ORIGINAL: icspots

First off ignore the prices you just quoted. Second off look at this tragedy as a chance for an upgrade. The upgrade I speak of is heated mirrors, which should come in really handy in Chicago. All of the wiring for heated mirrors is present in the US 3 up to the plug in the door.... just not in the mirror-side of the plug..... they just aren't offered as an option.

You can buy an entire new mirror with housing that has the heating element for about $105 from Jason at www.onlinemazdaparts.com and install it yourself. To replace the mirror is literally a five minute job so screw paying someone anything for installation. You pull the triangular sail panel off the inside of the door (where the tweeter is if you have it), unplug the harness, remove 3 bolts (10mm I think). After that the mirror frame just pops off and you install the new one in reverse order. Jason will color match your mirror so you shouldn't have to do anything other than plug up the new one. If he has it in stock you could probably have it in two days. Once in the mirror will heat up when you turn on the rear defroster. You could replace both or just do one for now.

If you ever wanted to get some of the LED turn signal mirror cover replacements this would also be the time to do that. Now once you replace it make sure to fold your mirrors in whenever you park the car. lol

ORIGINAL: jaimie08mazda3

haha no harm no foul kevin. but that sucks bad. probably was to. cuz alot of guys that i know dont give a **** and drive drunk. me i will never ever do it. im not that stupid. you drink leave the keys at home. your lucky that he only did that to your car cuz it could have been worse then that.

ORIGINAL: kevinlamar
That was some amazing information. When I asked the dealership, they said that they would have to go in through the door panel and fix some crap. But i think thats a crock of ****. Literally the only thing that is broken is the base. I am thinking of a solution, such as getting a piece of clay adhesive glue and molding it on and then sticking my mirror back in its place. Then, if someone knocked it off again, I wouldn't care because I can just stick it back on. But if you know of a place that has instructions on how to replace the mirror, that would be great! I am really thinking of doing it myself because, seriously, if some loser guy without a high school diploma can do it, how hard can it be?

ORIGINAL: Siber Express

If the heated mirrors are like my Explorers it has the same thing on the mirror toward the bottomthe switch does.

[quote author=billm link=topic=18000.msg623429#msg623429 date=1142716732]
OK folks, got the driver's side mirror glass, P/N BP8M-69-1G7 for the USA Left hand drivers side, less than $45 shipped (the other side is BP8M-69-1G1, same price) , and it's installed and working!!
It took me a little bit to figure out the best way to do it, maybe 1.5 hrs, but the next one should take 45min or less.

Pop the triangle tweeeter cover off by grasping it at the top. This pic taken later but you can see the cover hanging down.



mirror is held on to the door by 3 screws (8mm heads) two have been removed in this pic. disconnect the connector by depressing the small tang on the connector with a very small screwdriver or something similar. Don't force the connector off. Carefully remove the entire mirror while removing the last screw



the black wire and green/black wire supply currrent to the mirror. you will see that there are no pins in the mirror portion of the connector to hook to these.



OK, now the mirror is off of the car.
you need to disconnect the mirror-side connector from the mirror housing. use a small screwdriver to depress the tang in the narrow slot and pull out on the connector



there is not a lot of free play so don't pull the connector too far. here it is looking in, these 3 pins are for the two motors for the power mirrors
we are going to add two wires on the other row in the two middle openings, they will then match up with the green/black and black wires on the other half of the connector in the car




no pic of the next step, but you need to remove the old mirror glass. push the glass in at the bottom and right until it won't go in any farther. you will hear the adjusters popping as you do this, but it is OK. grasp the mirror at the top, and pop it off of the 2 small and one large white mounting *****. This is a little tricky, but it will come. alternatively you could pop the small connections loose first by using a wide-blade screwdriver and looking into the gap between the housing and the mirror glass to wedge the mirror loose from the white connecting *****, but don't crack the glass by putting pressure on it directly with the screwdriver. Once these are free, then pull with your hands again to release the large center connectiing ball. It will come loose, and was designed to be removed this way, so be persistent. You can see a pic later showing the back side of the mirror, and inside the outer piece of the housing you will see the mating mounting points.
Whew, don't you feel better Here's a pic of the mounting points on the power mirror motors:



Now,
separate the mirror housing sections by removing the 3 screws on the bottom of the housing in a triangle after prying off the thin triangular cover. No need to remove the other screw on the far left




you can see the existing wiring running between the sections. Routing the new wires should be obvious, you want to follow the existing wires. I would start from the connector side and then into the metal base. You need to pull up on the foam piece around the connector, and at the side of the housing to work the wires through. I used 20Ga wire, but if I was to do it again, I would prob use 22Ga wire. you will need about 16 in of wire for each wire to make things easy, although the wires will end up shorter at the end once we finish the connections





Here's one end routed. the other end of the wires goes into the mirror housing through the hollow metal shaft.



Here's a blurry pic of the pins that are soldered onto the connector side wires and are pushed into the connector. These are .025" square pins used for wirewrapping. I cut the pin down to 13/16" length or so. you can find these also as header pins for .100" center electronic headers.







Push the two pins into the connector being careful to use the center two openings that match up to the female half of the connector wires for mirror power inside the car. You want the length of the pins inside the connector to match the existing pins. Once they do, then use a tight, very small wire tie to tie all of the wires together so the new wires do not slip and shorten the exposed section of the pins when connecting back together. cut off the end of the tie after tightening.



Push the connector back into place, and restore the foam into position. Now we need to put the spade connectors on the other ends of the wires in the mirror housing. leave enough wire so that the new mirror can be easily hooked up, but don't leave a lot of slop. The spade connectors are radioshack narrow female spade crimp-ons, with the red insulators. Crimp or solder them on the ends of the wires. (in the pic below , I just have the red insulation piece on at this point, i separated them to solder).





.

You can now reassemble the mirror housing and remount it to the car, then reconnect the connector halves, first making sure the new pins are aligned to mate properly, and then attach the new wires to the mirror glass connectors on the new mirror. (don't let it drop).

I ended up testing mine before snapping the new mirror into place. wanted to make sure the power mirror connectors did not come loose also. careful not to short anything.
The new mirror gets very warm to the touch after about a minute or two.

Align the new glass properly and then snap it back to the connecting ***** by pushing it back in, starting with the large center ball, then the lower ball, and finally the outer ball.



Follow the same steps for the passenger side.

Clean and adjust your mirrors and enjoy!!!

ORIGINAL: UrbanmanUSA

My 2007 owners manual, page 3-32, references "mirror defroster." I'm not gonna start pulling my car apart to examine wiring (part of the reason I bought a new car was to avoid having to spend my time doing that kind of thing), but I will say I believe I have seen the side mirrors defog when I have turned the rear window defroster on, which is why I posted what I did. Perhaps it was my imagination or some kind of coincidence. I've never felt the mirror to see ifgets warm to the touch, next time I use the rear window defroster, I'll check it out.

If the truth is all the Canadian models have heated mirrors, but none of the cars destined for the USA do, where most of the states do experiencemore than rareperiods of time where there is frost, that would be quirky. A Vancouver, Canada, driver would have heated mirrors, but the Minneapolis driver would not?