2007 Mazda 3 I
I was installing aftermarket foglights in my car, so I decided to find the wire from the fuse box by the battery, I found bunch of wire where were not charged when the ignition OFF, so I turned the ignition ON and start checking the wire again to see which wire is now charged after ignition goes to ON position, (by that my DRL/FOG LED strip will remains on whenever I turn my car on) so I was checking wire one by one, then I thought I should turn the engine ON/start to prevent battery from discharging, I started the engine and kept checking wire, all of a sudden engine shuts off by it self, I went in try to start the car now it doesn't even crank, so I stop my project where it was, and start checking all the fuses all were good, disconnect the battery for about 30+ minutes, same thing, everything else works good i.e. audio system, all lights, horn, dash, remote etc, so the problem is when I turn the ignition on all looks ok, when I try to crank starter nothing happens, the only thing notice when I try to crank security light start flashing rapidly and nothing happens, If I dont crank it blinks like every second, as soon as I try to crank it starts flashing so fast may be 5 times per seconds and keep doing it, I tried to turn the ignition on and leave it about 15 minutes when it stops blinking and try to start same thing, dont know what I did, any I idea would be appreciated, I can do little work by my self to avoid to see dealer and pay $$++ please help me what to do???

 

For one reason or another your car no longer recognizes the key you're using. The fast flashing 'key-in-car' icon indicates a key who's code is not recognized (read: programmed) into the car's computer. Since you were playing around with wiring at the time I'm guessing you accidentally shorted something out and that either cleared out your key codes or just the current one. Not that I've heard of that happening before.....

Have you tried using another key? If so does it do the same thing? If it does then you need to have your car towed to a Mazda dealer so they can plug into your computer and manually reprogram the key codes into the car. It would be unfortunate if you had to go this route, but if all your key codes were cleared you don't really have a choice. Remember that they'd have to program in all keys at the same time so bring them all with you.

What were you using to "test" the wiring? multimeter? Did you unplug any of the connectors at the PJB?

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On a separate note let's try and help you with your fog light needs. Did you use the OEM wiring or the relay (presumably it has one) which came with your kit? What switch are you using? When do you want the fogs on? With ignition? With parking lights? With headlights? Assuming we can get your car started again and you know how you want them to work then we'll get them working the way you want them.

 

Ive actually had to go this route once. It sucks, big time. icspots is right. Somehow the transponder in your key isn't being recognized by the ECU/PCM anymore. The keys have to be re programmed into the computer.

I had a separate ECU/PCM tuned that was from the junkyard failing to realize this, luckily I was able to drive the car to the dealer with the stock ECU.

It takes roughly 1/2 hour to do it. Depending on your dealership labor rates. They charged me $65 to have the keys reprogrammed. Like he said, bring both keys. As far as I know they both keys "carry" the same "Code" for the PCM/ECU. If one doesn't work, more than likely the other won't either.

 

wooha !!! i got this fixed ....... thanks guys for the help...

here is the story: as I was searching here and there I read some where it is something that your keys are not communicating with engine ecu or brain, only two possibilities no communication or system lost they key information, as I talked with the dealer and pushing him to make my car driveable so I can take this to the dealership without towing, he said you checked the fuse so communication is there (except if anywire messed up) so its your system and we have to program the keys, diagnostic cost $125 and then we tell you what thing cost how much !!!!!!!!!!! i was like
before I call the two truck as I read about the fuse, I went again to check fuses and this time I specially look for the fuse that says Engine 20Amp (under the glove box) eventhough it was not blown I changed it with the other one, and bingo! mazda started like a charm, no problem at all, now I took the bad fuse put under the heavy light to see why It was not showing blown, then I figured out it has a hair line crack that is really hard to see............ this is the big thing solved with no cost
once again thank all for the help

 

Woo, awesome! Glad you figured out the issue. Sometimes with fuse checking it pays to actually check them with a multimeter or test light since (as you've just discovered) sometimes they're hard to see the break.

Now on to more important issues, lets get your fog lights working.