The Mazda 3 manual states that a special wrench is needed to remove the cartridge type oil filter housing. The housing is a casting that stays with the engine, the cartridge filter inside is replaced.

I asked my mechanic friend about this and he sent me an exploded view of the filter assembly. His judgement was that you might simply be able to use a band type oil filter wrench like that used for regular spin-on filters. Another friend suggested using a punch to put small dents or sharp edged holes in the band from the outside to give the band better grip on the housing. I'll be trying this after I get my free first oil change.

 

the first time i did my own oil change i just got a really good grip on it and turned it, kind of hard on the fingers but it worked, on my last change i just got a pipe wrench that would get big enough and with very little presure i got it to come right out. so i would say that that is you best bet or mabey a chain or strap wrench. make sure you take out the drain plug first to avoid a mess.

 

One note of caution on changing your own oil and filter with the cartridge style filter and plastic cover cap. Use the filter cap wrench available from Mazda. They should retail for under $20 and are used with a 3/8 ratchet to loosen and tighten the plastic cap. Using anything else that could crush or otherwise damage that plastic cover could cost you an engine out of your own pocket. Have now replaced 4 engines in both 3 and 6 due to the plastic cover cracking and spraying crankcase full of oil out onto the road. All were denied warranty coverage because the filter caps showed definite signs of using a tool that gouged into the plastic cap. Even using a strap type is not recommended because it works by actually squeezing the cap tighter and tighter untill it can be turned. This too can cause stress cracks on the cover that may not show up for weeks or months untill you are on the freeway at 4000rpm and 90psi of oil pressure when the stress crack will finally let go. That's how all 4 engines became siezed so far. Not enough time to get slowed down and off road and shut off before the damage was already done. It is not necessarily the dealer that will deny the claim but Mazda itself.
The have come out with several warnings regarding this and will call for every engine to be returned and inspected.
The choice seems fairly simple. $20 filter cap or $4000 engine.

The dealer has to order the filter cap thru Mstore and not regular EPC. Part number is AKS75140 and list price to dealer is $11.15.
Here also is that exploded view of cap and filter.

[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/7B983F8EBD1B4A789675B4674B1B4182.gif[/IMG]

 

They used to sell universal oil filter grips - plastic deal with a bunch of different filter sizes molded into it. Anyhow, that doesn't fit perfectly, but it fits good enough to change the filter. The one I got is from walmart and orange - should be easy to find most anywhere.

 

Why not justbuy one the right size. It is a 76-14 (76mm, 14 flats). They are available through Mazda, or many online parts suppliers.

 

um, my '07 mazda3 doesnt have the cartridge styly oil filter...
it has the common kind... im not sure what the technical term is for it...
anyways, i just had to take off a plastic shield under my car to get to my oil filter....
so then i guess this "special tool" would be a socket wrench and 10mm (i think) socket....

and synthetic is the way to go.... my engine felt smoother, sounded better, and i managed to get way better fuel economy.. at least for teh first 1000 km's....

 

Disposable spin-on filter.

 

I just ordered a filter wrench yesterday from Wayne Mazda, $5.25, see new vendor list at the right side of the page.

 

i took my mazda to an oil change place and i watched them do it.that so called basic tool was just a 6mm allen wrench.

 

I agree with you, lots of engines running conventional have lasted a long time. How you drive your car matters. If you are constantly punching the gas pedal, and taking the RPMs over 4000, the best oil in the universe isn't going to prevent the significan extra wear this type of driving causes.

The link below is to the famous 90s test of oils in New York city taxis. An interesting comment is in the article about STP oil additive actually changing the viscosity of the oil ... and whether or not you really need to change your oil every 3K. I personally do not intend to stretch it much,but I am not going to freak out if I go an extra 500 miles beyond 3K if I cannot easily fit a change into my schedule. Unless its 100F outside.

http://www.xs11.com/stories/croil96.htm


Also for your reading pleasure, a link to an article about 5w20 oil. I do not like having less film and sheer strength, so I go with 5w30.

http://bestsyntheticoil.com/dealers/...w20-cafe.shtml