Paint Chip Repair
#1
Paint Chip Repair
I've researched this online, just looking for some confirmation.
Had a very small paint chip, about 1/16 of an inch in diameter, not down to metal (black primer showing).
Purchased some touch up paint at the dealer. Iapplied the smallest dab I could, using a pin. It's been curing now (inside, decent temperature) for about a day. It looks quite good,except that itprotrudes out in a slight bubble shape.
My plan is to let it dry for another few days, then gently wet sandthe bubbledown with 600 grit sand paper.
Any contrary suggestions?
Had a very small paint chip, about 1/16 of an inch in diameter, not down to metal (black primer showing).
Purchased some touch up paint at the dealer. Iapplied the smallest dab I could, using a pin. It's been curing now (inside, decent temperature) for about a day. It looks quite good,except that itprotrudes out in a slight bubble shape.
My plan is to let it dry for another few days, then gently wet sandthe bubbledown with 600 grit sand paper.
Any contrary suggestions?
#2
RE: Paint Chip Repair
Hmmm i am no professional with paint, and on my ride i would certainly give it to one to do it for me. But i want to throw this out there and ask something myself. You've touched it with the paint, you've got a dome of sorts, i can imagine what it's like. If you sand it, you'll certanly have the sanded look in the spot, and possible get the surronding area in not uber carefull. So you'd then have to touch it up again, if even just the single spot right? I get a smooth unmarred paint finish to it, but my question is will it not have the same effect of a dome or raised area? The only way i can think of doing it is a prepping of the spot and surronding area and a spray. But then would you tell where new and old meet >.< I'm really curious about this, as I am doing alot of driving that;ll put my Speed3 in harmes way.
#4
RE: Paint Chip Repair
yeah id suggest wet sanding it too...
altho, put the paper around a wooden block, that way you dont get uneven sanding, and expose primer in one spot.
but after u sand it, buff it or wax it, and it should look as good as new... but dont rush it, whatever u do
altho, put the paper around a wooden block, that way you dont get uneven sanding, and expose primer in one spot.
but after u sand it, buff it or wax it, and it should look as good as new... but dont rush it, whatever u do
#5
RE: Paint Chip Repair
Thanks, I don't want a sanded look in one spot, so I will be very careful.
I read on one website a recommendation that says - take little circular pieces of sandpaper, glue them to the eraser end of pencils, and then use these precise instrumentsto sand. Might have to try this, or somehow create something similar.
Another question is, where do I go to buy super gentle sandpaper?
I read on one website a recommendation that says - take little circular pieces of sandpaper, glue them to the eraser end of pencils, and then use these precise instrumentsto sand. Might have to try this, or somehow create something similar.
Another question is, where do I go to buy super gentle sandpaper?
#6
RE: Paint Chip Repair
go to autozone or partsource.... i guess...
but you'll probably want to get some really really fine paper tho... like, 1000grit if not more, so it doesnt make any scratches...
but make sure you soak the paper in water first, and soak the area to be sanded too... and keep a hose nearby
but you'll probably want to get some really really fine paper tho... like, 1000grit if not more, so it doesnt make any scratches...
but make sure you soak the paper in water first, and soak the area to be sanded too... and keep a hose nearby
#7
RE: Paint Chip Repair - Follow Up
ORIGINAL: Draconius
You could buff the paint out with a big buffer, or tape around the exposed area (literally leaving that TINY ***** open) then wet sand with some MUCH higher grade sand paper...do it slowly NOT fast.
You could buff the paint out with a big buffer, or tape around the exposed area (literally leaving that TINY ***** open) then wet sand with some MUCH higher grade sand paper...do it slowly NOT fast.
After sanding, the area I sanded had a very slight cloudy look. I then took a clean cloth, and some polishing compound (turtle wax brand), and polished the area.I used light pressure and regulary cleaned away the polishaftereach couple seconds of polishing. Was able to buff out the cloudy area in less than 5 minutes.
It looks great! Can you tell there was a paint chip? Yes, if you look carefully enough, its bright, and the car is perfectly clean, you can (of course, I know where it is, so I can't help but look for it). But its insignificant. Short of spraying the area (which I do NOT wantto do), I think I got the best results you can get.
Lessons learned: What would I change?
1. I wouldget a book of matches, and use the back end ofmatches, to apply the touch up paint. For second chip I found, this is what I did. I cut out a couple ofthe matches withscissors to give mesome nice flat applicator ends.I was able to apply the paint, use a paper towel to clean off the match stick, and then usethe cleaned flat end of thematchstickto flatten out the bubble of wet paint(scraping away the excess paint). I ended up with no bubble of paint on the second spot. It came out so nicely, I did not need to sand it. Advice would be use very little paint, you probably need less than you think.Other Notes:Keep some paper towels and liquid soap nearby, just in case you apply too much paint (and need to wipe it all off and start again), or accidently drip some paint somewhere else on your car by mistake. I didthis taskindoors, well lit, no wind. My garage was about 55F - I wouldn't do it in conditions any colder. I question whether the paint would cure properly, and bond to thecar,if the temp was below 50F.
2. If I wetsand again after painting, I willgo with 1000 grit sandpaper, to try to keep the clouding effect (and the follow up polishing) to an absolute minimum.
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flipwhip2014
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04-17-2011 09:34 PM