How Do I Repace the Horn in the 08 Mazda 3?
#2
10-24-2010 | 06:17 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,526
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From another forum. This is exactly what I did, however I replaced the stock high tone with the freeway blaster high tone as well as the low tone.
We all know that the stock horn on the 3 is a bit wimpy / pathetic.
I've actually gotten in the habit of only hitting the LOCK button on the remote one time when I leave the car; pressing it twice makes the horn chirp, and I would feel emasculated if one of the women at my apartment complex were to hear the pathetic sound that the stock horn makes.
I decided to upgrade the stock horn by adding a second, lower pitched, horn. It took me quite a while to figure out how to do it, when in reality upgrading the horn is quite simple. (And you don't have to cut, splice, or tap any wires.)
What follows is a beginner's guide to upgrading wimpy the stock horn in the mazda 3.
For starters, you will need some tools. Here's what I used:
Regular sized Phillips screwdriver, 10mm socket, 12mm socket (worked, but was a bit loose), flashlight, optional small flat screwdriver, and wire crimper / stripper tool
[img width=576 height=768]http://www.fmvperformance.com/forum_items/gallery/33446_08_07_08_8_12_42.jpg[/img]
You will also need a replacement horn, some heat shrink tubing or quality electrical tape, some (perhaps one foot) 18 to 14 gauge wire (prefer 16 or 14 gauge), and a single crimp-on spade terminal that matches the one on the back of the replacement (or OEM) horn (this will plug into the factory wiring harness in place of the terminal on the horn).
The stock horn is just a generic, high pitched Fiamm AM80S trumpet horn, model A045622.
According to Fiamm's (the manufacturer) website, AM80S horns draw 5A of power. The fusebox has a 15 amp fuse, so I should be able to add a second horn and still have a margin for error.
I picked up a <LINK http://www.fiammamerica.com/Product.asp?ProductID=156>Fiamm Freeway Blaster LOW NOTE horn</LINK> at Advance Auto Parts for about $17 after tax.
Accessing the horn is quite simple, and if you have small hands and don't mind somewhat tight spaces, there is no need to remove the bumper. The horn is located below the driver's (left) side headlight (beneath / beside the air filter / intake).
You should probably put the front of the car on ramps or jackstands. There are three Phillips head screws that hold the plastic wheel-well piece to the front, left, underside corner of the bumper. Remove these screws. The flap will then be stuck underneath the skid panel (the one that gets in the way of the oil filter). You will have to slide it to the side to free it from the skid plate (Optional: you can also remove the skid plate if you like), and then peel it back as shown from the side:
Shine your flashlight up into the cavity, and you should be able to see the horn on its mounting bracket. There is a single wire attached to the stock horn - carefully unplug it. The bracket is held in place by a hook and a single bolt (~12mm). Remove the bolt, then slide the bracket upwards to free the hook from the chassis.
You will need to remove the nut from the stock horn on the bracket, and then add the additional bracket for the second horn, as well as the ground for the second horn. It might do well to put a bit of lock-tight on the nut (you might assemble the whole thing before tightening it down for the final time, however). Below are two pictures of stock bracket/horn with the additional bracket/horn added.
Stock horn
Additional horn (they look quite similar)
(UPDATE: people with fog lamps have commented that it may be necessary to re-hang the original bracket first and then bolt on the stock horn and the extra bracket/horn second.)
You will need to wire up a small harness to plug the stock connector into the two horns (they will be connected in parallel). The two female crimp connectors come with the aftermarket horn; you will have to buy an extra male/spade terminal that matches the ones on the horns and plug that one into the factory horn wire that you disconnected earlier.
Here is my harness:
Here is what it looks like on the mounting brackets:
[img width=576 height=768]http://www.fmvperformance.com/forum_items/gallery/33446_08_07_08_8_14_07.jpg[/img]
At this point, you need to reinstall the horn assembly.
Be careful not to hit your hand on anything while tightening the nut.
You may have to readjust it a bit to make sure that your horns don't rub on anything in the vehicle. (I don't have foglamps, so i don't know if they make this process difficult or not - You might see how much room you have in there before you start)
Here are some pictures looking up from the bottom of the car at the improved horn assembly:
(the horns face toward the front of the vehicle, at a downward angle. The aftermarket horn is closest to to the camera/bottom of the vehicle)
The horn sounds like it belongs to a real car now; nothing to be embarrassed about anymore.
(Be sure to let us know how your upgrade turns out!)
I've actually gotten in the habit of only hitting the LOCK button on the remote one time when I leave the car; pressing it twice makes the horn chirp, and I would feel emasculated if one of the women at my apartment complex were to hear the pathetic sound that the stock horn makes.
I decided to upgrade the stock horn by adding a second, lower pitched, horn. It took me quite a while to figure out how to do it, when in reality upgrading the horn is quite simple. (And you don't have to cut, splice, or tap any wires.)
What follows is a beginner's guide to upgrading wimpy the stock horn in the mazda 3.
