"Wouldn't it be great if Mazda assigned an engineer to read the forums for problems with their cars and prepare posts with solutions? It is plainly obvious that a problem is very common when you look at the number of "views" listed for certain topics, such the headlights (many thousands of owners have headlight failure problems). Mazda should have issued a bulletin or a recall since the corroding PJB is clearly a safety problem. This looks like a design/engineering flaw. Every electrician and plumber knows to never put moisture sources above electrical boxes. Shame on them."

Yes, and I actually asked this question of the Mazda dealer in Columbus, GA after they told me it would cost +$1,000 to fix the primary junction box in my 2004 Mazda3. I've been looking all over for a salvage part and can't find one.

I was/am having similar problems with my lights. When I turn my headlights on the tail lights and interior lighting doesn't turn on, intermittently. The told me it was a short in the primary junction box and that the whole thing had to be replaced.

Concurrently, they told me that both my engine mounts were cracked and the fluid had leaked out, another $250 repair.

Does anyone have a suggestion for fixing these issue for <$1500!

Thanks.

 

I recently tried to install led strips to my 2008 mazda 3 sedan to give it a nice look. I am not an electrician so in the process of installing them I snipped the ground wire and turn signal wire instead of splicing them like I was supposed too...anybody have an ideas how to fix it and how much it would cost if I took it to a garage to get it fixed?

 

Well assuming you just snipped the wires and didn't do anything else to them then just reconnect them. You can do this several ways.

1. (the best way) would be to solder the wires back together and cover them with heat shrink. That will give the best and most dependable connection.

2. use crimp on butt connectors. Basically it's a plastic covered thin metal tube. Strip the ends of both wires and stick the wires into the tube. Then use a crimper to crush the metal tube. Both wires end up in contact with the tube (or each other) and make the connection.

3. use crimp on spade or barrel connectors. Similar idea as the butt connector except you crimp a male plug to one wire and a female to the other and then just plug them in. This wouldn't be my first choice since you won't have any pressing need to disconnect them for anything.

Incidentally with any of these methods you can attach the lead for your LEDs at the same time. In the case of either of the crimp connectors you can just stick the LED wire in the same end as one of the other wires.

 

I am currently experiencing the same issue. Both my low beam headlights will not turn on, high beams and blinkers work just fine. Also my left back tail light is out as well. I have tested the bulbs and they are fine... Does anyone know what is causing this? Trying to avoid going to the dealership and paying a crap ton of $$$$

 

I wish I had an answer to help ya a'll out but I am in the same boat in addition to my headlights blowing out completely way too often.

I am having to replace my headlight bulbs (low beam only) generally 2x/year.

I have had the dealership look to see if there are wiring problems or something but it always comes back that nothing is wrong.

I don't know what to do anymore.

Mine is a 2006 BTW.

 

Actually the electric power steering reduces fuel consumption as it only uses energy when you call for it. The hydraulic power steering is always on and therefore uses always some energy. The electrical power steering feels a bit vague going straight, because you have to move the wheel a bit before the power assists you.