Oil Change Interval Question
#12
RE: Oil Change Interval Question
the sludge build-up also has to do with the quality of oil. my dad brought me up on using castrol (dino) and we would rebuild and re-rebuild motors (whether to race or just because we put huge amounts of miles on them) and the castrol would never build up at all but when we would get another car that had regular maintenance on cheap oil, there would always be build-up on everything after 150k or so. cheap oils will buildup whether or not you change on a regular basis.
#13
RE: Oil Change Interval Question
I'm certianly not an expert on oil, but I have spent some time on www.bobistheoilguy.com BITOG forum so I have picked up a few things.
The color of oil isn't really an indicator of it's still working properly. A quality oil should darken from use or the "junk" in the engine isn't being properly suspended and will remain in the engine eventually causing sludge.
If you follow the warranty OCI you should be fine, especially with synthetics. The main reason that synthetics can last longer than conventional is they have natural multi-grade properties so they do not require as many viscosity modifiers that are often the first thing to break down from use. Basically, the viscosity becomes unstable, the oil thins, in conventionals sooner than in synthetics.
I think the 9 hp gain with Royal Purple (www.royalpurple.com)is actually shown on the website. It was an LS1 Camaro engine and they changed all the drivetrain fluids from conventional to synthetic. The % gain really isn't very significant, but it can make a small difference.
I am running Mobil 1 in my MS3 currently and am considering a switch to Redline in the future as it is a Group V Poly-ol Ester base oil that has natural detergent properties, is more resistent to high temperatures, and due to the fact it contains oxygen it has polarity that causes it to be attracted to metal surfaces.
The color of oil isn't really an indicator of it's still working properly. A quality oil should darken from use or the "junk" in the engine isn't being properly suspended and will remain in the engine eventually causing sludge.
If you follow the warranty OCI you should be fine, especially with synthetics. The main reason that synthetics can last longer than conventional is they have natural multi-grade properties so they do not require as many viscosity modifiers that are often the first thing to break down from use. Basically, the viscosity becomes unstable, the oil thins, in conventionals sooner than in synthetics.
I think the 9 hp gain with Royal Purple (www.royalpurple.com)is actually shown on the website. It was an LS1 Camaro engine and they changed all the drivetrain fluids from conventional to synthetic. The % gain really isn't very significant, but it can make a small difference.
I am running Mobil 1 in my MS3 currently and am considering a switch to Redline in the future as it is a Group V Poly-ol Ester base oil that has natural detergent properties, is more resistent to high temperatures, and due to the fact it contains oxygen it has polarity that causes it to be attracted to metal surfaces.
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