I'm in the market for a "daily driver" for when the snow isn't flying and I don't need my truck, a guy at work has a '98 Protege LX with the 1.5L, 5 speed for a grand, which is pretty cheap around here.

It does have some small issues. It has an idle problem, so I hooked my laptop up to it with my OBD2 software and it's tossing code P0505. He said his mechanic looked at it and replaced everything but the air idle control valve. I picked one up off E-bay so that's in the mail. I'm planning on doing plugs, plug wires, cap, rotor, and fuel filter and cleaning the MAF. Anything else I should replace/clean to make this thing run a little smoother? EGR? It has 116k on it.

I also need to tackle getting the rear defrost to work, which I hope won't be too much of a pain, and the interior needs a serious detailing, but that can wait I guess. It's pretty gutless but I hope that I can at least do a few little things to make it handle nicer like a rear swaybar, a good alignment, etc.

 

howdy!

i drive a '98 lx on a daily basis, and i have had my share of issues with her. about 5k ago, i had to replace both CV joints, which is hear is a common issue with these cars.

and i, too, have a idle problem with mine, and i am fairly convinced that it is caused by the MAF sensor. occasionally, she will idle low, shake pretty bad, or completely stall out. and, about once every couple weeks, she will jerk back, almost like i'm tapping the brakes, while i am at about 25% throttle. usually, that is followed closely by the check-engine light that is almost always the MAF sensor.

if it hasnt already been done, i'd replace the MAF sensor on your friend's car to see if that fixes the idle problem before trying to replace the IAC valve.

hope this helps!

rick

 

I plugged my Laptop into it with my OBD2 cable and it's showing the air idle control circuit. According to the guy I bought it from his mechanic changed everything else but the idle control motor due to the cost.

I picked up a working condition used unit so I'm going to swap it out. It seems pretty complicated for an idle control motor, it has a coolant circuit going through it even for some reason. I normally work on Chrysler vehicles and their idle control is a simple stepper motor with a pintle tip that costs about $35. The Mazda one cost $315 from Napa. Sheesh. The stupid little gasket for it is next to impossible to find as well, no local parts stores carry it, I had to find it online.

I also picked up some MAF cleaner, new plug wires, plugs, cap, rotor, PCV valve and grommet, and fuel filter. I'm going to swap it all out, I figure this should get it to run pretty smooth.

Note that the idle control unit apparently carbons up a lot, so it might be worthwhile to pull yours and take some brake cleaner and a wire brush to yours to clean the gunk out. Same with the EGR from what I've read.

CV joints seem ok, but the car only has 116k on it.

Thanks!

M.B.