Originally Posted by tributeman

Hi Julian;

The diagnosis for a bad cruise control cable is that the "Cruise" light in the dashboard panel comes on while you are driving, but it does not maintain the speed. I doubt this is your problem because of how new the vehicle is. Mine took about 7 years of moderate use to wear out.

If you wanted to inspect it however, you will have to look in the engine compartment. The directions I am telling you is regards to 2001... look for a silver box that is mounted above the engine and to the left. This is the cruise control module. It has a black-sheathed cable that goes underneath the plastic "Mazda" cover on your engine. You have to remove the plastic cover to inspect further. Once you remove the plastic cover (3 or 4 nuts) you should be able to follow the cable to where it connects on the throttle body. If it's disconnected, then you need to replace the cable. A visual inspection won't reveal too much to the untrained eye, but trust me. It's disconnected for a reason... the retaining pin on the cable end has worn down just enough to not hold the cable onto the throttle body post.

With regards to the brake pedal switch... No doubt you will see that there are 2 switches on the actual brake pedal. One is the regular brake sensor, and the other is specifically for the cruise control. Unfortunately, the only way to depress the brake pedal enough to play with the switch "action" is to have the car running.... listen carefully to the 'clicking' sound of the switches when you toggle those switches.... check the cables to see if they are loose.

Just some advice, if you decide to keep her, get it rust-checked by Krown right away. I live in Newmarket, so I know you're probably a highway-guy like me. I hate driving my mazda through a liquid salt bath for 6 months out of the year. You probably have some rust build-up on the bottom of the lip of the door panel right now. Also, mazda built the front hood trim for the USA... it's plastic with 5 trim tabs. Be careful with closing the hood in cold weather! Mine snapped off... i had to epoxy it back on after a good cleaning. The dealership wants like 150 bucks for a new part!

Originally Posted by gerco

I'm back and with some good news
...he said when the brake booster is changed there are two switches behind the brake pedal, one is for brake light and the other for cruise...

Originally Posted by babyhuey

Hi Scott.
So you suspect that the dealership has caused this problem after replacement of the coolant bottle?
Bulb check using the key on and holding reset button will not illuminate the cruise light by the way.
Check and make sure that the cruise control cable is attached to the throttle body linkage. Have seen some of the cable ends break in this area and not stay attached.
If that checks ok and the 5 amp #5 and 15 amp #24 fuse in the dash fuse box are ok then down to checking some voltages at the cruise actuator/module. Would need to have access to a digital volt/ohms meter and could give you some voltage readings to look for. This would help tell you if the on/off and set signals are actually even getting to the cruise unit.

Originally Posted by gajdm04

Hi babyhuey, I realise this thread is quite old, I am having/had all the same issues with my tribute. Now the Cruise control is not working.
YTou sound like you have quite extensive experience with the model, so wondered if you could help (or anyone else for that matter)?
Have replaced the Brake Booster a few years ago, and ever since that day the cruise control does not work. I have checked:

Fuses (#5 & #24) - all good
Throttle body cable - all good
Switches on the brake pedal - making contact - all good
Checked voltage going to the CC unit. Whilst it was low, there was a reading... is this bad?
I have noticed that when the ignition is on, all the lights come on except for the "Cruise" light - what does this mean?

Do I need to re-set something?

What could be wrong? and what else could I do, before handing cash over to an auto electrician?

Look forward to hearing from you.