For starters, you will need some tools. Here's what I used:
Regular sized Phillips screwdriver, 10mm socket, 12mm socket (worked, but was a bit loose), flashlight, optional small flat screwdriver, and wire crimper / stripper tool
[img width=576 height=768]http://www.fmvperformance.com/forum_items/gallery/33446_08_07_08_8_12_42.jpg[/img]
You will also need a replacement horn, some heat shrink tubing or quality electrical tape, some (perhaps one foot) 18 to 14 gauge wire (prefer 16 or 14 gauge), and a single crimp-on spade terminal that matches the one on the back of the replacement (or OEM) horn (this will plug into the factory wiring harness in place of the terminal on the horn).
The stock horn is just a generic, high pitched Fiamm AM80S trumpet horn, model A045622.
According to Fiamm's (the manufacturer) website, AM80S horns draw 5A of power. The fusebox has a 15 amp fuse, so I should be able to add a second horn and still have a margin for error.
I picked up a <LINK http://www.fiammamerica.com/Product.asp?ProductID=156>Fiamm Freeway Blaster LOW NOTE horn</LINK> at Advance Auto Parts for about $17 after tax.
Accessing the horn is quite simple, and if you have small hands and don't mind somewhat tight spaces, there is no need to remove the bumper. The horn is located below the driver's (left) side headlight (beneath / beside the air filter / intake).
You should probably put the front of the car on ramps or jackstands. There are three Phillips head screws that hold the plastic wheel-well piece to the front, left, underside corner of the bumper. Remove these screws. The flap will then be stuck underneath the skid panel (the one that gets in the way of the oil filter). You will have to slide it to the side to free it from the skid plate (Optional: you can also remove the skid plate if you like), and then peel it back as shown from the side:
Shine your flashlight up into the cavity, and you should be able to see the horn on its mounting bracket. There is a single wire attached to the stock horn - carefully unplug it. The bracket is held in place by a hook and a single bolt (~12mm). Remove the bolt, then slide the bracket upwards to free the hook from the chassis.
You will need to remove the nut from the stock horn on the bracket, and then add the additional bracket for the second horn, as well as the ground for the second horn. It might do well to put a bit of lock-tight on the nut (you might assemble the whole thing before tightening it down for the final time, however). Below are two pictures of stock bracket/horn with the additional bracket/horn added.
Stock horn
Additional horn (they look quite similar)
(UPDATE: people with fog lamps have commented that it may be necessary to re-hang the original bracket first and then bolt on the stock horn and the extra bracket/horn second.)
You will need to wire up a small harness to plug the stock connector into the two horns (they will be connected in parallel). The two female crimp connectors come with the aftermarket horn; you will have to buy an extra male/spade terminal that matches the ones on the horns and plug that one into the factory horn wire that you disconnected earlier.
Here is my harness:
Here is what it looks like on the mounting brackets:
[img width=576 height=768]http://www.fmvperformance.com/forum_items/gallery/33446_08_07_08_8_14_07.jpg[/img]
At this point, you need to reinstall the horn assembly.
Be careful not to hit your hand on anything while tightening the nut.
You may have to readjust it a bit to make sure that your horns don't rub on anything in the vehicle. (I don't have foglamps, so i don't know if they make this process difficult or not - You might see how much room you have in there before you start)
Here are some pictures looking up from the bottom of the car at the improved horn assembly:
(the horns face toward the front of the vehicle, at a downward angle. The aftermarket horn is closest to to the camera/bottom of the vehicle)
The horn sounds like it belongs to a real car now; nothing to be embarrassed about anymore.
(Be sure to let us know how your upgrade turns out!)
#5
10-25-2010 | 01:09 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,666
From: Manor, TX (Outside of Austin)
While I admit I tend to think about things too much sometimes in this case I was just trying to offer a picture w/a more clear perspective.
In fact, my wiring to the new horn is even simpler than in icspots pic. I used a piggy-back connector (female-male) and jump a wire to the new horn that way.
I had already done the horn mod the hard way months before this. I was after bigger fish when this shot was taken.
Last edited by virgin1; 10-25-2010 at 01:13 PM.
#7
10-29-2010 | 12:43 AM
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,666
From: Manor, TX (Outside of Austin)
Actually, it was icspots that posted the "how-to," I was just offering a wider picture of the final product. But you're welcome.
As the how-to says, the horn can be accessed from underneath by pulling back the front LS splash shield, but it is tight and hard to see under there. None the less, that's how I did it too... after a few swear words of course.
#8
10-29-2010 | 02:58 PM
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Joined: May 2006
Posts: 1,526
From:
Actually, it was icspots that posted the "how-to," I was just offering a wider picture of the final product. But you're welcome.
As the how-to says, the horn can be accessed from underneath by pulling back the front LS splash shield, but it is tight and hard to see under there. None the less, that's how I did it too... after a few swear words of course.
#9
10-29-2010 | 03:56 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,666
From: Manor, TX (Outside of Austin)
I did jack up my car first, but I was being kind. I actually said more than a few words before I was done too... and had a few bloody knuckles to show for it.
That dam*ed plastic is SHARP!!
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