2001 Mazda Tribute 3.0L - Hard Idle when vehicle is cold. Rpm's jumping around. Replaced spark plugs,coils,Idle Air Control Valve. Next I want to try the lower intake manifold gaskets. Has anyone replaced the gaskets and where could I purchase online?

 

Herna,
You can purchase a full set for $9.99 at Advanceautoparts.com. It contains both the uper and lower intake mainfold gaskets, and the idle control valve gaskets. Always good to have spares. did you change the upper intake mainfold gaskets when you installed the new plugs and coils? If not change them too. They are accessed from underneath the intake maifold and removed by using a pointy pick or needle nose pliers to pull them out. The new ones just push back in. From this point it is easy to remove the maifolds and install the lower gaskets. I would replace the PVC valve as a preventative maintenience measure, since it is much easier to access when you have these items off. You can also get it from the same site for about $18. Just bought all this stuff this last week. Got all six coils on ebay on ebay for $68, and platinum plugs from Pep Boys Auto for $1.50 on sale and also got a mail in rebate for another $1.50, so the plugs were free. Good luck with your project.

 

Would you know the part number for the PVC Valve? I have the upper and lower intake manifold gasket and going to attempt to replace them this weekend. Another issue I came across is the oil light flickering. Oil was replaced 300 miles ago and oil level is good. Today I change the oil pressure switch at work, hoping to solve this issue. But no luck as i arrived home it started flickering again.

 

I tried to reply several times,but it kept saying I needed to log in, which I had already done, and each time the message was lost.

The Ford part number is: 2L5Z 6A666 BA which replaced YF1Z 6A. I had to get it from the dealer and no one else had it in stock. Let me know if your resolve your flickering oil light problem. I plan to replace my oil pressure switch tomorrow, 'weather permitting". You might check the wire to make sure it is not damaged, or has a bad connection. I would use some diaelectric grease on the connector to help keep moisture, corrosion, and oil out. Let me know if you come up with a solution that works. It seems to be a common problem, but there seems to be a lot of mixed results with the repairs. Good Luck!

 

I had to ordered the switch (Part # W0133-1815206) from AutoPartsWarehouse.com which was $27.95 with $5.50 shipping. Auto-zone, Napa Auto Parts, and O'Reilly Auto Parts all had the wrong part for the 2001 Mazda Tribute 3.0L. The thread size should be 3/8. They all carry the 1/4 thread size. Just a heads up for those in Southern California.

 

Drove my Mazda around town today, and no oil pressure light came on. Just yesterday I replaced the sensor, but like i stated earlier when getting home it started to flicker. Today no flickering. So at this point I am either just confused or there is a bad connection somewhere. Going to take your advice Slantnose and check all connections and use some diaelectric grease on the connector,

 

The problem is solved!!! Changed the lower and upper manifold gaskets, using the Chilton repair manual and within a few hours, problem fixed. Next task changing the coolant.

 

Changed mine last weekend. Every place had the wrong part listed in the computer. I returned the one I got and went to the Ford Dealer with the one I removed. He had the wrong part listed in the computer as well. It is 1/2 " threads, not 1/4" or 3/8" as I have seen mentioned before. The Dealer was able to locate the correct part number, which is located on the metal part of the switch, where a rench would go. It begins with BB on one side, and the rest of the number on the other side. He had to order it, but had it the next business day. I had a mechanic/friend test the oil pressure, and it showed 60 -70 psi, at 800 to 900 rpm. A minimum of 45 psi, at 800 rpm is needed, so we were looking good. We installed the new switch and all seemed fine until the engine ran for 1/2 hour while driving, and then it came back on. We hooked a Snap On code reader, and not trouble codes were showing. The mechanic noted that when the rpm's dropped to below 750 rpms the light would flicker, but above that it would go out. The rpm's shown on the car's gauge, show the rpms, lower than the actually are, so you need something that is more accurate. We checked the wiring for damage as best we could, and did use the dielectric grease on the connector. We determined that the idle just needs to be advanced about 50 rpm to make the light go out. We have eliminated the possibilty of any engine damage, or low pressure, and the light only comes on when the idle drops, which I have noted it doesn't always do, even when the engine is hot. Does anyone know if there is a manual adjustment that can be made to increase the idle speed???