Just wondering about wheels and tire combos for a 2004-up Mazda 3 GT. Am I correct 16" is the smallest rim size you can put on a GT with the 2.3L engine? And for summers if I went 19" wheels, what is the max tire size one can put on the car? I was looking at a set of 245/30/19 tires, but not sure if those are too wide to fit. I suspect the 19" wheel will have a lower offset then the stock 52mm offset. Maybe closer to 40 or 45. Other possible tire sizes would be 215/35/19, 225/35/19, and 235/30/19. Which one is the widest you can go with?

 

Please see my reply to this same post on MazdaWorld.org.

 

summer tires, I like Falken Azenis http://www.falkentire.com/Tires/Pass...enis-RT-615-14

For wheels. I am a HUGE fan of the Advan RS or RZ. A bit pricey though. You can do a knock off of the RS with the Rota G-Force. Do an 18x9 +30 off set and wrap those in the azenis 265x35R18.

 

Whoa! +30 is waayyy off the path from the OE +52.5. That would be pushing the wheels out on each side by nearly an inch, 2"s in total. That's a huge change in geometry. How would you compensate the front tracking? The change in weight transfer, and all the other angles? Bump steer and tracking would be horrible, not to mention scrub!!
Personally, I am not a big fan of getting that much away from factory specs. To me, that's just asking for trouble.
I would try to stay to at least +45.

 

The Mazda 3 and the Subaru WRX STi share the same bolt pattern and offset. (well +52 is Subaru instead of +52.5, but close enough) I come from the subaru world where everything is way more aggressive than here. People very commonly put a +29 on their Subarus. All you do is cut, pull and roll the fenders

I would add Coilovers with Rear camber plates and would probably run a -2.5 Deg. camber all of the way around. I think it would be SUPER bad to see a mazda 3 running with the above mentioned wheel/tire combo.

 

just so you know, 17in is the max rim diameter you can go before you need a speedo recalibration, oh and if you have abs and you go too big of a wheel expect for the abs and possibly traction control light to come on. also if you have too wide of a tire on the 3 your gonna put major stress on the axles among other things....like your trans, along with the ****ty handling that comes with it. and once again coilovers are highly unnecessary if your looking for a good drop and improved handling, a good set of springs and shocks (NOT JUST SPRINGS) will be good enough for autoX, circuit, etc. and still have a comfortable ride for a daily. we dont drive vw's (thank god) so the huge offsets dont work as well

 

Well I know what I have planned for My Mazda. I will put my Stock STi rims on the Mazda (same bolt pattern, similar offset +52, 17x8) with Falken Azenis in a 235/40R17.

BC Inverted Coilovers w/rear camber plates because they destroy springs in every way (In my opinion) and don't really cost that much more.

Slotted Rotors, Hawk pads, Super blue race brake fluid, SS Brake lines

Hotchkiss F+R anti-Sways

Then for my 5 more hp. Vibrant Exhaust Manifold and exhaust, F2 Intake.

Back on topic...

I haven't dealt with Mazda modifications/wheels much. But I am sure with some cutting, pulling of fenders and rolling of fenders, things could get a bit more aggressive. I think a safe range would be a 17x8 +45, maybe as low as a +40, more aggressive with some pulling, cutting, rolling... You could squeeze some 18x9's.

 

While I am not a fan of reducing braking performance and steering response caused by oversized wheels, I feel compelled to point out that there are a number of 19" wheel/tire combinations that will work on a Mazda3 without any recalibration.

Consider the following (using my 2009 Mazda3 as an example):
205/50 R17 -- Overall Diameter: 25.1" -- Revs per mile: 827
215/35 R19 -- Overall Diameter: 24.9" -- Revs per mile: 833

 

i was just going by what the service manual stated

stamas its not the matter of making it fit, its the matter of making sure your not going to destroy or reduce the performance the other involved components, and again i have to ask as to why get coilovers as well as the slotted rotors, brake fluid, and ss lines, not a single one of those makes sense to buy unless your just looking for style. its not an opinion its a fact

 

Actually it is an opinion. You see, I Track (road course) my cars.

Coilovers significantly help the cars rotation through corners. I can adjust the stiffness for the track and then after I am done pounding on the car I can then soften them up for a very comfortable drive home.

Slotted Rotors do look pleasing to the eye, but the also serve a function for better cooling which also increases long term braking. I get less brake fade and a better bite.

Brake Fluid and Stainless Steel lines, this allows for better pressure and pedal response while braking. Plus it is very cheap.

The reason for the bigger/wider rims is for bigger wider rubber. This also allows for better traction, turn in and apex exit speeds. You can't adjust camber as well with springs, so again coilovers are the better option (provided you get the rear camber plates). Coilovers are only a couple hundred dollars more than springs. You can adjust height, camber, stiffness. Can you do that with springs?

Yes, they make sense to buy. It just depends on what people are using the car for . Plus it looks bad A!