Hello Everyone,

First I need to admit I am not always the brightest when it comes to trouble shooting car issues, but I am in the process of trying to do more and this one has got me scratching my head- hoping it is an easy one you guys could help me out on.

A little info on the car:

2003 Protege 5
118k miles
manual transmission
No electrical problems in the past


Background info on the issue:

This past Friday, I replaced my front rotors, pads, and repainted the calipers. Had no issues.

A couple days later (Sunday), I painted the rear calipers, and flushed/bled all the brakes. Had no issue.

I drove it a few miles down the road from the garage and parked it- no lights were on. A few hours later, I hopped in the car and drove maybe 15 miles to the store- still, no lights were on.

While idling in the store parking lot, I got out of the car to looked at the clutch height adjusting screws (under the dash) that I had read about earlier in the day (for another project). Although it may be insignificant- i did accidentally push the clutch cut switch all the way in too.

I got back up, sat in the driver seat (car is still idling), and found that both the ABS and E Brake lights were on.

I shut off the engine. Pumped the brakes a few times. Gave them one last good push, and started the car. Neither light came on.

Drove a few blocks down the street. Both lights came back on.

Finally got to where I was headed, popped the hood and checked the fluid level. Seemed fine. About 3/4 between min and max (where i filled it to before). Both lights remained on for the ride home.

This morning, while driving to work, both lights remained on.

I had some goofy ideal while at work, "maybe the master cylinder cap isn't on tight enough?" - Not even sure this would matter, but figured if the lights were still on when I cranked it over, I'd give it hell to see if it would do anything.

Turned the car on. Both lights came on and stayed on.

Shut the car off, popped the hood. Backed the cap off a bit and tightened it down nice and snug.

Started he car, and "wah-lah," the lights were off. Thinking that would be funny but awesome if it was the issue on my 25 minute commute home, around the 20 minute mark, they both turned back on...

I'm stumped.

Any information I seem to find online is for lights that are continuously on and never turn off. In my case, they are not always on when I first start the car, or even after I drive it a few miles. Eventually they seem to kick on and stay lit, but I have no idea whats causing it other than maybe loose wiring?

Any ideas!?

Thanks.

 

ABS Sensor misaligned, dirty, clearance?.

Diagnosing Antilock Brake System Wheel Speed Sensors

 

I forgot to add- when I painted the rear calipers I opened them up (as if I were going to change the pads) to mask off areas before spray painting them and followed the service manual (remove the parking brake cable, clip. screw plug. lock bolt.) Is it possible I bumped something/ knocked something loose that could turn trigger the light to randomly kick on and stay lit?

 

Just a thought. If I managed to leave some air in the lines, would that cause them to come on?
Thanks.

 

You need a code check. It could a number of issues.

 

Is there any way to do the code check myself without the diagnostic tool? No auto store seems to be able to do it and the dealer wants $99 to simply read it...

 

I would retrace my steps.
I also would replace all brake fluid. If any air got trapped this would remove it. Clean the tone wheels and make sure the sensors are clean and close enough to the tone wheels.
Look for connectors and harnesses for the sensors. Disconnect and re-connect them to remove any corrosion.
If that does not fix it , bite the bullet and pay for the scan. Look for an independent shop that will do it for less.

 

$99 to simply read it? not worth it at all. Why not trying to buy VXDIAG VCX NANO from China WOBD2 website? $109 free shipping with powerful multi-functions.

VXDIAG VCX Nano Function:
1. Programming & Installation of new ECUs (PCM, ABS, Instrument Cluster, Air Bag, Fuel Pumps, etc.)
2. Live Data-stream with Recording & Playback Functions for Main ECUs
3. Read & Clear Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)
4. Set, Adjust or Remove Speed Governors
5. Automatic vehicle recognition
6. New Software Re-flash for Existing ECUs
7. All Other Dealer Functions
8. Steering Angle Resets
9. Guided Fault Finding
10. Program New Keys
11. DPF Regeneration
12. Brake Bleeding
13. Injector Coding