EDIT: Forgot to mention that I unbolted the hood latch, pulled the radiator and ac condenser fans prior to this stuff.

Hey guys, first time on this forum. Apologies if this turns out to be a sloppy thread.

I'm only working on this tribute for a little while.. I pulled the engine and everything out so as to get to some flush-snapped exhaust header studs on both left and right heads and i'll prolly replace some gaskets while in there.. I realize I could have pulled both heads instead, but the cylinders all had good compression readings.. 163-165 after 3 cranks according to my gauge.

anyways, figured I'd post up some pics on a forum so my extra efforts were put to extra use! I took at least one after each bolt, connector, and hose I removed (been near 10 years since I pulled an engine so i wanted reminders), with the exception of wheels, brakes, maybe some primary subframe fasteners.. I pulled the assembly out of the bottom using 6 ton jack stands and suffice to say it was uncomfortable despite my precautions.

The engine, in accordance with the factory service manual I got preceding the job, is meant to be pulled along with the transmission, steering rack, subframe, out of the bottom of the car using a full vehicle lift wherein the vehicle is lifted off of the powertrain. It makes sense and would be super easy, but I don't have the means.
I would not recommend anyone else duplicate what I did (using jack stands) it's freakin dangerous. The following is the method I used for removal.. I'm including it because I could not find any instructional videos for the USDM FWD V6 that removed the engine from the bottom.

There's only one lifting point at the front middle, so I had to support the engine's oil pan with a jack, unbolt the upper engine and trans mounts, affix my engine hoist (utilizing the bolt holes for the passenger side engine mount and driver side tranny mount), raise the engine, remove the jack, install jack stands to prevent the subframe from swinging down onto my head, unbolt the subframe, exit and place jack under subframe, remove stands from under subframe, lower subframe.. then it took about 3 feet of lift in the front end to actually get the assembly shimmied out of the side..

Will follow with pictures. -- Aside from having to slide the hoist and assy. out sideways there were no issues excluding two exhaust nuts belonging to the flex pipe rounding out. They were later removed successfully with an extractor socket. no vehicle component was damaged/scraped/bent, no "modifications" were made to accomplish the task.

 

battery disconnected

Battery removed

Battery box removed (+ battery cable and something else affix to tabs on the battery box with christmas tree clips which I neglected to document)

Air box to TB rubber duct removed

 

Water pump pulley belt removed. Compressed tensioner with hand.

Throttle cable bracket getting unbolted!

Throttle cables coming off TB

Removing hoses from this smog whatsit. The marked hose gets to stay

Unbolting big fancy computer harness connector and ground wire firewall.

All of these hoses get disconnected! Drained the radiator first but it didn't help much. Although the service manual orders removal at this junction I suggest considering disconnecting them at different locations if possible to avoid draining coolant onto the engine and some electrical connectors which are mounted DIRECTLY BELOW COOLANT LINES. Tried my darndest to compensate with an abundance of shop towels.

 

Disconnecting the two big wires and one connector from the main relay box.

Unbolting and removing automatic transmission shift linkage. This was really tricky as it seems like to remove the cable end from where it attaches to the tranny should require a specialty tool like a extra small fuel line quick disconnect Will elaborate with following pics

Here you can see the end of the shift linkage cable that goes onto a little rod/arm on the tranny. I had to pry the 3 little tabs with a tiny flat head in order to remove without causing damage. I struggled to find an image showing how this is held on, so I figured I'd provide it for you guys

This is the rod/arm that the shift cable snaps onto, just so you know what you're up against!

 

Removing some vac lines. the marked one can stay



Vac line popped out

On to power steering lines. I used a piece of cardboard to direct drainage off of the engine since I didn't want to hold it the whole time

 

Disconnected this big connector around where the battery would sit. vast majority of wiring goes up on the engine/trans

o2 sensor wire (the sensors can stay in)

Pic of its connector from a better angle

Other o2

Pic of its connector

Unbolted the power steering line

Serpentine coming off

Ac compressor connector

Ac compressor. Can be hung from the front passenger corner as you all likely know. I used utility wire available from advance auto, napa, and I just found out tractor supply sells it! Much nicer than working with zip-tys because it's cut to fit.

Trans cooler line

Little flex plate cover. This has a metal clip in it! careful not to rip it outta the rubber.


Updates will continue 😅 Though it seems like folks on this forum know a TON of stuff. I hope my contribution turns out to be of value