For those who have the technical expertise, I have found this link which gives
a detail analysis of the possible causes and solutions for the P1195 code issue.
Unfortunately, for me I am not very automobile tech savvy. However, I am
willing to learn. Here is the link: milleniatech.net - P1195

 

Don't forget to check the vacuum hoses for obstructions. the nipple for the EGR sensor vacuum hose can be blocked by carbon deposits. Check with a stiff wire.
Did you check the EGR port holes ?

 

Oh by the way, I replaced the PCV not the EGR Valve. What should I use to clean the obstruction from the EGR sensor vacuum hose? I notice the light went off briefly when I disconnected the negative battery wire and pressed down on the break for a few seconds but the light and the P1195 code returned.

 

Duh..... you mentioned using a stiff wire. Just want to let you know, I can read ..... Duh !

 

o.k. buddy you can read!
Now read again: you need to clean the nipple for the vacuum hose. The hose is probably clean enough.

I replaced all my vacuum hoses because rubber gets hard and starts leaking and that can cause all kinds of CEL codes. It is cheap too, you can buy it by the foot. That's trouble shooting with the shot gun.

 

To answer your previous question: Did you check the EGR port holes? No ! But, now that you have mentioned it a few times, I will clean the nipples for vacuum hose as well as check the EGR port holes. Will see what that does. I have checked Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, Oreilly's and they all want $350 - 400 bucks for the booster/MAP sensor. The Pull a Part and salvage yards don't have any sensors. It seems like the junk yard vultures devour all the sensors within minutes the vehicles have been dropped off at sights. I am currently in between work. The cash flow is extremely low. Therefore, I will try anything to save money. I need to get this vehicle to pass the emission test. I am really amazed with this vehicle. It has over 200,000 miles. If it was not for the code P1195 engine light issue - oh yeah - and a slight squeaking of the pulley belt, the car pretty much has no problems. It rides extremely well and has no oil leaks of any kind. I feel this car could last another 100,000 miles if properly maintained. Once I start working again, I could see easily see myself purchasing a new Mazda. Thanks for your response Tanprotege.

 

Thanks, Denny. I like the way you approach this thing. The prices for the EGR boost sensors are outrageous!
P1195 stands for error in fuel/air metering control and it often relates to that EGR Boost Sensor. So far we focused on the vacuum signal. But it could also be a electrical wiring issue. Either external: the wires between the ECU and the sensor, or internal: the circuit inside the sensor could be bad.
So go ahead and check the external wiring. I am sure you have a multimeter.
You can check out the Haynes Manual at your local public library. You can also go to Carsurvey.org and read my entry and the comments on '98 protege: a lovely runner.
It is very detailed and dollar savvy.
If your EGR boost sensor has an internal problem I would not buy a new sensor. Your car runs but it pollutes a little more than usual. Check E-bay and Car-Part.com.

Good luck to you and I hope your cash flow improves shortly!

 

Well, Tanprotege, I finally had a chance to check and clean the nipples of the vacuum holes as well as the EGR port holes. Now, mind you, for the past few gas fill ups I have been putting fuel injection cleaning fluid into the gas tank in hopes of getting rid of any excess carbon build up, so after sticking a wire into the hose and cleaning the nipples,
I proceeded to start the vehicle. First thing I noticed, the check engine light still brightly lit on the dash board. So, I pull out my handy dandy OBD II, plug it in, and the code reads P1195. So, I proceed to erase the code........ and viola..... the engine light goes off. I just returned from downtown and the engine light has remained OFF ! Therefore, your suggestion worked. This makes me wonder the following at the
following;

The oil which appeared in my resonator may have cause carbon to build up in the engine.
The dime size hole in the pipe leading to the muffler (which initially caused the check engine light to turn and I repaired) may have caused carbon build in the engine.

By doing the following:
Repairing the hole in the muffler pipe.
Cleaning the nipples, vacuum hose and EGR ports of carbon build up.
Utilizing fuel injection fluid to clean out the system.

I was able to get that darn check engine light off. The car now runs amazingly quiet and smooth. It has tremendous pick up on the highway and when I am at a stop sign
you can't tell that the car is on. Mind you, this car now has over 202,000 miles on it
Thanks Tanprotege, you have made me realize that the booster/map sensor is fine. The
problem was carbon build up. Thanks again.

 

Oh by the way, I did mention I replaced the booster sensor. This sensor which I purchased at Pull a Part for about $20 (when they had sensors) I briefly used but I had replaced it with my original map/booster sensor when the check light returned in Sept. 2011. My original map/booster sensor is currently in my vehicle.

 

You are welcome, dennypooh. I am glad it worked for you.

I think people, including mechanics, quickly jump to conclusions and replace expensive parts instead of looking what keeps the part from working. That's why I like to clean and reuse. And you confirmed that is the right way!

Wishing you well!

Tan