Hi,


I’m new to posting so my apologizes if I’m doing something wrong. This morning pretty much every light on the dash turned on, but the car seemed to be running fine. I ran the codes and received a ton of different ones. It’s an electrical issue and I am expecting the TCM because I’ve had issues with it before, but this is a crazy number of codes. What do you guys think?

 

I really hate people who use these blue tooth scanning devices.... for most it is information over load.


So lets begin with ..
Note the DTC check your monitors and note any that are not in state of readiness.

Then clear all the DTC and reset your monitors.
From a cold start let the engine get to operating temperature or until the check engine light is first generated. Turn off the engine and retrieve only the current DTC.

Then report that finding and we can go on to the next step in how to diagnosis engine trouble codes.

I should note as I often do that the best way for any DIY is to buy or borrow a REAL OBD Scanner and connect it directly to the diagnostic connector. I have shown more times than not to my customers that use them when they bring their car in for service based on using a blue tooth scanner no matter what brand used that they just don't work as well!

 

Wing1

Welcome to the forum

 

Thanks and will do. I’ll do this when I get home later. I did clear the codes once before that picture and when I restarted the car the check engine light came on immediately, with the rest of the lights going on and off sporadically. It was extremely foggy this morning and I was thinking it could be related to moisture.

 

You may want to have your battery load tested before you do the next scanning? Lets rule out a battery problem first.

 

I followed your instruction regarding the codes twice and with the car off it comes back with nothing but with the car in it now comes back with this (attached). All lights are now off besides the traction light.

I checked the battery and it came back at 12.2v off, but it’s only 40 degrees here and 14.6 v with the car running.



Do you think I should check the fuses?

 

The battery needs to be load tested. You can not do that with the device your are using. There are special battery testing equipment that does this separately from I believe none of blue tooth have. If you look on this forum there are several topic and conversation about battery in general. Most all of them show or suggest that you have the battery load tested before starting to diagnosis ECU and engine operation management systems.
Check here for you they will do it for free.
type in search bar:
pep boys location in IL USA

or

Find Your Nearest Auto Store | Pep Boys

 

Go to post #27. I know of no one that takes as well care for their battery and charging system than myself. I check my battery monthly and I got a surprise when trying to show how to do a battery load test. the last one I did was about 3 weeks ago. This is how fast they can start to go bad/fail and most never know it until the engine will not turn over to start. or possibly a number of DTC all at one time when the engine still runs well.

Expected battery life ?? - Mazda Forum - Mazda Enthusiast Forums

 

Very interesting, thanks! I just used a multimeter to get the battery voltage after it sat all day and when it was running, I’m going to see if it’s drive able tomorrow but either way I’ll swing by an auto shop tomorrow and get it load tested. The battery is about 1 year old.

 

The voltmeter can only show voltage reading it cannot show the alternator state of charging nor can it show the state of the battery to measure CCA .

If you read the thread I recommended your battery age is likely when you bought it not how old it is?
After you load test check all the battery connection. At the terminals, starter and the most important the ground lead to the body.