Currently Im having a big issue with my 96. Every morning, I have VERY hard time getting it started. Especially when it really cold. The colder it is, the harder it is to start. It take me 15 minutes to get the car started. This happens ONLY when the weather is cold. My 96 starts OK when the weather is warm, no matter how long it sits. BUT when weather is cold. Its VERY difficult to start. In the mornings, AND each time after engine cooled from a drive.

BUT while cranking the engine. It sounds like 1 cyl is firing. Then after many cranks, VERY slowly the firing is improving. Then several more attempts, it finally starts "picking up" but SLOWLY. Then it finally starts!
I dont get any black smoke, little white smoke I get (not that much though), I don't smell gas, or other odd things. I checked the spark plugs one time while having the problem. It seems like the plugs are all wet. Didn't seem like it smell like gas.

Once it starts. Its NO problem to start AS LONG AS engine is in operating temperature. Or even when weather is hot.

Have any of you had a problem like this before that you fixed??

I been doing a lot of research. It calls for leaking injectors, defective ignition parts, and bad sensors paticularly the coolant temp, and intake air temp sensors.

TODAY I replaced the coolant temp sensor. Im yet to see if it makes a difference.

 

Ok. So the coolant temperature sensor did not do the trick. I did some diagnoses. Using the shop manual, and a multimeter (very handy tool). After doing extensive diagnose, I found that the combustion chambers of engine is getting flooded. Im not sure if its fuel or not. And the spark plugs are soaked! OBVIOUSLY this is what makes it hard to start! Its flooding.

So NOW I know what is happening. Now for me to fiqure out: What is MAKING it flood like that! There are 2 explainations I can think of as of now. One would be Leaking injectors. Or a problem with the pressure of fuel! I really think its the fuel pressure regulator! Im going to check, and come back here!

 

did you ever figure out your flooding problem?? i've got one doing that too, only thing is when i drive it, it wont take fuel, as in i have to bring the throtle on very slowly to get it to accelerate and not stumble.

 

The problem you have to me sounds like a bad fuel pump. But not sure though.

But for my problem. I did more diagnose. I borrowed a fuel pressure tester from Autozone. I ran all the tests to do with fuel pressure. The fuel system is OK. Normal pressure etc. So now it does boil down just a pretty simple explaination: It is VERY likely to be LEAKING injectors.

Now the problem I have with this. Those injectors are very expensive. Autozone wants $110 for EACH injector, new. WOW almost $500 for the four. WELL, Ill be heading to the self serve wrecking yards. They are $6 each there, used of course. As of 12-20-10, I have not come across a car like mines. So I have to wait til they have one. Cause NO WAY will I pay $110 for each injector.

OH BTW, the coolant temperature sensor did NOT change anything. DO NOT WASTE YOUR MONEY REPLACING PARTS WITHOUT TESTING THEM FIRST! SAVE YOURSELF A BUNDLE!

 

OK all! I finally came across a 95/96 Mazda Protege in the self serve wrecking yards today! YIPPEE! So I obtained 4 injectors and a fuel pressure regulator (even though mines tested OK). Just today (1-6-11) I had just intalled the injectors (assuming their good) $6 each.

NOW for the ultimate test tommorow morning!

 

S#!T.... STILL didnt do the trick! Unless it coencidence that those injectors are flooding too. DOUBT it! I replaced the injectors with some other used ones. And STILL doing exactly the same thing. FLOODING. Im am puzzled! I just CANT make out what is causing the cyls to get flooded! This happens after I turn off engine (after I got it to start). I can tell cause I removed the spark plug as soon as I turn off. I can see some liquid filling the top of the piston if I look really closely! I really don't think its water/coolant, cause I dont have any issues with losing coolant what so ever. Water/coolant level is the SAME for the last 5000 miles. My car does NOT overheat. The only thing I can think of now is the possibility of the low compression having anything to do with this. Compression is about 100 lbs per cyl. Specs say no less than 140 lbs. But if I have low compression, I cant see why my car does NOT eat oil! I have ran very thick oil, compression is still the exact same reading. Im thinking there's a possibility that timing belt may have been changed and that mechanic may have put the belt on wrong. "Missed that notch or 2 on that pully" possibly. IM GOING TO CHECK!

BUT lately though, the weather has been slightly warmer. It has been less difficult to start lately

 

its flooding cause you are sitting there with the key turned the fuel pump keeps going but if there is nothing burning the fuel its just going to keep filling the cylinders if the spark plugs are wet there oviously not fireing which could simply be your ignition coil or distributor cap

 

I am having the same problem as fueled but with 97. I went to the junk yard and picked up another dist/coil yesterday and went to start it up this morning and still takes 10 min to start in 30 degree weather. I just went out to start it and it fired right up now that it is 65 degrees outside. Oh but my 97 has 160 compression all 4 cylinders. Anybody got any ideas?

 

I was getting exited when I looked at the crackshaft posistion sensor, cause I saw it had all kinds of oil and dirt all over it. I took out the sensor and cleaned it.... but STILL having the problem. Hard starting when cold. DAMN! As of now, Im MORE puzzled than EVER before. NOTHING seem wrong in any way with the engine. I checked the oil. NORMAL! No signs of coolant and odd smell in it. Does not over heat, or loose fluid. THE WORKS! And to ADD to me being puzzled, Today in the afternoon, I tried it, and the car started without a fight! But temperature was about 70 degrees. (Its start FINE when outside temp is warm). I DON'T KNOW MANNN! Engine is perfect. I don't know what it is..... Possibly to do with the electrical part on the air cleaner assembly, OR maybe a bad computer???

 

ATTENTION ALL ATTENTION!!!!!!!!!!!!

I went on further research online. Googling this subject. I think I have the ANSWER for what the HELL it is!!!! Its the ENGINE thats bad, The head of the engine has eroded valves. Replacement of head is needed. I got this from another thread in this site. Read this: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/arc...p/t-11398.html