Hi, I am having Mazda MPV 2000, which is shifting hard to next gear at low speed 20-25MPH. This especially happens where your slow down and pick it up, like turnings. This may be happens while shifting from 2nd to 3rd. When I stop to 0MPH and raise it up, it goes fine. I took it to Mazda dealership, they ran a scan on transmission and said its not showing up any error codes and also said transmission software is up to date. I also took it Kennedy transmission, where they asked me to leave it for a day to check the problem. I am worried because they would come up some replacement parts suggestion, which I would end up spending, but really don't know whether that would fix the problem. Is there specialist for this? I am living in Saint Paul,MN.

Thanks for help.

 

My MVP has started doing the same andonly has 80,000 km.

 

Hi,
I live in Sydney Australia and have a 2003 MPV 5spd auto with 125,000km on the clock. About 3 weeks ago our MPV started doing exactly the same thing. Shifting from 2nd to 3rd at about 35km/h the transmission flairs, the engine revs increase and then it bangs into gear. It does it only after the trany has warmed up. evry other gear change is smoth and fine and the car runs beatifully. If we drive the car very gingerly then the problem does not apepar. Mazda and an Auto trans place here near home both say the electronicgear changing valves are buggered and the transmission needs an overhaul. At $4,000 to $5,000 I thought I would ask if anyone has any alternatives. I read babyhuey's fix under the 'transmission' thread.

The transmission is otherwise shifting so smooth that it is hard to beleive it needs a full overhaul.

Also I thought I might just change the trans fluid (DexIII) oil and see what happens. Can anyone tell me where the transmission drain plug us located?

Thanks agin, from you're Aussie mate.

 

Hello tatler1!! How is Australia you lucky dog. Would love to visit as I hear it is a beautiful and fascinating country.
There is a TCM software update for the 2002-2003 for some shift shock concerns. If the update has already been done and the shift flair and shock is still only occuring on the 2-3 upshift then instead of going after a complete overhaul have them check the solenoids on the valve body. This can be done directly from the TCM connector if needed.
About 6 months ago had a 2002 MPVwith same transmission in that was exhibiting a 2-3 shift flair and then mild shift shock intermittently but was happening most of the time. After looking thru the transmission manual I saw that when the transmission shifted from 2nd to 3rd the high clutch was one of the few things that was supposed to engage for third gear to occur. Checked the resistance of all of the shift solenoids as well as the high clutch solenoid and found that the high clutch solenoid had about twice the internal electrical resistance that it was supposed to. This made sense for the problem as the solenoid being slow to energize would cause a delay in the shift resulting in rpm flair and then hard engagement.
Ordered a new solenoid and owner was to return the following week to have the solenoid replaced. During that timethe solenoidtook a complete dump and went open circuit. When owner returned the O/D light was flashing and had a horrible shift shock in all gears as the transmission had gone into failsafe mode. Code P0798 was stored from high clutch solenoid valve circuit malfunction. Replaced the shift solenoid and transmission now shifts like new and has been for this whole time. Would sure be worth a check as the solenoid was only $125 or so. Specs are in the OE shop manual.
pressure control, 2-4 brake, and high clutch solenoids should be 2.6-3.2 ohms at 20'C
shift solenoids A, B, C, neutral shift, and reduction timing solenoids should be 14-18 ohms at 20'C.

Sure hope this works for you as it is a heck of a lot less expensive.

 

The same problem.

 

Mate, there should not be a transmission plug on any vehicle unless quite possibly it is a really big truck like a dump truck or bigger but what you have to do is take 17 10 mm bolts at the bottom of the transmission pan you take 16 of those out and leave the other one loose so that way the fluid will start coming out but before you start doing that make sure you have a very big pan to catch all the fluid start with the back of the pan and start taking the bolts out you should be working from the front of the vehicle at the front bonnet or bumper whichever it is that you might call it. Work your way around towards the front and leave one maybe two bolts still threaded but leave them out a little bit so that way the back of the pan can be pulled down and the rest of the fluid can come out and you can catch it in the big pan that you have.


The auto parts store would have an oil pan catch if you can't find something.


Then once most of the fluid is out then you take the last two loose bolts out and pour the rest of the fluid out into the big pan and then from there you have three 10 mm bolts holding in the old filter take those three loose and make sure you do not mix them up with the ones from the transmission pan because the transmission pan bolts are slightly longer by about 2 mm.


Take the old filter out take the new filter out of the box make sure the o-ring is in the box or on the filter itself.


Then replace the new filter opposite of how you took the old one off and then you take the gasket if it is a rubber gasket for your transmission pan and you can put it in the old transmission fluid just to help give it a good seal on the first run and you align it up on the pan first then you take a bolt and you put one bolt into the pan through the seal and then you put the pan up to the transmission in a line of that bolt its proper hole and hand tighten it until you can let go the pan and start putting more bolts in.


You should have about 5 quarts to fill it up.