Hi, I just purchased a 94 Protoge LX, 109k, 5spd... Car runs pretty good, but it does have some issues. I would like to seek advice on the following.

1. The rear seat is loose underneath, it looks like there's two bolt thingy's missing from where the front bottom of the seats hook into. Anyone know where I can find a replacement for this?

2. The headliner in the rear is sagging a bit, what is the best way to fix this?

3. The idle is a tad bit rough, car runs well otherwise. I'm thinking about having it checked out by a mechanic in a month or so...

4. The seat belt sensor goes off occasionally (yes, I'm wearing the lower belt!), oddly - it seems to go off more frequently after making a turn or while driving in slower traffic...

5. Cruise control doesn't work

Any tips or suggestions would be great! Thanks

 

1. Not sure which part you are needing. Can you provide a picture?
2. If is only the fabric then a spray trim adhesive can be found at most parts stores. If entire headliner then have had fairly good luck with a decent hot glue gun to reattach to sheet metal.
3. May need to have base idle speed adjusted if too low but possible sagging engine mounts could create same concern.
4.The sensor for seat belt is in the shoulder belt retractor assembly between the seats. No sensor for lower belt. Light and warning chime usually both go off when sensor is worn. There is a replacement sensor available but not sure of the part number. Often the intermittent going off can be eliminated by moving your seat forward or back a notch or else by taking up a inch or two of the shoulder belt with a clip. The sensor is looking at how far the seat belt is pulled out from the retractor and by changing this position the reminder can ususally be eliminated.
5. Cruise control, not a clue without a more info.

 

UPDATE:

I've had the car a couple of weeks, and have gotten to know it a bit better.

1. I ordered some trim pieces from the local Mazda dealer. I think I'm missing two bolts for the rear seat cushions, hopefully I'll be able to see how they fit into the plastic tab thingy's...

2. I sprayed the headliner and it seems to be holding for the most part. The fabric seems to have shrunk a bit and doesn't quite go to the end. If it falls out considerdably within the year, I'll probably have it professionally replaced if possible.

3. I attempted to remedy the rought idle by replacing plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. Car still ran rough during idle afterwards, I discovered a vacuum hose that was disconnected from the cruise control module thing. After plugging it in, the engine ran perfectly smooth and cruise control has functioned perfectly ever since!

4. Thank you for the information about the selt belt sensor! I have the seat as far forward as I feel comfortable with, so I may try to replace the sensor. I do notice that when I pull it out a bit, the warning immediately goes off. The previous owner probably had a larger gut than myself. Lately on occasion, the belt hasn't come forward while opening the door. If I were to figure out the sensor that's needed, how easy is it to replace?

5. The interior seems to have some quirks (squeaks/rattles). I noticed the front passenger door is popping off... If it happens again, I may try bending the tab thingy's out and then putting it back in again. There is also a plastic panel to the left of the instrument cluster that is popping out a bit.

I know some of you probably think I should just deal, but I'm pretty picky when it comes to some annoyances...

Other comments:

Fortunately, I believe the car to be mechanically sound. It turned 110,000 miles - and I changed it's oil with Supertech 10w30 HM Full Synthetic and Supertech filter, my plan is to change the oil every 5,000 miles as indicated by Mazda's severe maintanance schedule. I may try a Wix/Napa Gold (Dana) filter next time, I've heard many good comments about those. The car doesn't consume any oil at this point, I'm very pleased. I may also try synthetic gear lubricant as well (manual)... Man o man, I used to own a '94 Mitsubishi Eclipse with the 4g37 engine... Good car but I had to add oil to it all the time. All in all, the Mazda seems true mechanically... I believe the front driver's side brake caliper sticks a bit but it doesn't really annoy me too much. I hope the CV's stay in good shape, I've read reviews of owners having to replace those somewhat frequently.

 

Looks like you are getting everything all squared away ok. That seat belt beeper can pretty annoying I know. My 91 323 did the same and was a pain untill I replaced that sensor. You probably will have a tough time locating thru the dealer. Does not show up on the parts computer but indicates you have to buy the entire shoulder belt retractor assembly for almost $250.00. I could not even find the bulletin about replacing it in the online TSB lookup on dealer site. Finally found it in the old 1998 mazda service bulletin book that Mazda used to send at years end with all of the years bulletins in it. If your dealer kept those books then bulletin is Catagory S, bulletin # 011/98. It has instructions on how to replace as you have to pull belt all the way out and measure 650mm from retractor and mark with tape and fix in place with binder clip and yada yada yada. If they do not have the bulletin then PM me a fax number and will send you off a copy. Anyway, the switch is a part #BR71-57-924 and only show 48 left in the 3 US warehouses. Retails for $29.35.

The passive retractor not moving forward when opening door is about 99% probable due to a sticking microswitch in the drivers door latch. There was recall #72803 and SSP 31 that covered both that switch and the passive shoulder belt years ago but does not include your model year. Only applied to 90-93 Protege. You might talk to your dealer and see if they will goodwill a repair as it is a safety issue and they might. The switch was available as a separate part for those year latches and only retails for $11.75. Otherwise you have to buy the entire latch which will run you around $160.00. If they will not replace under any goodwill warranty I might be able to cross reference the latch in your car to see which switch might fit. Post back with what you find out.

 

Hello, was reading your post and thought I would drop a hint or 2.
The rear seat lower portion slides back and down and the 2 front metal loops or prongs drop down into the corresponding holes on the car body. There are no bolts. You may have to add some padding to lessen the jostling.
As far as the seatbelt chime, there is a way to bypass the system cheaply, and it will never give you problems again. You pull off the center e-brake console cover that the belts go into, and see the electrical connector that goes to the seatbelt rollersl? Disconnect it and make 2 small jumpers using spade connectors and and wire, plug the 4 connector ends into the connector and ty-wrap it to something. Done deal. If you want to see a pic, let me know. Btw, I got this quick-fix from another Protege site, I'm not the guy who came up with it.

 

I dug up a couple pics of the seatbelt sensor bypass, it's too easy, and will stop that damn buzzing. After you make the jumpers, just plug them in like in the picture, and ty-wrap it to the metal loop above the reels. Done.

[IMG]local://upfiles/3052/15FF6F52FBBF447C8918508F3B9DD10A.jpg[/IMG]

 

here is the stuff you need to know for the seatbelt sensor fix. i just had to do it last weekend, and it works great.

http://www.clubprotege.com/wil/howto/seatbeltlight/

 

Wow! Thanks for the seatbelt tip! That's awesome Any safety issues concerning that? Or is it just an idiot light?

 

No safety issues other that not having a reminder to buckle up. The switches only function is for the light and buzzer.