2000 Protege bogs on incline (only)
#12
I was not implying that I don't set the factory marks before I start a belt replacement. I was stating that timing marks can often be ambiguous, appearing to fall between two points and thus confusing. Therefore, if an engine is running correctly at the time I replace a belt (and they always have been) the marking procedure I follow takes the question mark out of ensuring I get the belt back in the right place. Below is a cut & paste from a recommended procedure for replacing the belt on a Miata ("similar" engine). It addresses the fact that factory marks aren't always dead on exact and to use the "marked" belt procedure to ensure the timing relationship stays correct. Here is a link to the full article: Timing Belt Change
In as much as your comments seemed unnecessary, I still appreciate your information regarding the MAF identification that will be useful to me.
Mark positions!
Using a suitable socket, rotate the crankshaft pulley clockwise two complete turns. (The transmission should be in neutral for this.) Continue rotating until the "E" mark on the left camshaft pulley lines up with the "E" mark engraved on the cam dust cover and the "I" mark on the right camshaft pulley lines up with the "I" mark on the head. If the marks don't line up exactly, but are only off by half a tooth, use some chalk to mark the positions. If the marks don't line up and are off by a full tooth or more, your timing belt may have slipped. If this is the case, you may want to seek professional advice before continuing. (If the car was running fine, the belt most likely didn't slip and the marks are simply off for some other reason. If the car was running like crap, then the belt probably did slip.)
Before removing the old belt, count the teeth/spaces between all the points that the belt touches on the 3 wheels. Next, mark the starting "space", and ending space on both the belt and cams. This is easily done with some WhiteOut. Remove the belt. Transpose the marks from the old belt onto the new belt, and count the spaces to make sure that they are correct. Finally, match the new marks on the new belt with the marks on the cams/crankshaft.
In as much as your comments seemed unnecessary, I still appreciate your information regarding the MAF identification that will be useful to me.
Mark positions!
Using a suitable socket, rotate the crankshaft pulley clockwise two complete turns. (The transmission should be in neutral for this.) Continue rotating until the "E" mark on the left camshaft pulley lines up with the "E" mark engraved on the cam dust cover and the "I" mark on the right camshaft pulley lines up with the "I" mark on the head. If the marks don't line up exactly, but are only off by half a tooth, use some chalk to mark the positions. If the marks don't line up and are off by a full tooth or more, your timing belt may have slipped. If this is the case, you may want to seek professional advice before continuing. (If the car was running fine, the belt most likely didn't slip and the marks are simply off for some other reason. If the car was running like crap, then the belt probably did slip.)
Before removing the old belt, count the teeth/spaces between all the points that the belt touches on the 3 wheels. Next, mark the starting "space", and ending space on both the belt and cams. This is easily done with some WhiteOut. Remove the belt. Transpose the marks from the old belt onto the new belt, and count the spaces to make sure that they are correct. Finally, match the new marks on the new belt with the marks on the cams/crankshaft.
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