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Now if only the trumpet on the horn was curled you’d have way more options in how it’s mounted. Granted it doesn’t need to be pointed forward... it will be loud no matter where it is.
I am pretty sure I can mount them after dropping the splash/engine cover just behind the lower grill and below the actual AC condenser is at ? Surprisingly there is a lot of room. I had and still may use that area for an additional oil cooler for either the ATX or engine? I like that the ATX factory itty bitty cooler is easy access when you remove the air box.. That is where I will remove it and use the adapter I made with AN fitting for an auxiliary cooler.
I am pretty sure I can mount them after dropping the splash/engine cover just behind the lower grill and below the actual AC condenser is at ? Surprisingly there is a lot of room.
Today I finished the installation of the additional auxiliary air horn. After dropping the splash guard I found some interesting parts. Now mind you we purchased this MAZDA with 3 miles on the odometer and it has never been worked on by anyone ever! And I work like a surgeon, meaning I return all my tools and also never drop and not look for and find any fasteners while working on the engine. I used a level to angle the front slightly lower the rear to aide in keeping water from filling and remaining in the horn. ll said it was an easy install and the result was an improvement in decibels combing the OEM horns and the additional air horn. In other words it will get attention when used!
Rotated my tires at the close to the 5000 miles set maintenance schedule.
When i do this I take the time to meticulously clean the tires,tread by removing all the debris,clean the wheel front and back and then while the tire is completely cold check the tire pressure.
Then I will hand wash each of the well areas to remove the accumulated road buggers and sticky what- ever.
I use the traditional FWD tire rotation schedule reinstalling after the cleaning.
I NEVER use any sort of air guns on my wheels and position and hand tighten each lug nut, then do a 3 stepped Torquing procedure starting at 50 psi up to 95psi. (recheck the final torque at about 25 miles)
Log everything in my book and on to washing and detailing the rest of the car.
Rotated my tires at the close to the 5000 miles set maintenance schedule.
When i do this I take the time to meticulously clean the tires,tread by removing all the debris,clean the wheel front and back and then while the tire is completely cold check the tire pressure.
Then I will hand wash each of the well areas to remove the accumulated road buggers and sticky what- ever.
I use the traditional FWD tire rotation schedule reinstalling after the cleaning.
I NEVER use any sort of air guns on my wheels and position and hand tighten each lug nut, then do a 3 stepped Torquing procedure starting at 50 psi up to 95psi. (recheck the final torque at about 25 miles)
Log everything in my book and on to washing and detailing the rest of the car.
Doesn’t it feel good to do a job the right way.
i get a hard time when I wash my wheels off the car each season when changing from winter to summer tires.
I have always enjoyed the task of cleaning and detailing all my rides. There is always that good feeling when friends and family compliment how clean they are.
This was very simple and only took about 30 minutes. The actual installation after I got my Mazda up in the air was about 5 minutes. But everything else was getting the tools for the job.
I have a Auto meter D-Pic and can measure G's. I set it for an easy 1 G @100% knowing that most likely will not exceed this in turning the Mazda 3 on the street? I was really skeptical that this would do anything because it is only a 2 mounting point bar and have used them on other vehicles with no results felt or measured. And as I tested with a quick drive on a known turn ..... "NOTHING" ! LOL but it is RED so it must add at least some horse power to the engine...right? LOL
Eibach Sway Bars Mazda 3 (2014-2018) [Rear Anti Roll] 5557.312
Eibach Sway Bars Mazda 3 (2014-2018) [Rear Anti Roll] 5557.312 Specs & Features Note: Rear Sway Bar is Tubular and 2 Way-Adjustable.
Sway Bar: 21mm
Mevotechend links TXMS76872 Specs & Features
Manufactured with Mevotech patented sintered metal bearings for superior durability and service life.
Integri-Boot design is built into the ball joint assembly providing a superior seal against moisture and contaminants.
Optimized, application specific ball stud system with added material to the sphere size.
Locking Nut provided to secure ball joint to the vehicle.
Comes with pre-applied Nylok thread adhesive for sturdy and secure fastener retention.
A 180 Degree SAE grease fitting is included for serviceability
I am not going to go into detail about the installation as that has been done dozens of times on this Mazda forum and others. I will note my impressions which are my personal observations and also noted by my Autometer D-Pic that can measure lateral g force G forces to within 1% of accuracy. I set mine as previously noted in the last suspension installation at 1 G of lateral g force @ 100% = full 1G. If this bar exceeds this setting I can increase the G-force measured level indication.
The installation was easy and straight forward with NO problems. The actual surgery time was little over 2 hours. This time was mostly because I tend to clean everything I remove and inspect every part. This includes chasing threads if necessary and applying anti-seize, greasing etc.
After I removed the stock sway bar and compared the 2 sway bars to make sure at least by sight that they looked similar I reinstalled the sway-bar packing cover to protect the RED finish during the installation. No matter how careful I can be there is still a little contact going on when installing the sway bar.
I did a test drive and noticed only a slight increase in firmness of normal straight line driving and going around a test curve only noted .07% increase in anti-sway. This was on the firm setting. I think that other using this bar would get a better increase in anti-sway percentage because my Mazda 3 is several hundred pounds heavier then stock because of the sound demeaning material through out the body and the added stereo equipment which is the sub-woofer enclosure in the trunk with 2, 12' s .
IMHO after I install the Cork Sport adjustable High Pressure shocks and struts the ebach sway bar will compliment them very well. I did not want to go with the Cork-Sport rear sway bar because IMHO the bar is just to large for street use and if you have some sport /track driving school behind you not really needed. "You dont have the car drive you but you drive the car."
When the complete factory air intake/filter box is removed there is so much more room to thread the new wiring harness.
While installing my horns I removed the air intake system again and after seeing that monstrosity out of the car I decided to install my partial air intake system I designed. This is only the basic parts and does not include any of the actual "COLD AIR" ducting that needs to go with another part I am still work on having to do with the body. Unfortunately because of covid19 my body shop I use decided to temporarily close so until he re-opens his shop I can not finish the other part of the complete Cold air intake system.
But at least I have a little cleaner looking engine compartment.
I did do a quick 0-60 pass (I waited for the ambient to mach the original Delta from 2 years ago for the test run) just to see for sheeets and giggles if this made any improvements of negative results. Lets just say I was surprised.
Oh I did have to adjust my Pedal Commander to stock setting because the setting I was using was city+2 and the cold start up messed with the ECU trying to adjust for a steady RPM warm up.
05-22-2020, 01:22 PM
my body shop I use decided to temporarily close so until he re-opens his shop I can not finish the other part of the complete Cold air intake system. 
