click noise when rolling up windows
#1
04-13-2007 | 10:00 PM
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Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,747
click noise when rolling up windows
Do not recall seeing a thread on this but I have been running accross this problem quite a bit lately so thought would do a quick how to on it.
After rolling either front window down and then rolling it back up, you hear a click noise (sometimes quite loud) just as the window starts to move upward. The noise is due to front window regulator to window panel retaining bolts working loose. This is a covered, warrantable repair but I realise that some of you do not like going to the dealer so here goes.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/AA280272273A4B31BA1B731E0A2192A6.jpg[/IMG]
Start by removing removing these two phillips screws. There are little hole covers over both of them that need to be popped loose first. Remove the inner handle trim cover and disconnect power lock switch. Remove the upper front sail garnish trim and disconnect the tweeter speaker. Now pull the inner door panel trim staight outward except at very top. Once the plastic retaining clips are all released then slide door panel upward to release the upper hooks. Disconnect any remaining electrical connector and set door panel aside.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/964BBACC7B7A44E6B6F0E981AC7E01EA.jpg[/IMG]
Once the trim panel is off then locate the two plastic plugs with the X on them as in the picture. Yours will not have X's
[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/EED4B45FE2BD4CD0B6B5F4490DBE4064.jpg[/IMG]
Now that the plug are removed. Close or open the window as needed to get the window regulator to glass panel bolts lined up with the exposed holes. Can use eithera phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket to snug the bolts up. Be very careful not to overtighted as it is a course thread screw going into plastic and will strip out if too aggressive. Just tighten untill you feel some good resistance to turning and stop.
Reinstall plugs and door panel and enjoy a quiet window operation.
After rolling either front window down and then rolling it back up, you hear a click noise (sometimes quite loud) just as the window starts to move upward. The noise is due to front window regulator to window panel retaining bolts working loose. This is a covered, warrantable repair but I realise that some of you do not like going to the dealer so here goes.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/AA280272273A4B31BA1B731E0A2192A6.jpg[/IMG]
Start by removing removing these two phillips screws. There are little hole covers over both of them that need to be popped loose first. Remove the inner handle trim cover and disconnect power lock switch. Remove the upper front sail garnish trim and disconnect the tweeter speaker. Now pull the inner door panel trim staight outward except at very top. Once the plastic retaining clips are all released then slide door panel upward to release the upper hooks. Disconnect any remaining electrical connector and set door panel aside.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/964BBACC7B7A44E6B6F0E981AC7E01EA.jpg[/IMG]
Once the trim panel is off then locate the two plastic plugs with the X on them as in the picture. Yours will not have X's
[IMG]local://upfiles/1377/EED4B45FE2BD4CD0B6B5F4490DBE4064.jpg[/IMG]
Now that the plug are removed. Close or open the window as needed to get the window regulator to glass panel bolts lined up with the exposed holes. Can use eithera phillips screwdriver or 10mm socket to snug the bolts up. Be very careful not to overtighted as it is a course thread screw going into plastic and will strip out if too aggressive. Just tighten untill you feel some good resistance to turning and stop.
Reinstall plugs and door panel and enjoy a quiet window operation.
#2
04-14-2007 | 05:40 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,666
From: Manor, TX (Outside of Austin)
RE: click noise when rolling up windows
Awwww. I want the big X's on mine too. [sm=boosign.gif] [sm=gobble.gif]
I've had mine tightened by the dealer before, as you say, when I was going to the dealer. Now they're at it again. Got any ideas for how to make this a more permanent fix? Loctite, perhaps?
Or IYO, is there a way to bush it, maybe w/rubber? [sm=badidea.gif]??? [sm=goodidea.gif]???
I've had mine tightened by the dealer before, as you say, when I was going to the dealer. Now they're at it again. Got any ideas for how to make this a more permanent fix? Loctite, perhaps?
Or IYO, is there a way to bush it, maybe w/rubber? [sm=badidea.gif]??? [sm=goodidea.gif]???
#3
04-16-2007 | 10:39 PM
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Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,747
RE: click noise when rolling up windows
Glad you asked the question virgin1 as I just learned something new about this clicking that I did not know. Apparently Mazda got tired of warranty claims for tightening the retaining screw and updated the parts that are causing the problem. Too bad they did not let anyone know and had to find out for myself.[:@]
The old system of attaching the window to the regulator was a plastic insert that fit into holes in the base of the glass and a course threaded screw that would then thread thru the regulator andinto this grommet completing the attachment. Notorious for coming loose with all of the window movement that occurs on a day to day basis.
I brought over a 2007 to see what the diameter of the hole in the glass was and was surprised to find a whole different setup on this car. Checked on the parts computer for different years and found that as of July 6, 2005 production date, the attachment pieces have changed. The new style still has a plastic plate that clips into the hole but also has a pivot plate that hinges around to the backside of the glass with metal flange nut. The attaching bolt has also changed to a machine thread. This setup allows for a much greater tightening torque and even the use of loctite to ensure that it will not loosen (although I doubt it will). Install these update attaching hardware pieces and you should never have a problem again. I checked to make sure the window glass was the same and hole diameter had not changed or anything. Glass part numbers are all interchangeable so all is ok there.
Part number for thenew stylemetal grommet is GJ6A-58-512 with retail of 3.60 each
Part number for the new machine thread bolt is 9YA11-A501A with retail of $1.10 each.
You will need two of each of the above parts for each front window. $9.40 per window and no more clicking forever.
You will need to remove the door speaker to install the new parts as there is just not enough room to work thru those two tiny holes. Oh, and you can put little X's on yours when you get in there.
The old system of attaching the window to the regulator was a plastic insert that fit into holes in the base of the glass and a course threaded screw that would then thread thru the regulator andinto this grommet completing the attachment. Notorious for coming loose with all of the window movement that occurs on a day to day basis.
I brought over a 2007 to see what the diameter of the hole in the glass was and was surprised to find a whole different setup on this car. Checked on the parts computer for different years and found that as of July 6, 2005 production date, the attachment pieces have changed. The new style still has a plastic plate that clips into the hole but also has a pivot plate that hinges around to the backside of the glass with metal flange nut. The attaching bolt has also changed to a machine thread. This setup allows for a much greater tightening torque and even the use of loctite to ensure that it will not loosen (although I doubt it will). Install these update attaching hardware pieces and you should never have a problem again. I checked to make sure the window glass was the same and hole diameter had not changed or anything. Glass part numbers are all interchangeable so all is ok there.
Part number for thenew stylemetal grommet is GJ6A-58-512 with retail of 3.60 each
Part number for the new machine thread bolt is 9YA11-A501A with retail of $1.10 each.
You will need two of each of the above parts for each front window. $9.40 per window and no more clicking forever.
You will need to remove the door speaker to install the new parts as there is just not enough room to work thru those two tiny holes. Oh, and you can put little X's on yours when you get in there.
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