Mazda 3 Drivers Side Power Windows Issue
#1
02-24-2011 | 12:11 PM
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 5
Mazda 3 Drivers Side Power Windows Issue
I have a 2005 Mazda 3 S (5Door).
Had issues with power windows on and off. Didn't work sometimes, then worked again.
But now for 3 month BOTH drivers side windows dont work. Front and Back from either switch. I bought a new master switch of Ebay and nothing changes. Both windows dont work. The switch for the front drivers side window lights up (red) but that's it. I guess the problem is wiring?
Help anyone know what it could be and where to start looking?
Had issues with power windows on and off. Didn't work sometimes, then worked again.
But now for 3 month BOTH drivers side windows dont work. Front and Back from either switch. I bought a new master switch of Ebay and nothing changes. Both windows dont work. The switch for the front drivers side window lights up (red) but that's it. I guess the problem is wiring?
Help anyone know what it could be and where to start looking?
#2
02-24-2011 | 04:02 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 168
From: Luton, England
try the fuse first
I assume it the same as the Mazda 5 and you can reset the windows by disconnecting the battery for a short time. Then if they work at all, wind the drivers one down holding the down switch for a further 5 seconds then immediately wind it back up and hold the switch for 5 seconds. Repeat for each window.
That if they then work at all. If its the fuse you will probably have to do this anyway
I assume it the same as the Mazda 5 and you can reset the windows by disconnecting the battery for a short time. Then if they work at all, wind the drivers one down holding the down switch for a further 5 seconds then immediately wind it back up and hold the switch for 5 seconds. Repeat for each window.
That if they then work at all. If its the fuse you will probably have to do this anyway
#3
02-24-2011 | 05:00 PM
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 5
try the fuse first
I assume it the same as the Mazda 5 and you can reset the windows by disconnecting the battery for a short time. Then if they work at all, wind the drivers one down holding the down switch for a further 5 seconds then immediately wind it back up and hold the switch for 5 seconds. Repeat for each window.
That if they then work at all. If its the fuse you will probably have to do this anyway
I assume it the same as the Mazda 5 and you can reset the windows by disconnecting the battery for a short time. Then if they work at all, wind the drivers one down holding the down switch for a further 5 seconds then immediately wind it back up and hold the switch for 5 seconds. Repeat for each window.
That if they then work at all. If its the fuse you will probably have to do this anyway
But I will give the battery disconnection a try.
#4
02-24-2011 | 06:11 PM
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 12
From: Hillsboro, Oregon
Window Lockout isn't on, is it?
I realize that you may have already looked at this, but since this is an open ended problem, I figured I would double check.
The Window Lock out below the Power window switches isn't pushed in, right?
The Window Lock out below the Power window switches isn't pushed in, right?
#5
02-27-2011 | 02:21 PM
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 5
No the lockout is not active.
I also disconnected the Battery. Did not do anything.
Now if I knew how to use a Voltmeter I might be able to test the power at the switch.
#6
02-28-2011 | 03:32 PM
Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 168
From: Luton, England
Hi Mate
on a Mazda 5 its either: in the fuse box under the bonnet fuse 3 which is a 40amp or fuse 18 which is a 20amp.
In the one in the passenger side its fuse 18 which is a 30amp (i would look here first)
I thought the 3 & the 5 were similar and if you work 3 windows at the same time its easy to overload the fuse - sorry if you've already checked this but a switch going will rarely take the whole system out
on a Mazda 5 its either: in the fuse box under the bonnet fuse 3 which is a 40amp or fuse 18 which is a 20amp.
In the one in the passenger side its fuse 18 which is a 30amp (i would look here first)
I thought the 3 & the 5 were similar and if you work 3 windows at the same time its easy to overload the fuse - sorry if you've already checked this but a switch going will rarely take the whole system out
#7
02-28-2011 | 08:13 PM
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Junior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 5
Hi Mate
on a Mazda 5 its either: in the fuse box under the bonnet fuse 3 which is a 40amp or fuse 18 which is a 20amp.
In the one in the passenger side its fuse 18 which is a 30amp (i would look here first)
I thought the 3 & the 5 were similar and if you work 3 windows at the same time its easy to overload the fuse - sorry if you've already checked this but a switch going will rarely take the whole system out
on a Mazda 5 its either: in the fuse box under the bonnet fuse 3 which is a 40amp or fuse 18 which is a 20amp.
In the one in the passenger side its fuse 18 which is a 30amp (i would look here first)
I thought the 3 & the 5 were similar and if you work 3 windows at the same time its easy to overload the fuse - sorry if you've already checked this but a switch going will rarely take the whole system out
Any other ideas? I took the whole door panel of and when I operate the switch the Windows motor makes a loud clicking noise, but that's it. Also the switch is lit so power seems to go to it. Now of course its not just the front window but also the back window (drivers side) don't work. not from front switch or from back switch.
I am lost. Unless both window motors broke at the same time?!
#9
03-01-2011 | 06:44 PM
Super Moderator
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 8,666
From: Manor, TX (Outside of Austin)
Certainly a loud clicking noise is not good, but it does indicate the motor is getting power.
It sounds like some stripped gears to me, but like ggsumo have not experienced this problem and therefore can only guess.
It sounds to me like its time to pull the riser assem and see what you can see.
