ERG Valve Puzzler
#1
ERG Valve Puzzler
1996 Protégé, 1.5 DOHC
My emissions inspection kicked codes P1196 & P0400. The "check engine" light has been on for a while and I have taken it to 2 shops prior to inspection.... both shops told me the ERG valve needed replacing and they would order it. Neither shop "could find one" so after inspection failed I went to the parts house and their "Order Now " clicking fingers are itching.... they have it, can you imagine?!
Before ordering a $135 valve and $15 gasket to do it myself I decided to try and make sure this was the problem because I got the feeling that the guys at the shops were not really sure that replacing the valve would solve the problem and this may be the reason they had a hard time finding the valve. The inspection station doesn't do this work, just oil and lube, and they told me that they could have kicked the code for the ERG valve but that it could be something else that was associated with the valve.
Anyway, here is what I have done along with my question:
I can not manually check the valve by pushing up on the bottom of the housing as I read you could do with some other car models. So I went to the vacuum system. I am getting no vacuum in or out of the valve. So I checked the lines and made sure they were clear and they were.
Next I rigged a hose so I could suck on the inlet side while the engine is off and I could hear the sound of or it sounded like a valve opening and closing. But when I started the car and sucked on the vacuum line it did not stall the engine as I read it should do but again that was a different model of car.
Below I use the term sensor because I don't know what else they could be as they have electrical wires going to them and vacuum lines but they don't look like solenoids.
Next I traced the lines for suction to see how far vacuum was being pulled. The vacuum line goes from the vacuum manifold (before ever getting to the ERG Valve) to sensor #1 and from there to another sensor right beside it and then to the valve. These 2 sensors look to be mounted on the same plate but are different parts as there is a little jumper vacuum hose from sensor #1to sensor #2. From the ERG Valve outlet side the vacuum hose goes to anther sensor module mounted on the firewall.
I am getting suction to sensor #1 and there it stops there. As I said I don't know what this part is as the only things there are 1 line in and one line out (going to the sensor next to it) and a small wiring harness connection. It looks like an unnecessary as it appears the vacuum just goes thru it to the next sensor but I am sure it serves a purpose.
So this is where the vacuum stops. I tried to by-pass these 2 sensors and get suction straight to the ERG Valve but the "check engine Light" stays on.
Actually I have3 questions.....First, will the system have to be reset to get the light to go off and inspection to pass? If so how do youdo a reset on this? ( I would like to know howa reset is done)Do you think that by this first sensor not passing vacuum thru is the problem because when I sucked directly thru the ERG valve nothing happened.
Last, should I just go ahead and replace the valve?
If it was a $20 part I wouldn't ask but $150 after I have already put another $500 into her to get her ready for inspection will call for "Plastic" as funds are low. And if the valve isn't the problem I can't take it back plus there will be other parts.
Before I post I want to say thanks for having this site. I am new her and I accidentallystumbled onto it and glad I did as I had no idea a site for Mazda's existed. From what I have read here you folks know a lot more than I do and are friendly about sharing info. This is my 3rd Mazda and there will be a 4th as all the others had more than 200,000 miles and this one is at 190,000.....so I am a believer.....but ready to pull my hair out.
Thanks,
k4lop
(Gerry)
My emissions inspection kicked codes P1196 & P0400. The "check engine" light has been on for a while and I have taken it to 2 shops prior to inspection.... both shops told me the ERG valve needed replacing and they would order it. Neither shop "could find one" so after inspection failed I went to the parts house and their "Order Now " clicking fingers are itching.... they have it, can you imagine?!
Before ordering a $135 valve and $15 gasket to do it myself I decided to try and make sure this was the problem because I got the feeling that the guys at the shops were not really sure that replacing the valve would solve the problem and this may be the reason they had a hard time finding the valve. The inspection station doesn't do this work, just oil and lube, and they told me that they could have kicked the code for the ERG valve but that it could be something else that was associated with the valve.
Anyway, here is what I have done along with my question:
I can not manually check the valve by pushing up on the bottom of the housing as I read you could do with some other car models. So I went to the vacuum system. I am getting no vacuum in or out of the valve. So I checked the lines and made sure they were clear and they were.
Next I rigged a hose so I could suck on the inlet side while the engine is off and I could hear the sound of or it sounded like a valve opening and closing. But when I started the car and sucked on the vacuum line it did not stall the engine as I read it should do but again that was a different model of car.
Below I use the term sensor because I don't know what else they could be as they have electrical wires going to them and vacuum lines but they don't look like solenoids.
Next I traced the lines for suction to see how far vacuum was being pulled. The vacuum line goes from the vacuum manifold (before ever getting to the ERG Valve) to sensor #1 and from there to another sensor right beside it and then to the valve. These 2 sensors look to be mounted on the same plate but are different parts as there is a little jumper vacuum hose from sensor #1to sensor #2. From the ERG Valve outlet side the vacuum hose goes to anther sensor module mounted on the firewall.
