Car runs sluggish and 21MPG performance :(
#1
Car runs sluggish and 21MPG performance :(
I have a Mazda Protege, 1999, Automatic Transmission. It is in really good condition. A few month ago I purchased it used, it had 3 previous owners and CarFax showed it was well maintained by the first owner who had it for almost 8 years. Last two owners, I have no clue.
Afetr buying it, I changed its Timing Belt for the first time in 123500 Miles. Everything is fine but the car is Sluggish and "it feels" like I am driving it with hand brake half on. Initial acceleration is good (especially without any other passengers) but after few seconds the transmission shifts up, I miss acceleration and it runs like a very old car. Also gas mileage is 21 MPG (for City/Hwy mix) which I think is not good. Wonderfully its MPG drops a little bit in all Highway trips! Air Filter is good too.
Despite I know my car is old but still I want to fix this problem. People say it would be due to Tuning or Front Wheels Alignment or Injection Computer failure but these are just guesses. Thanks for any advice.
ps. I posted this to few Protege clubs, I hope it is not against forum policy.
Afetr buying it, I changed its Timing Belt for the first time in 123500 Miles. Everything is fine but the car is Sluggish and "it feels" like I am driving it with hand brake half on. Initial acceleration is good (especially without any other passengers) but after few seconds the transmission shifts up, I miss acceleration and it runs like a very old car. Also gas mileage is 21 MPG (for City/Hwy mix) which I think is not good. Wonderfully its MPG drops a little bit in all Highway trips! Air Filter is good too.
Despite I know my car is old but still I want to fix this problem. People say it would be due to Tuning or Front Wheels Alignment or Injection Computer failure but these are just guesses. Thanks for any advice.
ps. I posted this to few Protege clubs, I hope it is not against forum policy.
#2
Yami: is the Check Engine Light (CEL) on? If it is on, please go to a auto parts store and let them give you the Digital Trouble Codes. Report them here. It will help us.
Funny thing you say that the car runs like the handbrake is half on. Maybe it is! Sometimes the handbrakes don't completely release at the wheel even though you released the lever. The car then shifts differently, feels sluggish and uses more gas.
Funny thing you say that the car runs like the handbrake is half on. Maybe it is! Sometimes the handbrakes don't completely release at the wheel even though you released the lever. The car then shifts differently, feels sluggish and uses more gas.
#3
Yami: is the Check Engine Light (CEL) on? If it is on, please go to a auto parts store and let them give you the Digital Trouble Codes. Report them here. It will help us.
Funny thing you say that the car runs like the handbrake is half on. Maybe it is! Sometimes the handbrakes don't completely release at the wheel even though you released the lever. The car then shifts differently, feels sluggish and uses more gas.
Funny thing you say that the car runs like the handbrake is half on. Maybe it is! Sometimes the handbrakes don't completely release at the wheel even though you released the lever. The car then shifts differently, feels sluggish and uses more gas.
I said everything but Yes, Check Engine is On and its Code is Catalyst Converter Bank bla bla bla (I don't remember the code but I googled it and it was the only error in OBDII which says my Catalyst Converter is gone and to be changed BUT it is $350 and honestly too pricy for me to do).
Can Catalyst Converter causes sluggishness? Many people drive with this error and they don't complain about performance.
Honestly sluggishness is not as much as hand brake half up, maybe some less. I just wanter to transfer meaning. No noise and no burn smell which normally should come in with driving while hand brake half up.
#5
"I said everything but Yes, Check Engine is On and its Code is Catalyst Converter Bank bla bla bla (I don't remember the code but I googled it and it was the only error in OBDII which says my Catalyst Converter is gone and to be changed BUT it is $350 and honestly too pricy for me to do)."
Yami: actually you did not mention the code in your original post. But that's o.k.
You could have the P0420 or the P1170. They refer to the catalyst performance. No code says you have to change the catalyst. The codes only tell you that the performance is not up to snug. It's your or the mechanic's job to find out why.
Shipo is right that the converter could be plugged or melted. You would have to measure back pressures to be sure.
There are other possible causes:
* Oxygen sensor malfunction
* Oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction
* Fuel injector malfunction
* Fuel pressure regulator malfunction
* Fuel pump malfunction
* Fuel delivery hose restriction
* Fuel filter restriction
* Fuel return hose restriction or leakage
* Intake air suction or leakage
* Ignition coil malfunction
* Insufficient compression
* Engine malfunction
That should keep you busy for a while.
Yami: actually you did not mention the code in your original post. But that's o.k.
You could have the P0420 or the P1170. They refer to the catalyst performance. No code says you have to change the catalyst. The codes only tell you that the performance is not up to snug. It's your or the mechanic's job to find out why.
Shipo is right that the converter could be plugged or melted. You would have to measure back pressures to be sure.
There are other possible causes:
* Oxygen sensor malfunction
* Oxygen sensor heater circuit malfunction
* Fuel injector malfunction
* Fuel pressure regulator malfunction
* Fuel pump malfunction
* Fuel delivery hose restriction
* Fuel filter restriction
* Fuel return hose restriction or leakage
* Intake air suction or leakage
* Ignition coil malfunction
* Insufficient compression
* Engine malfunction
That should keep you busy for a while.
#6
Hi friends
Just an update to let you know what was wrong with my car.
SPARK PLUGS !!!!
They were japanese NGK spark plugs which I think have never been changed by previous owners for past 12 years and 125,000 Miles!! Contacts were round, red and white ceramic area had brown colored ring where it reaches metal body. I changed them plus new air filter and everything now OK
Just an update to let you know what was wrong with my car.
SPARK PLUGS !!!!
They were japanese NGK spark plugs which I think have never been changed by previous owners for past 12 years and 125,000 Miles!! Contacts were round, red and white ceramic area had brown colored ring where it reaches metal body. I changed them plus new air filter and everything now OK
#8
Hey guys, I have a similar problem, lack of power esp around 3000 rpm, and changing plugs has not helped me yet, anyone that could point me in the right drection... No CEL codes, car starts fine and runs fine till 3000 rpm and the 'handbrake' comes on
#10
I brewed my own Gas Booster:
Toluene (or Xylene) - 100 unit
Mineral Oil (or Diesel or Kerosene) - 25 unit
ATF (Automatic Transmission Oil) - 5 units
And added 20 Oz of it to almost empty tank and then put gas on it.
Zoom Zoom!! Car drives awesome. On 2000 RPM on plain/flat road car goes easily 47 MPH !! (This is my way of comparing engines performance!! To see how fast it goes in an special RPM, normally 2000).
I calculated my gas mileage and it became 29 MPG in normal city traffic!!