold replaced today (and was only charged for 2.3 hours, much better than the 4 the dealer wanted to charge). They cleared the codes for me, and within about 5 miles of leaving the shop, the CEL came back on. So I stopped at AutoZone on the way home and they read a P0037 code (O2 sensor, Bank 1, Sensor 2). I had him clear the code again, expecting it would come on again, but it did not yet come back on (only went about another 8 miles to home). Assuming the light will come back on, it this the same sensor that was on the right exhaust manifold? I looked at a Chilton's diagram online and the text was so small I couldn't tell where the Bank 1 #2 sensor was.

 

2.3 hours sounds much better djn. The P0037 is indicating a fault in the right bank rear O2 sensor heater circuit. This sensor is located in the crossover pipe that connects both manifold outlets to the rest of the exhaust and yes this is the same one that you were looking at before. The GY04-18-8861b-9U. Not that uncommon for an engine with a few miles to have O2 heaters fail as they are designed to heat the sensor up to a blistering 700-800 'F as fast as possible.The other thing that can throw this code is having left the sensor disconnected after removing the exhaust crossover pipe to replace the manifold. The connector is located on the back side of the intake manifold towards front of engine. Had some pics of both the connector and sensor but deleted them when you were going to have a shop to the work and now do not have a van of that year to retake[:@]. Might just try to take back to the shop and let them know that is possible they forgot to plug back in and have them give it a check.

 

Well, I finally replaced that SAS module with the brand new part from onlinemazdaparts.com. No more flashing airbag light! The whole thing took less than 30 minutes (and the dealer wanted to charge 3 hours for this!). Thanks toyour help and advice babyhuey, that problem is fixed.

Now I only have to deal with that O2 sensor. They make it confusing enough because the scanner reads "Bank 1, Sensor 2" but the Mazda part descriptions call it "front" and "rear". I'm using this diagram to try to locate it, but this only shows a front and rear sensor. I thought there were 4 sensors on this vehicle? You said this sensor is on the crossover pipe where the exhaust manifolds join, butthe connector is all the way up front on the intake side?It looks like it would be #5 on this diagram. Doyou agree?



[IMG]local://upfiles/8181/D91B91060AB148919000B5D45D0939C2.gif[/IMG]

 

I see your source of confusion djn. That is an exploded exhaust system view of a 1998 and earlier MPV that is rear wheel drive. 2000 and up is very different as they are front wheel drive. Couple of diagrams below that might make more sense. First is similar to yours although nothing is really labeled. Second is component location index diagram. #12 is the O2 sensor that you are having the problem with H02S12.
Not sure why onlinemazda parts calling them front or rear. Maybe refering to "more to front" of vehicle or "more to rear". Mazda parts computer does not list them as such. Only refers to illustion #1, #2, #3, or #4

Here is a little reference guide. Right and left bank is always just like right and left handed as if you were sitting on top of the engine with front of engine and drive belts to your front. Right bank of engine is always Bank #1. Upstream is before the pre-cat and downstream is after the pre-cat.
H02S11 = Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 1 = Right bank, upstream sensor
H02S12 = Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2= Right bank, downstream sensor
H02S21 = Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 1 = Left bank, upstream sensor
H02S22 = Heated Oxygen Sensor Bank 2 Sensor 2 = Left bank, upstream sensor

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/EB9EAD6B087043D3A41D312DCC29A388.gif[/IMG]

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/64A0F98A4E5D47D18F04C5592BE70814.gif[/IMG]

 

OK, that's clear now. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I should be able to slide up under the vehicle and change this with a wrench and/or pliers, correct? Or is the connector in some obscure place that requires several other parts to be removed?

By the way, in your first diagram, what is #4? A pre-cat? It has a braided steel cover on it. When they were changing my manifold, they pointed out that the connection joining this to the crossover pipe was badly rusted and could break soon.

 

Yes you should be able to jack up from of van with jackstands and have enough room to get at the sensor. No pliers. It is probably in there pretty tight after all this time and miles. Use a 22mm combination wrench. This is open wrench on one side and box end on the other. Make sure the sensor is correct and then just cut the wires right at the sensor (connector will not fit thru the box end). You can then slip the box end portion of the wrench on and break loose and remove. Can then use the open end part of wrench to tighten as it does not need to be that tight.
The part labeled #4 in the diagram is the crossover pipe that connects the two manifolds and outlet pipe all together. The braided portion is just there to be a flexable joint to allow the engine to move without making the rest of the exhaust system move with it. Would check with an exhaust shop to see if there is a possibility of welding before just replacing. Is just called a front pipe in parts computer. MSRP of $412.45. Part #GY01-40-500H.

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Here is the offending sensor front straight below.

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Here is the same sensor taken from rear area.

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This is the best image I could get of the sensor connector. This one was not in its mounting bracket but just laying there. It should be just behind and below the coil pack.

 

babyhuey - thanks for these great photos. I think I should be able to figure this out. I've been so dang busy with work lately I haven't had time to get to this sinceyou posted last. Hopefully this weekend... Thanks again for all the great help & advise you gave for my MPV. -djn