Ok, went and found another sensor at the boneyard..installed, pulled batt. cable to reset the ecm....lights off. I drove the whole day, no light at all....then as I am about to pull into the drive..the light returns, i get it checked...same code. I read your last post...pull hoses as listed and blow them out, for some reason there is no vaccuum at all on that hose coming from the egr block looking thing (that goes onto the solenoid) The lights back off now and we drove again all day...nothing, so the wife takes it to get it inspected...the tester says it keeps firing a "not ready" code ????? it does it 3 times then they cant test it....this has me completely baffled. No light, no nothing, car runs fine....but I still cant get it inspected.
Could that port be so plugged up its not giving vacuum and causing all this ? I am at my wits end and after 3 trips to have this thing inspected im sure my wife is getting close to clubbing me....

 

If no vacuum was found to the solenoid at the vacuum hose from the engine then the port is clogged up with carbon right at the EGR valve. The EGR valve is located just under the throttle body area. Will post up a couple of pics as soon as I can. Had a 95 with 1.5 engine last Thursday that was setting a P0400 code. Ended up have multiple problems contributing to this code but one of them was completely clogged up port at the EGR valve. I used a 3/32" drill bit and worked perfect.
Keep in mind also that once the initial problem is fixed and the CEL is turned back off or codes cleared that the vehicle will need to be driven quite a bit in order to pass the various system checks of EGR, EVAP, CATALYST, O2 AND O2 HEATER.

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Faraway pic of EGR to give idea of where it is located. Did not even need to remove the throttle body as it would have meant draining the coolant. Just unplug 3 connectors and lay it aside.

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Marked the line to remove and port that needs cleaned with yellow paint.

 

Would I need to remove the EGR to clean this clog out or is there a way to do it on the car ?
Also I sent the wife to our local Mazda dealer for a "drive cycle list" to figure out how to reset these parameters once the EGR is fixed....they have no idea what we're talking about and refused to help any.
Is there somewhere I can find this list online ?

 

Yes you could do the cleaning or drilling out of the port in the car. I removed only because I also had clogged passages between the EGR and throttle body. Plenty of room to work in there with the air cleaner top housing and throttle body removed.
Mazda did not introduce diagnostic drive modes untill 1997. I guess they did figure they would be needed. Hope these pics from 1997 Protege shop manual will help. If they do no come out very clear then see if the dealer will copy pages 01-01A-4 thru 01-01A-6 of 97 manual. Do not know if the drive modes will work on a 97 but probably should.

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This chart will probably not do you much good as you will have no tester that will be able to access if the drive mode has passed or not but thought would throw it in.

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When the directions tell you to hold a constant speed or rpm be as carefull as possible to be very steady. Mode 2 wants you to drive between 52-56 mph. Get speed at 54 and try not to waiver or will not run test.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/92835CB7183C4127A93C315B5D0FBCCE.jpg[/IMG]

 

Here is a different picture size so will hopefully be more readable.[:@]

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[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/12FEDF25105A490A832A9C1FE718BF46.jpg[/IMG]

 

Well I took the egr off and cleaned the ports, checked the tube, egr moves up and down by hand and after I reassembled I still cant any vaccuum from that port...is there another access to clean this thing out ? I used a dremel and apick and carb cleaner to clean out the egr and the ports on the intake, it looked pretty clean when I buttoned it up but once all back together there is no vacuum and you cant even blow into the tube...I guess its blocked up internally but I sure dont know how to access it and clean the blockage.
Thanks again for all the info BH, the pages you copied for me the dealer here in Houston didnt even know what I was talking about.

 

Sorry about the poor picture quality lethal. Our shop cam sucks for closeups. IF you have a fax # available to you then PM me with it and will fax you the pages from shop manual about the drive modes and will be much clearer. The dealer in Houston is either full of idiots or do not give a s**t. The internal ports of the EGR can look fine and still have a clogged port to the boost sensor. That vacuum line that was highlighted with yellow paint is the crucial one that needs to be cleaned out. Picks and cleaner will not do the job if it is carboned up badly. Hardens up like concrete. 3/32 drill bit right into the port where the vacuum line connects will clean it out and get vacuum back where you need it to be.

 

pm sent
thanks again.

 

I am having the same problem with a 1995 mellinia, 2.5. seems to me it is an electrical issue, not vacuum. The code gets set at key on, engine does not even have to be running. I have found plugged ports, etc, drilled them all out, tested solenoids, etc. checked key on 5.0 volt feed, all good, but still setting code.

 

Due to what just happened to me I would say double and tripple check all vacuum lines and hoses. I had a code calling out the MAF. Ouch... So, I got some MAF cleaner no help. Then used starter fluid and shot it around connections to see if RPM would change. No help. I started to pull off all my lines and hoses. Then I noticed a small tear in the intake hose at the bend. You know the hose from the air box that runs into the throttle body. It was at the bottom of the bend and it was compressed. I would have never found it if I did not remove the hose completely. I few wraps of duct tape for testing and that was the problem.... Like I tell the wife it's all about the sucking.... of air from the filter box that gives the zoom zoom some life....