Hi Forum, does anyone have a diagram for the brake booster and vacuum line 2006 V6 auto tribute. My vehicle didn’t pass the safety brake test and mechanic said it could be a leak in the vac line. I have checked vac line and can’t find a leak, however I will replace that to eliminate that problem.
Can anyone else recommend what else to check. TIA

 

This post now shows all the vac connections!

I can pull the air box and battery tomorrow to show you more of the routing from the 03 3.0 Tribute I've got. I took and colored a picture for yuh. It's pretty high-def, so you should be able to zoom in.


This picture was taken with the upper intake manifold unbolted and held up a few inches in my hand. The view is from underneath (stuck the phone under to get the shot), but it shows the 4th port I refer to. Right behind the throttle body.




The brake booster is straight forward, at least in the engine bay.
There are 4 vac lines on the upper intake manifold/plenum. The right-most and largest in the group of 3 I left uncolored. It runs to the PCV valve underneath the intake manifold and fuel rail. It's annoying, to say the least.

The red line is the transmission vent (which just terminates open on a bracket below the throttle body), the white one runs from the EVAP vapor management valve to the 4th port on the upper intake, just behind the throttle body.
The tricky one is the one I marked blue. It has several T connections. It runs from the cabin to that canister below the computer, has a check valve, to the upper intake, to the EVAP vapor management valve (the little can with 3 hoses off to the driver's side of the engine bay,) to two ports on the EGR vacuum regulator (thing thing right behind the EGR), to the EGR, and terminates finally at the fuel pulse dampener (silver pancake, below throttle body).

EDIT: one note. The blue marked vac lines were glued onto the plastic fittings. If you remove them, make sure a chunk of the glue doesn't get trapped in the hoses or T connectors and cause an obstruction.

EDIT: added pictures of the rest of the vac line I marked as blue, now showing connection to the EVAP vapor management valve, EGR vacuum regulator, EGR, and finally the fuel pulse dampener.
Apologies for the engine bay looking a mess. Im in the middle of pulling the transmission, so stuff like the shift linkage, ect is in an above image. The blue dot vac lines are unaffected by present work and shown installed just as they would be if the engine was running. I would have taken bigger pictures, but since i'm not tech-savvy I handled the 10mb photo size limit by cropping.

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Thanks for that. Massive help. I have another question. My power steering fluid is getting low reasonably quick, is it possible there is a leak in the brake booster.

 

Going to post up more vac line pictures a little later, just for whoever. The Mazda went back to its owner for a while, but it's back and the transmission needs to come out!

As for your question, I'm not aware of an interaction between the power steering system and the brake booster. Power steering fluid just runs to the steering rack and back to the reservoir/pump, and those two locations should be the only areas at which it has potential to leak unless a hardline is damaged by something like a car accident. I've seen manufacturers run power steering lines up in front of the radiator/ac condenser/trans cooler, but they just double back and go to the steering rack without connecting to anything extra. I suppose they need just a little air cooling when a car is moving at higher speeds, but not enough to actually merit a condenser of their own.

I'll be starting work on the Tribute Wednesday or Thursday, depending on if I have any trouble with the Escape Hybrid I'm presently awaiting parts for. I can take some pictures then of the steering system and look over it for potential leak points.

If you feel that the system is leaking I would recommend starting your inspection at the vertically highest indication of leakage and working your way down (cuz gravity).

 

Thank you again for your time and reply.

if I may start from the beginning:

my car went to mechanic for a safety. They said when the car starts the vacuum dosnt pull the brake pedal in. So he said check the vacuum line isn’t leaking. I pulled it off and found it was blocked.

now when I drive and more so in cruise control, my brake pedal gets stiff and I really have to push to engage the brakes.

also when I have aircon on or hard turn left or right, my car stalls and sometimes won’t start.

any help to fix this issue.

mechanic said may be a leak in brake booster. That’s why I mentioned it earlier

 

Does the vacuum hose have a check valve built in

 

From what you've said so far it does sound like your brake booster is faulty, and that the vacuum leak is affecting your engine's ability to run well. It sounds like the air conditioning and power steering systems are causing your vehicle to stall not because they are directly affected by engine vacuum (they are not to my knowledge,) but because they are adding additional load to your engine via their pulleys and that is overwhelming it.

My apologies, I have a hard time thinking clearly some days and am struggling to articulate what I think is going on. If the above paragraph is unclear I can try again, just let me know.

There are two check-valves in the vacuum system that I am aware of. One can be found here:

It is glued inline with the vacuum hose, but is removable.

The other check valve is the PCV valve which is located on top of the engine, beneath the intake manifold, injector wiring, and the fuel rails.

I do have some questions I'd like to ask about your fault.. Does the stalling occur only at low rpms/idle?
Also, is the engine's idle affected by your pressing the brake pedal?

EDIT: I have not personally diagnosed or disassembled a brake booster, so I do not feel qualified to say with certainty that it is the problem. It does interact with engine vacuum and as such has potential to negatively affect idle/function, but there are a number of things that can affect engine vacuum. I will be posting a picture/pictures of the remaining vacuum line connection points and would feel relieved if they were verified as being correct before replacing any parts.

I will also add that in order to verify that the vacuum lines on this car were not obstructed I used utility wire purchasable at a local auto parts store like Napa, ect. and disconnected each section of smaller hose as needed to fish the wire through said hose and out of each opening. I am not saying you have to do that or that you should go about it the same way, it's just how I managed.

 

Yes it does stall on low idle and yes it sometimes does stall
when I put the brake on

 

Sorry about the delay. whole family got sick and I've been playing nurse. I'll post up the rest of the vac lines tomorrow for sure. If they're all verified correct, not leaky, and you can blow through them, yeah, i'd go ahead and replace the booster.

 

Not a problems

do you know how to do a power steering flush.