I am getting suction to sensor #1 and there it stops there. As I said I don't know what this part is as the only things there are 1 line in and one line out (going to the sensor next to it) and a small wiring harness connection. It looks like an unnecessary as it appears the vacuum just goes thru it to the next sensor but I am sure it serves a purpose.
So this is where the vacuum stops. I tried to by-pass these 2 sensors and get suction straight to the ERG Valve but the "check engine Light" stays on.
Actually I have3 questions.....First, will the system have to be reset to get the light to go off and inspection to pass? If so how do youdo a reset on this? ( I would like to know howa reset is done)Do you think that by this first sensor not passing vacuum thru is the problem because when I sucked directly thru the ERG valve nothing happened.
Last, should I just go ahead and replace the valve?
If it was a $20 part I wouldn't ask but $150 after I have already put another $500 into her to get her ready for inspection will call for "Plastic" as funds are low. And if the valve isn't the problem I can't take it back plus there will be other parts.
Before I post I want to say thanks for having this site. I am new her and I accidentallystumbled onto it and glad I did as I had no idea a site for Mazda's existed. From what I have read here you folks know a lot more than I do and are friendly about sharing info. This is my 3rd Mazda and there will be a 4th as all the others had more than 200,000 miles and this one is at 190,000.....so I am a believer.....but ready to pull my hair out.
Thanks,
k4lop
(Gerry)
#2
RE: ERG Valve Puzzler
OK, first let's go over the codes. The P0400 is an EGR flow malfunction code. Possible causes could be, EGR valve malfunction, EGR Boost sensor malfunction, EGR boost sensor solenoid malfunction, valve position sensor, or a clog anywhere in the line. Not much help there. You list the second code as P1196, butI do not believe this is correct. I believe the correct code is P1195 which is an EGR boost sensor malfunction. This may be pointing us in a direction.
Follow the link below. This was very helpful to me when troubleshooting the same problem I had.
https://www.mazdaforum.com/m_36162/mpage_2/key_/tm.htm
I would start here first. It is not the easiest thing to do. It took me a couple of hours and I knew what I was doing, But it is cheaper than having a TECH do it. I got some cheap carb cleaner from Wal-mart (a couple of cans) and set of belt picks from Radio Shack. When restarting the car, it may be hard starting. Treat it as if it was flooded. Hold the pedal down while starting until it runs on it's own.
However, that did not completely solve my problem. I cleared the code, and it came back in couple of days, so I ended up going to a boneyard, and getting the whole EGR boost sensor and solenoid. They charged me a whole $5. Here is the trick, if you call the junkyard, they are just going to blow you off because they don't want to be bothered. But if you show up on their doorstep, they will usually let you pick it off yourself, so bring tools. It is nice to practice on their car and not yours.
Either way, you are going to have to do the cleanup first, even if you do end up having to replace the EGR valve.
Clearing the code. You should be able to do it by pulling the Positive battery cable for a couple of minutes, but you take a chance of hurting the other electronics, ECM, etc. The link below is the tool to do it the right way.
http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16298
I paid $65 at Autozone.
I also have a mazda shop manual, which is more helpful with figuring the codes than the little disc that comes with the tool. I can scan pages if you want.
Good luck
Follow the link below. This was very helpful to me when troubleshooting the same problem I had.
https://www.mazdaforum.com/m_36162/mpage_2/key_/tm.htm
I would start here first. It is not the easiest thing to do. It took me a couple of hours and I knew what I was doing, But it is cheaper than having a TECH do it. I got some cheap carb cleaner from Wal-mart (a couple of cans) and set of belt picks from Radio Shack. When restarting the car, it may be hard starting. Treat it as if it was flooded. Hold the pedal down while starting until it runs on it's own.
However, that did not completely solve my problem. I cleared the code, and it came back in couple of days, so I ended up going to a boneyard, and getting the whole EGR boost sensor and solenoid. They charged me a whole $5. Here is the trick, if you call the junkyard, they are just going to blow you off because they don't want to be bothered. But if you show up on their doorstep, they will usually let you pick it off yourself, so bring tools. It is nice to practice on their car and not yours.
Either way, you are going to have to do the cleanup first, even if you do end up having to replace the EGR valve.
Clearing the code. You should be able to do it by pulling the Positive battery cable for a couple of minutes, but you take a chance of hurting the other electronics, ECM, etc. The link below is the tool to do it the right way.
http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16298
I paid $65 at Autozone.
I also have a mazda shop manual, which is more helpful with figuring the codes than the little disc that comes with the tool. I can scan pages if you want.
Good luck
#4
RE: ERG Valve Puzzler
Hello,
I am very sorry to be so late but I wanted to thank you for your advice. I haven't been able to complete the things you advised me of yet but as soon as I do I will let youknow how it went.
Again, thanks,
Gerry
I am very sorry to be so late but I wanted to thank you for your advice. I haven't been able to complete the things you advised me of yet but as soon as I do I will let youknow how it went.
Again, thanks,
Gerry
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