Installed battery, now horn blaring and all electrical accessories are on!
#12
01-09-2014 | 02:19 PM
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2013
Posts: 8
I've got my car back now and it's running fine. The cause of the problem: I installed the new battery backwards (i.e. positive cable to negative post, negative cable to positive post. After re-installing the battery the correct way:
- I replaced the blown 15A fuse for the interior overhead lights;
- Confirmed that all electrical accessories worked;
- Re-programmed the keys and remotes so they communicated with the car's computer;
- Attempted to start the car. All instrument panel lights indicated that the anti-theft system was accepting the keys;
- There was no sound from the starter solenoid/relay therefore no engine cranking - no start.
- Towed the car to the dealer.
What the dealer did:
- Determined that the main fuse inline with the positive cable had blown; Installed a new main fuse; started the engine; determined that the power steering was not working; mechanic tried but was not able to configure (program) and activate the power steering electronic control module; price of a new power steering control module and motor unit: $1,400 (!); I suggested looking for a used one; they found one for $500. The mechanic decided to swap the used control module and install it on my (original) power steering pump. I was charged 2½ hours labor plus the price of the parts.
I was fortunate that none of the other control modules (i.e. electronic modules) were damaged.
- I replaced the blown 15A fuse for the interior overhead lights;
- Confirmed that all electrical accessories worked;
- Re-programmed the keys and remotes so they communicated with the car's computer;
- Attempted to start the car. All instrument panel lights indicated that the anti-theft system was accepting the keys;
- There was no sound from the starter solenoid/relay therefore no engine cranking - no start.
- Towed the car to the dealer.
What the dealer did:
- Determined that the main fuse inline with the positive cable had blown; Installed a new main fuse; started the engine; determined that the power steering was not working; mechanic tried but was not able to configure (program) and activate the power steering electronic control module; price of a new power steering control module and motor unit: $1,400 (!); I suggested looking for a used one; they found one for $500. The mechanic decided to swap the used control module and install it on my (original) power steering pump. I was charged 2½ hours labor plus the price of the parts.
I was fortunate that none of the other control modules (i.e. electronic modules) were damaged.
#14
01-29-2019 | 12:36 AM
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2019
Posts: 1
From: NY
Ran into this issue after installing a new battery backwards (never install a battery in the middle of the night without light lol). Push start did not work, along with advanced key fob, power windows, power locks, lights, radio, bose, etc..
I blew out the main fuse (and a couple others) but the ECU/PCM was safe. This happened in a 2009 Mazda6, but I'd bet the electricals are similar. Also, the alternator probably received some kind of damage/wear because it's not protected by the 125A Main Fuse.
Edit: All dashboard lights were on and headlights worked
I blew out the main fuse (and a couple others) but the ECU/PCM was safe. This happened in a 2009 Mazda6, but I'd bet the electricals are similar. Also, the alternator probably received some kind of damage/wear because it's not protected by the 125A Main Fuse.
Edit: All dashboard lights were on and headlights worked
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Diver9
Mazda3
0
04-14-2012 11:03 AM
jackrabbitpunch
General Tech
0
08-11-2011 10:42 AM
sf49ers
Mazda Protege
5
10-20-2007 12:14 AM
