Noise sounds like I cast a fishing line and reeling it back in
#1
Noise sounds like I cast a fishing line and reeling it back in
I had the timing belt and valve cover gasket replaced a little over 2 years ago. After that work was done, I drove another 39K miles, then started to hear a "spinning reel" or winding noise from the passenger side near the belts, only for a minute or two when I started the engine. About 2 weeks ago its become persistent, and I hear the same noise all the time, whether in neutral or in gear, tends to be a little louder in the morning when I first start the engine. A mechanic took a quick look under the hood and said when he pressed on the timing belt cover, it changed the pitch of the noise and thinks it could be a bad belt job. I called the original mechanic who did the work and he told me the warranty is for 24K miles or 2 years. Does that sound right? I thought timing belts were supposed to last 50K miles. The part was a Gates Timing Belt Kit TCK228. Thoughts?
#3
Timing belt tensioner bearing or the idler bearing
Thanks for your response. How long will those last before I have to get them tightened up? Any idea what a job like that will cost? I already sunk nearly $700 to get the new timing belt installed.
Also, anyone know what the dealer recommended replacement time/mileage is for the timing belt in a 2003 Protege LX 2.0L?
Also, anyone know what the dealer recommended replacement time/mileage is for the timing belt in a 2003 Protege LX 2.0L?
#4
Most likely the replacement period is 5yrs or 100,000kms ( 60,000 miles )
Have you been back to the garage who did the initial work? Maybe they can come to the party & discount the repair if they didn't replace these pulley bearings If they are in fact the cause of your issues.
To replace the tensioner pulley & idler pulley requires a full strip down of the cambelt.
I wouldn't put a time on their life, if they seize, then it could be pistons against valves.
Have you been back to the garage who did the initial work? Maybe they can come to the party & discount the repair if they didn't replace these pulley bearings If they are in fact the cause of your issues.
To replace the tensioner pulley & idler pulley requires a full strip down of the cambelt.
I wouldn't put a time on their life, if they seize, then it could be pistons against valves.
#5
Thanks again for responding. The last place I will take my car is back to the garage that did the faulty work. Those rip-off artists didn't bother telling me my spark plugs and ignition wires were toast - they were no doubt waiting for my car to break down so I would be forced to tow it back and give them another opportunity to rip me off for another $1000. When I take the car to a new mechanic, I'll have them confirm the first mechanic did faulty work and report it to every consumer agency that will make the complaint public.
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