Will new struts improve ride?
#1
Will new struts improve ride?
Hello all,
I've owned my 2004 Tribute since new. One selling point I noticed when I compared both the Tribute and the Escape during a test drive was that the Escape had a harder ride. The Tribute definitely rode smoother than the Escape when new. Now, 65,000 Miles later, the ride is noticeably harder. The sway bar was replaced along with four new nitrogen filled tires but still the hard, jarring ride remains. A co-worker of mine has a 2007 Escape with similar highway miles yet the ride in his car seems smoother. Is it time to replace the original struts? Is this something a mechanically inclined person, with ratchet tools, can do in his garage? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You,
Bill Pa
I've owned my 2004 Tribute since new. One selling point I noticed when I compared both the Tribute and the Escape during a test drive was that the Escape had a harder ride. The Tribute definitely rode smoother than the Escape when new. Now, 65,000 Miles later, the ride is noticeably harder. The sway bar was replaced along with four new nitrogen filled tires but still the hard, jarring ride remains. A co-worker of mine has a 2007 Escape with similar highway miles yet the ride in his car seems smoother. Is it time to replace the original struts? Is this something a mechanically inclined person, with ratchet tools, can do in his garage? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank You,
Bill Pa
#2
I just did the shock/struts on my 2002 this fall. You need a spring compressor for the struts. You need penetrating oil for several of the nuts. I had a hard time getting the sway bar links off the struts due to rust and ended up replacing them too.
The screws on the shafts of the shocks/struts were rusted on a bit. This required a lot of torque along with using a large ChannelLock wrench on the lower part (in the wheel well) of the unit to keep it from turning. The plastic shroud over the shaft was cut off to get a good grip on the metal collar, otherwise the plastic slipped over the collar. This was a two-man effort.
The replacement units were all metal, no plastic shroud. I was able to hold on to the metal shroud with my hands while my son tightened the bolt from the top.
You need an Allen wrench to remove the mounting plate for the struts. You also need an offset box wrench (13/32 inch I think). Look in a Haynes manual for an illustration on how this is done. A plastic piece of the mounting plate was broken on one of the struts. I put it back in and hope that it stays in place.
You need to remove several plastic panels to get the rear shocks removed. You may break some tabs off in the process, especially the bottom horizontal piece covered by the rear gate.
Good Luck!
The screws on the shafts of the shocks/struts were rusted on a bit. This required a lot of torque along with using a large ChannelLock wrench on the lower part (in the wheel well) of the unit to keep it from turning. The plastic shroud over the shaft was cut off to get a good grip on the metal collar, otherwise the plastic slipped over the collar. This was a two-man effort.
The replacement units were all metal, no plastic shroud. I was able to hold on to the metal shroud with my hands while my son tightened the bolt from the top.
You need an Allen wrench to remove the mounting plate for the struts. You also need an offset box wrench (13/32 inch I think). Look in a Haynes manual for an illustration on how this is done. A plastic piece of the mounting plate was broken on one of the struts. I put it back in and hope that it stays in place.
You need to remove several plastic panels to get the rear shocks removed. You may break some tabs off in the process, especially the bottom horizontal piece covered by the rear gate.
Good Luck!
#3
To me, 65k doesn't sound like a lot for shocks/struts... not in today's world at least, but I guess that depends how you have been using the vehicle? And keep in mind also that like brake and clutch lining, shocks and struts begin to wear out the moment you start using them.
Are the OE struts blown? Is one of them blown? Does the car dive or bounce over rough roads? Does it favor one side in turns?
A replacement, performance or heavier sway bar should not affect the ride at all.
Tires are another matter entirely. They definately can affect ride quality. Different manufacturer's or even different models from the same manufacturer can have very different purposes and charactoristics in ride, handling, traction and braking. And it's not easy to decide what to use for your particular circumstances.
I have had 4 sets of tirwes on my 3 series and am only now happy with my tires. I have done tons of research on every set I have decided to buy, and still I was dissappointed in the first 3 sets.
Yes, most mechanically minded people can do shocks easily. Struts are a liitle more difficult, but not impossible. Many parts stores offer tool loan programs these days. You put a deposit down on the tool and when you return it (in good, unabused condition,) you get your money back. Spring compressors are probably the most loaned tool.
If looking into new shocks/struts and your goal is ride oriented, look for OE replacement or "twin-tube" replacements. These are what almost all vehicles come from the factory with. Mono-tubes are better for performance oriented vehicles.
If available for the Trib, and I don't know why they wouldn't be, KYB GR2's might be a good option for you.
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