Summer is just around the corner and I have started to use the AC. This year I have several addition of electrical components which could place a strain on my MAZDA anemic factory battery cables. I mean you all look at those tiny things. LOL I did an OHM draw test and the factory 100 amp alternator can no longer support with a margin of extra my MAZDA should I decide to run the AC have my headlights on and listen to my stereo system. So the first order of business is to add some more ground cable and also add a much larger battery ground to engine and battery positive to Alternator cable. Doing the math #4 is more then enough even when I add MONSTER ALTERNATOR 250amp with 125AMPs @ Idle and Full Output Available at a Low 1200RPM.

At this point I have installed the new grounding cables and removing a couple of the factory ones to replace them with better grounds. Sorry the project is a bit hard to see in the picture's. I it is even harder because in the end I carefully ran the cables to allow for engine movement and direct shortest route to the negative terminal on the battery.

The positive cable will be later as it will be a bit more challenging because of the already loaded down factory positive battery terminal and how that area is designed. Not easy as simply replacing the terminal with something aftermarket.

When it is all finished I may return later to re-think the battery attaching cables? It just starts to look busy there? IDK?



This is the small and single factory chassis ground cable on the left side of the engine compartment.



Added and replaced the OEM chassis grounding cable. Will add one more #4 chassis ground cable on drivers side later.










New ground cable grounded to engine




New ground cable routed along F/I Ignition Harness




Covered the new ground cable

 

The morning inspiration and a good cup of coffee had me out in the garage to cut a custom length #4 cable and install my Alternator cable to the positive side of the battery. This simple project came up with a few interesting challenges. The first was the cover MAZDA uses on the Alternator to protect the cable. I choose after examining it to leave it attached and not modify it to latch shut. It will not make any difference really unless I plan to "tool-around" that cable with metal tools while still connected and under battery power. The next was the actual battery terminal connector. I am still not completely happy with how everything is connected from a aesthetically pleasing point of view. In my personal opinion it is way to busy and unorganized?
I routed my new cable along the OEM cable harness and zipped tied it secure. I used a hose clamp to secure at the last end of the engine before crossing over to the battery terminal. It finished with a pretty clean install. Here is the thing without going into all the Volt and ohm numbers , when I started the engine that was already still warm from a short trip before I started the project I watched the volts and ohms. Both were notably higher than what I had logged and lead me to consider and thus install larger and more ground connections and the battery cable to the alternator. My little OEM 100amp Alternator is already running close to 80% output during the summer when I play my stereo at 16-24% volume and have the AC on. If I adjust the Sub-woofer amplifier to higher gain 30-50% I start to see the volts drop from 13.30 to high 12 volts and the amps increase at a very high linear rate. So this is why later I will be installing the 250 amp alternator.

 

I have had my water/meth injection (normally prevents carbon and cleans the intake valve ) off the car now while I have been procrastinating machining up a new spacer. So I thought why not do a DIY intake manifold and intake valve preventative cleaning? Please refer to the first post in this thread before commenting about what I do to my MAZDA... thanks!

I had to make myself a little tubular adapter for the little red spray tube. So "MacGyver" one up with what I had laying around at arms reach in the garage and hey it worked.

 

Oooooooookay, lol after getting a couple of friendly p.m.'s about my MacGyver posting I decided to do a more appropriate carbon deposit cleaning treatment set up.



Now I can do many things from that direct vacuum port besides just sucking up fluids.













I changed the fitting for a smaller tube size.









Now I can use none aerosol fluids and cleaners

 

After how well the liquid tune up went I desided to do a low engine speed constant water injection project. The other water /meth is more for sport driving and not really for lower engine speeds. .
So off to the store to find suitable project materials....... stay tuned.


Grab a picture of a water bottle for visual effect only I am not really going to use this kind of bottle .

 

So here are the basic NEW item that I picked up at 2 items from SAFEWAY grocery store today.
The other I order from my Auto Parts Disturber Warehouse which they were kind enough to deliver.

The challenge will be to somehow convert the lid for the purpose I need it for. I will somehow find a way to install 2 hoses one to draw atmosphere air into the bottle close to the bottom fully submerge in the liquid and the other will be using the brass valve to control vacuum input from the engine near the top of the lid out of the liquid near the top of the bottle.

 

I got carried away with thinking and re-thinking this project I neglected to take more process pictures. ops! That's sometimes to much detail tends to lose the interest in even looking at pictures.

The cap portion with the sealing drinking spout was easy. I just completely took apart the lid reverse of how it was manufactured and eliminated it replacing it with a soft hose.

The next step was to find a suitable location and make a mount for it. Again this was easy. The next step is a little more evolved because no I need to really consider fluid, volume and vaporization dynamics and combined them all in a bottle that will fundamentally work like my mind tells me it will. I have done these before and it is not a new concept but these are mostly for carbureted engine not ECU/EFI controlled engines. And to be sure I am not the designer of the concept which I did actually sorta copied in the 70"s when companies like Marvin Miller came out with their very primitive for the time water injection kits.

so here is where I am at so far....




























Yes I painted the hole with to prevent rust

 

Now it starts to get tricky......

 

I know some of you are wondering what the turkey baster was for.....


This is as far as I got today

 

I have the top portion of the project almost finished. I needed to get a couple more small items to make it work as I envisioned. Sometimes project develop as I go . I did actually draw up a design and what I thought I was going to do and use for materials but the use of none conventual parts makes what I thought and what I really must do very different. As I get closer to finishing I come up with problems I did not consider. However nothing is impossible.

Today :