Went to the dealer today and they tried to charge me $1,000 for new rotors and pads all around. 2006 Tribute V6 (disc brakes all around)

I want to do this myself and hopefully spend about $200 total. A few questions:

1. Has anybody used PBR rotors? These are only $40 for front and $32 for rear. I don't need them to be great, but they do need to last another year and half and provide safe braking.
2. How difficult is the install on this car? I used to own a 2006 Subaru WRX and that was pretty simple. Does anybody have a writeup for the install?
3. Does anybody have a service manual for a 2006 Tribute that I can download electronically?

Thanks in advance for your help.

-Matt

 

I've managed to squeeze 60,000+ miles out of my original brakes and rotors, so I can't really answer your question. All I know is that $1000 for a brake job is a rip off. I doubt that you need four new rotors, especially the rears which wear at a slower rate.

 

I JUST replaced my front disc brakes on my 2004 Tribute. I got 51K on the original set-and I did need new pads. I bought OEM original from Mazda and they came with new springs. Mazda has two "grades'-original and economy. The original were $84(with springs) and the economy were $46. You will need a 7mm allen head socket. Here is what I did (for one side-duplicate for other side) (Note that I turned the steering wheel to the far left for the left side and right for the right side)
1. Jack up and block one side of front. Remove master cylinder cap and place a rag under (just in case fluid runs out when compressing wheel cylinder)
2. Remove front wheel.
3. Remove springs. This is done by just pulling the spring end out of each hole. This was easily done with a pair of pliers.
4. Using a small screwdriver Remove rubber plugs that cover the 7mm caliber bolts.
5. Using a 7mm allen socket with a short extension (this is needed for top bolt) loosed bolts. These bolts will not come completely out but you must make sure that they are screwed completely out from the holder. You can see these bolts and using that small screwdriver you can "push" these bolts away from the pad holder once you have completely screwed them out. (note that these bolts are available from Advance auto)
6. Push on the caliber in an effort to push the wheel cylinder in. Work the caliber off of the rotor holder. The INSIDE pad comes off with the caliber. Using a coat hanger rig the caliber so that it is NOT hanging by the brake lines.
7. Using a tool (I used a large set of channel locks with the inside pad still attached to the wheel cylinder) push the psiton ALL THE WAY into the caliber.
8. Pull the old inside pad off of the cylinder (there is a three prong clip built on to the brake pad).
9. Remove outside pad (mine had NO SHIMS on either pad).
10. Install outside pad on to the rotor holder. (Note that my new mazda pads had something already installed on the outside of the new pad -I had to remove sticky paper-therefore no grease was necessary
11. Install the inside pad onto the wheel cylinder by pushing the 3-prong clip that is part of the inside pad into the cylinder. CAUTION: make sure that all Three prongs are inside and are not damaging the piston.
12. Make sure that the two caliber bolts are "pushed back" so that they don't hang anything. Then remount the caliber with the new pads.
13. Start both caliber bolts and slightly snug.
14. Install the spring (The new springs provided by Mazda had a LOT more tension so i recommend you replace them. They are available seperately at Advance Auto). Installing the new spring is a little difficult but with pliers and screwdriver I had no problems. I also "tapped" both spring ends with a hammer to ensure they were seated.
15. Torque caliber bolts to 26 ft lbs.
16. Install caliber bolt rubber plugs.
17. Reinstall wheel and torque lugs (I use 100 ft lbs).
18. Repeat for other side
19. Check/adjust master cylinder level and reinstall cap.

Any questions email me
nucferr@yahoo.com