Hi, my 1997 Protégé DX with 1.5L engine started to fail and misfire a lot. I suspect it's a distributor/ignition coil problem. It's ignition coil is built in a distributor: Mitsubishi part # BP1A / T2T60371. The primary and secondary coil resistance values of this particular model are not listed in my Chilton manual.

Does anyone have a service manual or knows coil resistance values for this particular ignition distributor?

Thank you very much in advance.

 

from the hayne´s book: ignition coil resistance (cold) primary=.49 to .73 ohms. secondary=20 to 31k ohms.

 

Check if there is oil getting into the bottom part of the distributor. There is an O-ring that can fail. The oil can mess with the built in cam position sensor.
Clean, replace the o-ring , try again.
I bought a Cardone from Rock-Auto last year, about $200. My old one still worked (yes, my mistake!) and I still have it.

Tell us how it goes.

 

Thank you for the info. I took it apart and it seemed to be fairly clean. I don't think sensor was affected with dirt or oil. When I measured coil resistances directly they measured 0.7 Ohms and 24.4 kOhms. So, coils seem to be fine, but I can't measure anything from its connector pins (when assembled). Does Haynes manual say what's the testing procedure?

I found one other workshop manual online and it said I should measure 20-31 kOhms between one of the connector pins (it has a single 7-pin connector) and the body. It shows open loop or several MegaOhms between each pin and the body. Could the control circuit be damaged?

There are few options for used/rebuilt/new ones on ebay too, but I'd like to be certain mine is bad before getting a replacement.

Thank you for your help again.

 

This is from just Answers related to a '98 Protege. I think they are the same:


Expert: Amedee replied 3 years ago.
Hello!

New Expert here!

Lets try to test or check the inputs going into the ignition coil. Maybe you just have a bad ignition Ignition coil. First thing to do is check to see if the coil has power with the key in the on position. You can use a test light or a voltmeter.
Next step would be to see if its getting a ground signal trigger. This is done with a test light. But only you would hook it up backwards. Hook the alligator clip of the test light and hook it to battery positive, and take the tip of the test light and touch it the signal wire of the coil. (If you need a diagram let me know). The test light should blink when cranking over the engine if its getting a signal (look close because the test light will flicker very dim).

Source:http://www.justanswer.com/car/3an3t-...stributor.html

 

Thanks. I'll install the distributor on my car tonight and will try to test it.

 

haynes book: terminals A-B resistance is the primary coil. secondary winding is from terminal G to distributor body. keep in mind that is a static (engine cold) check. clean the plug contacts. usually, if you have spark, the coil is good but once they warm up and the motor is running, the coil gets erratic because it is a little stressed. then you do a static check and it tests good. if rotor and cap are good, no vacuum leaks, spark plugs are new and gapped, and the injectors are good and timing is good.. then, well, i would try a new coil or a known good used coil (specially if the coil in the car is old).

 

I'm little puzzled at this point:

I don't get any resistance measurements from connector terminals. Neither from terminal G to distributor body nor from A-B terminals. In both cases I get "Open Loop" reading on my digital multimeter.

I installed the distributor on my car and it started just fine. I didn't hear any misfires and didn't have time to drive it around. I couldn't measure voltages as wire sockets on the connector are very tight and don't allow me to insert my tester pin and I didn't want to ruin the connector. Besides, it was getting late and really cold outside. I might fiddle with it tomorrow again.

Thank you for the info and suggestions.

 

Try back probing the wires. I like to use sewing pins to puncture the insulation. Even smaller ones than these:

 

I'll probably try it tonight or tomorrow.

I tried driving my car around and it still has misfires, especially when I open throttle and load the engine (driving uphill). Very weak spark and can't detonate large amount of fuel/air mixture in the cylinder?...

Anyway, I'll try to post my findings when I get to my car again.