http://motors.desc.shop.ebay.com/i.h...506.m270.l1313

They were a bit less expensive when I bought mine. They may be trying to get rid of old stock so you may want to jump on these ASAP. Avoid the "covers" though. They take much more work and go over the OE cover. Go for the ones that replace to OE. They will look much better in the long run and are easier to install... like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/M47-0...item2c4c749fd0
In fact, this is the same company (Speedline) I got mine from.

Not bad for someone that has a trailer hitch on the back of their 3, huh?
(I just HAD to get that dig in, Alex. It's in my nature. )

 

I like the looks of those, but I'm trying to go alittle more suttle. Hoping my homeade ones will not show too much when the lights are out. I think the silver backing of the lighted part will clash to much seeing as I dont have anything else that color on the side of the car.
They look nice on your white 3, due to the fact they blend alot better, just not sure I would like them on my blue.

Also, I was outruled to buy these by the wife also, she don't like the way they look for some reason. I may be resorting back to these if I royaly mess my homeade ones up. LOL

And I still think your crazy for the whole towing issue. What is the GVWR on these cars anyways?

 

2546lbs. They can't even carry their OWN weight.

 

Sure they can, without passengers, spare tire, jack, tire iron, rear seat, ...

 

Next question...
I'm planning on putting 10 LEDs in each mirror, any tips on how to connect all 10 wires together inside the mirror so I only have to run a single wire of of the housing and through the door?

 

Since most LEDs are not rated for 12v and will burn out immediately at that voltage, you will have to wire them in series-parallel, usually in groups of 3 or 4. So you may want to consider 8 (2x4) or 9 (3x3) LEDs instead of 10.
I suppose you could free wire/solder them like they used to in the old days (it was called point-to-point wiring.) But a better choice would be to have a narrow (as in a strip) PC board bent and made up (etched) to solder them to.
You would have to find someone skilled or handy enough to do that though... like an electronics student.

 

Alternately you could wire a resistor to each LED and then splice them all together and run that to power. Alternately alternately you could get some pre-wired superflux LEDs from oznium.com. They're the same ones I used for my puddle lamps.

 

These are single LED w/ resistors on each one, and about 4in of wire, both hot and ground. So the 12v issue is fine.
Just wanting a solid conection inside the mirror housing that won't be and issue down the road, and something better than a wire nut.

And what the heck is "series-parallel"?, those are two different things there trailer hitch guy. LOL

 

IMO, a seperate, stand-alone resister on each unit is just going to complicate the issues of available space.
I would trash those and do a series-parallel, or use icspots suggestion and get a set of "puddle" lights. (<<< funny name. LOL)

 

That sounds like roughly what I used for my puddle lamps. There's a little space behind the plastic cover that you should be able to coil any excess wires up. That said like Richard pointed out you're going to be pressed for space to cram 8-10 of those in there.

As an example here's a picture from m3f. A member installed eight pre-wired superflux LEDs (what I used) in each fog surround as DRLs and then just spliced all the wiring together. He has them separated because he did four white and four amber (white as DRL and amber with the parking lights). You can see how large the wiring bundle is there.



I think what Richard means by "series-parallel" is that you'd wire several LED clusters (either 3 or four) with the LEDs in each cluster wired in series with a resistor. Then wire the individual clusters in parallel.