Post DIY Q&A Here:

Mazda5 Repair Manual:

 

The fix.

[IMG]local://upfiles/8780/F153ADD389A14DFAA876E17DBBAB0AAF.jpg[/IMG]

 

dude, you are my hero. THANK YOU FOR THE LINK, the file hosting, the manual, you name it.

Burning this to disk just as soon as it DL's

 

Awesome, thanks for posting........

 

Brilliant - I don't suppose you can do the "DY" model Mazda 2 can you (I know it's not sold in the US)

 

Wish I could get a 2. I'll see if I can find a manual.

 

We recently bought our 2007 Mazda 5 and I would like to have a copy of that manual. It's not working for me from that DL site (even though I registered and all). Is there another link or mirrored site where I can get it?

Getting ready to do my 1st oil change on it and already noticed the filter is different than what I am used to.

THANX!!!

 

Does your 5 have the cartridge filter or a spin-on type?
Perhaps I can help.

 

The one I picked up at the autoparts is an STP cartridge. I have seen these on BMWs and it's a mess doing them, though I have never done one. They say it's not as messy and that it will be obvious to me, when I go to do it. Would still like to get familiar with the process and what to watch out for.

I also have a couple of other project cars, so am fairly mechanically inclined. Still wouldn't mind having the factory service manual handy.

 

Yeah, well don't let me disparage you but it's still a pretty messy job.
1) OK, remove the center splash shield. If you're wise you will figure out where the oil filter housing is in relation to the factory inspection hole in it and increase the size of that hole to include the oil filter at this point. That way you do not have to deal w/the splash shield every time.
2) There is an aluminum plug w/an o-ring at the bottom of the filter housing to help make the job a little less messy. Remove it to drainmost of the oil from the housing.
3) There is a special tool, a wrench or socket that fits the housing itself. If like me you do not have one you may CAREFULLY use a soft strap wrench. My own is made of treated canvas and as long as I'm careful w/it, no problems so far. Remember that the housing is plastic so be careful todistribute the pressure as much as possible using this method.
4) Remove the cartridge and o-rings and replace them w/the new ones. Be sure to use a little oil on them before you reinstall the housing or drain plug.
5) Add oil to the filter and the housing to... well you know.
6) Screw the filter housing back on by hand until it's snug. Do Not Over tighten it.Besides, it's not necessary. It seal s pretty easily.
7) Fill the engine w/4 qts of fresh oil, start the engine and check for leaks.
8) Shut the engine off, wait a few minutes and check the level. It will probably be about 1 pint low. Top it off and you're done!!

I'm being ridiculously detailed here and I do not mean to be condescending in the least.If you are mechanically inclined and have worked on cars before, much of this will be almost second nature to you, I'm sure.