91' 1.6 OBD 2 flashes
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08-30-2010 | 11:25 AM
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91' 1.6 OBD 2 flashes
Hey guys,
I have a 91' 1.6 SOHC that was running along just fine last week when I drove off a square curb onto the road (out of a parking lot), which must have jarred something because 5 seconds later as I was speeding off, I suddenly lost engine electricals (it was not gradual, everything just cut). As I coasted along, I tried to re-engage the clutch and see if the engine would re-start or if it would at least sputter or something, indicating some other problem or out of fuel or something, but even after re-engagement there was nothing at all, not even when I tried applying fuel while it was still moving along.
After I had it on the side of the road, I tried to turn the engine over, and the battery was still very strong, but no start. Fuel gauge was low, but not empty (and I've had fuel run out on me before, it does not suddenly cut like that). I checked for spark, nothing on any wire. Nothing seemed to be coming out of the coil neither; I checked the coil, it was slightly out of spec (primary ~ 1.5 ohm, secondary ~12.5kOhm), but again, it wouldn't cause a sudden cut like that. I checked voltage to coil, it was good. I tried swapping both the igniter and the coil, but nothing.
I finally got it towed home, and checked the fuel pump; it was good. After that, I checked the OBD system, it gave me 2 flashes, pause 5s, 2 flashes, pause 5s, etc. So I assume this means code 02, which according to my Haynes, is a distributor Ne signal problem. Somehow we cleared the code, then I went and got me a used dizzy at the junk yard. I replaced it, and after some unsuccessful cranking, I checked the code again and still 02. This time, we thought it might be cabling. Referencing the Haynes manual, pin 2E from the PCM goes directly to the distributor (white-to-white wire), which I assume is some type of crank position or hall effect sensor cable. When checking for continuity, we found this connection was broken. For a quick check, I took the PCM out, and soldered a wire to it and replaced the wire going to the dizzy with it, but this didn't change anything, still no start. I didn't tamper with the wire on the connector, so it's connected in a "Y" configuration right now (the other end being broken between the connector and the cut wire at the distributor end), which I don't know if it may affect the signal or not; I may try pulling the mating pin out of the connector and see.
Other than that, I'm starting to run out of ideas, but I'm quite certain the symptoms point to something electrical. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks!
li Arc
I have a 91' 1.6 SOHC that was running along just fine last week when I drove off a square curb onto the road (out of a parking lot), which must have jarred something because 5 seconds later as I was speeding off, I suddenly lost engine electricals (it was not gradual, everything just cut). As I coasted along, I tried to re-engage the clutch and see if the engine would re-start or if it would at least sputter or something, indicating some other problem or out of fuel or something, but even after re-engagement there was nothing at all, not even when I tried applying fuel while it was still moving along.
After I had it on the side of the road, I tried to turn the engine over, and the battery was still very strong, but no start. Fuel gauge was low, but not empty (and I've had fuel run out on me before, it does not suddenly cut like that). I checked for spark, nothing on any wire. Nothing seemed to be coming out of the coil neither; I checked the coil, it was slightly out of spec (primary ~ 1.5 ohm, secondary ~12.5kOhm), but again, it wouldn't cause a sudden cut like that. I checked voltage to coil, it was good. I tried swapping both the igniter and the coil, but nothing.
I finally got it towed home, and checked the fuel pump; it was good. After that, I checked the OBD system, it gave me 2 flashes, pause 5s, 2 flashes, pause 5s, etc. So I assume this means code 02, which according to my Haynes, is a distributor Ne signal problem. Somehow we cleared the code, then I went and got me a used dizzy at the junk yard. I replaced it, and after some unsuccessful cranking, I checked the code again and still 02. This time, we thought it might be cabling. Referencing the Haynes manual, pin 2E from the PCM goes directly to the distributor (white-to-white wire), which I assume is some type of crank position or hall effect sensor cable. When checking for continuity, we found this connection was broken. For a quick check, I took the PCM out, and soldered a wire to it and replaced the wire going to the dizzy with it, but this didn't change anything, still no start. I didn't tamper with the wire on the connector, so it's connected in a "Y" configuration right now (the other end being broken between the connector and the cut wire at the distributor end), which I don't know if it may affect the signal or not; I may try pulling the mating pin out of the connector and see.
Other than that, I'm starting to run out of ideas, but I'm quite certain the symptoms point to something electrical. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks!
li Arc
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