ABS light and brake light help!
#1
ABS light and brake light help!
About one year ago I replace the left rear wheel hub assembly on my 2003 Protege. Since then (roughly) I have been having trouble with the ABS light and brake light (the one that goes on when the parking brake is on) coming on my dash. Often when they come on or go off the ABS shutters in a strange way. This only happens if you are applying the brakes at the time when the lights come on. Sometimes, though, it comes on when the brakes are not being applied and then there is no strange feel, the lights just pop on. They always come and go together, never individually. I am not sure if it is related but my parking brake has also quit working. There is just no tension when you pull it up and the car doesn't slow when rolling at a slow speed if it is pulled.
I don't know what to do about this situation. I am very reluctant to take it to the shop and pay them $100 just to plug in their machine and tell me it needs tons of repairs that it doesn't need. I have been down that road before. I also don't want to pay all that money for them to tell me it needs some $2 sensor. I think you guys know what I am getting at. Anyway, has anyone had this problem before? Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
I don't know what to do about this situation. I am very reluctant to take it to the shop and pay them $100 just to plug in their machine and tell me it needs tons of repairs that it doesn't need. I have been down that road before. I also don't want to pay all that money for them to tell me it needs some $2 sensor. I think you guys know what I am getting at. Anyway, has anyone had this problem before? Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
#3
Thanks for your reply. I have since done lots of research and determined that is most likely the problem. I feel like it is mostly likely the left rear sensor since that is the side that I did the work on. I plan on taking it apart again just to check the alignment of the sensor as well as cleaning it. I just can't stand to spend $100 to have someone take 2 minutes to hook it up to a computer just to tell me that the repair is $500 more. Especially when I can do it for a fraction of the price. I can replace both of the rear sensors (which all research I have done indicates must be the problem) for about $200 and even that is only double the price of just the diagnosis at my local shop.
Does anyone here have the part number of the sensors? Anyone have a good source for the parts?
Thanks in advance!
Does anyone here have the part number of the sensors? Anyone have a good source for the parts?
Thanks in advance!
#4
I am having the same problem of the ABS and e-brake lights coming on and suspect i also need to replace a rear sensor for my '02 Protege. When the lights do come on the ABS does not work but the e-brake still works.
Do you have any links for a DIY replacement of the rear sensor or know of websites to look at for more information?
Thanks.
Do you have any links for a DIY replacement of the rear sensor or know of websites to look at for more information?
Thanks.
#5
My ebrake is also not working but I am not sure that is a related problem. When the light is on the ABS does not work. When it goes back off (which it has not done lately) the Abs does work. I am not sure if there is a how to website around. I wish someone would post a part number and good source for the part. I plan to take pics and post them on my website when I do the job to help others out.
#6
Hey guys
I'm also having the same issue.
I took it to my mechanic and it took it apart and he's sure it's either an electrical wire that's faulty or the braking computer itself.
The exact same patern happens as the OP.
I'm not willing to put 500$ or such into it so I just figure that disabling the ABS completely might just get rid of my problem as that car brakes fine when both lighs light up.
Also, I was in vacation for two weeks and came back yesterday so the car didn't move for two weeks. The idle RPM at startup was VERY eratic, going from 200 to 1000 as if there were misfires in the engine. If I gave it some gas, it behaved as it should have while winding up but as soon as it went back to idle it stayed between 700 and 1000 RPM but still was a bit "shacky". As soon as I actually moved with it and got out of the driveway and braked, the ABS + brake lights went up as they sometimes do but the RPM was now rock solid.
Any thoughts ?
Should I just unplug the ABS and look at how it behaves ?
Was that just because my battery was low or could it be related to my ABS issue ?
Thanks!
I'm also having the same issue.
I took it to my mechanic and it took it apart and he's sure it's either an electrical wire that's faulty or the braking computer itself.
The exact same patern happens as the OP.
I'm not willing to put 500$ or such into it so I just figure that disabling the ABS completely might just get rid of my problem as that car brakes fine when both lighs light up.
Also, I was in vacation for two weeks and came back yesterday so the car didn't move for two weeks. The idle RPM at startup was VERY eratic, going from 200 to 1000 as if there were misfires in the engine. If I gave it some gas, it behaved as it should have while winding up but as soon as it went back to idle it stayed between 700 and 1000 RPM but still was a bit "shacky". As soon as I actually moved with it and got out of the driveway and braked, the ABS + brake lights went up as they sometimes do but the RPM was now rock solid.
Any thoughts ?
Should I just unplug the ABS and look at how it behaves ?
Was that just because my battery was low or could it be related to my ABS issue ?
Thanks!
#7
I have read other posts about having the ABS light problem and the engine acting strange but I don't recall ever seeing if they were definitely related or not. I have seen too many people suggesting the rear wheel speed sensor to think it is anything else for me at this point. Especially because the light started coming on shortly after I changed a rear wheel hub assembly.
As far as your car idling wildly, I wouldn't worry about it if it doesn't happen again. It could have been a fluke. If it happens regularly, get it looked at.
Now my check engine light is on and I think it is an oxygen sensor. When it rains, it pours. I can't complain though, we bought the car new in 03 and have barely put any money into it in over 120k! Alternator, tires and plenty of brakes is about it.
As far as your car idling wildly, I wouldn't worry about it if it doesn't happen again. It could have been a fluke. If it happens regularly, get it looked at.
Now my check engine light is on and I think it is an oxygen sensor. When it rains, it pours. I can't complain though, we bought the car new in 03 and have barely put any money into it in over 120k! Alternator, tires and plenty of brakes is about it.
#9
Hey guys
I'm fairly sure this is the brake sensor however it's becoming more frequent and I dislike ABS brakes so I'll just pull the fuse out and that'll be that.
As for the rough idle, it started doing that again today and I went to my mechanic and he says my its my EGR valve.
My check engine light came on but that an be reset fairly easily. I've read around and this is supposedly a very frequent problem.
Would cleaning it usually solve the issue and keep the check engine from coming back on or is the EGR valve usually done for once the check engine light comes on ?
Also, from people who have done this, is it fairly easy to clean/replace ? I don't have much mechanic abilities but some of my buddies are not too bad. None of us are professional mechanics however but I've found a couple handy guides around that seem straightforward enough. Would that be something fairly easy to do for novices with the good guide ?
I'm fairly sure this is the brake sensor however it's becoming more frequent and I dislike ABS brakes so I'll just pull the fuse out and that'll be that.
As for the rough idle, it started doing that again today and I went to my mechanic and he says my its my EGR valve.
My check engine light came on but that an be reset fairly easily. I've read around and this is supposedly a very frequent problem.
Would cleaning it usually solve the issue and keep the check engine from coming back on or is the EGR valve usually done for once the check engine light comes on ?
Also, from people who have done this, is it fairly easy to clean/replace ? I don't have much mechanic abilities but some of my buddies are not too bad. None of us are professional mechanics however but I've found a couple handy guides around that seem straightforward enough. Would that be something fairly easy to do for novices with the good guide ?
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trace66usa
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07-03-2008 04:08 PM