I bought my Mazda 6 brand new and it's been outstanding with 161,000 miles on it. I have it serviced regularly and have changed the serpentine belt. It's in the shop today getting new Monroe struts and shocks installed, then new tires. Should I have the timing chain replaced? I read that the transmission is sealed..correct? So no flush possible? What about the CV joints? Any other items need replacing? I've never had such a trouble free car and want to be proactive and drive it another 100,000 miles.

One annoying item is my headliner is sagging at both rear pillars near the back glass. Anyone have experience on the best repair? Glue? Thanks in advance!

 

I have a 2006 Mazda 6 V6 Automatic and have had my fluid flushed and filled with synthetic every 30,000 miles!
Headliner, try closed cell spray foam, stuff that expands minimally. I did it on mine and no more roof rattle with 2 15" subs - and I have a big F'n roof (wagon).
Can't comment about timing chain or cv.
Change your PCV valve and hose.
Put some lacquer thinner in your gas tank (1 gal for about 1/2 tank of gas) it will help clean your catalytic and make your car run good.
Clean your throttle body and MAF sensor.

 

new Monroe struts and shocks installed, then new tires.

I like Monroe Sense-A-trak for my everyday application. Make sure they do a good job with the wheel alignment. That includes the steering wheel.

the transmission is sealed..correct? So no flush possible?

Does that mean your transmission fluid is 160000 miles old? I hope not. If it is that old a transmission flush can lead to the demise of the transmission. The new fluid will take the varnish off the inside wall of the transmission and that stuff will clog oil passages.
If you had your transmission serviced every 30000 miles than the next service is due at 180000.
CV joints and timing chain: if it isn't broke don't fix it.
How old is your coolant? and water pump?
How old is your brake fluid? It should be changes every 2-3 years.
That lacquer thinner (NOT PAINT THINNER!) really worked wonders for my Protege of similar high mileage.

Good points by Noggin.

 

Thanks much guys!! Now the bad news: I have never had the trans serviced as my mechanic said it was sealed like a BMW and does not need flush or drain..obviously time to hunt for a new mechanic. So instead of a flush, would a drain and fill be safe? Stupid me..I've been around cars enough to know it did not sound right.
And no, I have not changed the coolant, water pump, or the valve mentioned above. Mea culpa, mea culpa!
The car has been incredibly reliable and I owe it big time. Thanks for the straight scoop. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. And that foam spray sounds good for the headliner..thanks. And yes, SensaTrac struts and the same brand of shock on the rear.

 

2006 Mazda 6 GG & GY should still have a dip stick, at least the NZ & Jap spec does. It has no set set service interval, but should be inspected every service and recommended when the oil gets old & dirty, most mechanics at my dealership are too lazy to recommend stuff.

Even the 2008 GH & 2013 GJ model has a dip stick, its very very short and hidden down the back of the trans by the firewall.

 

As far as transmission flush and fill is concerned, there are lines going to the rad that can be accessed. This would be a good time to upgrade to an external cooler and synthetic fluid as well: How often should the automatic transmission fluid... — Yahoo! Autos

 

Now the bad news: I have never had the trans serviced as my mechanic said it was sealed like a BMW and does not need flush or drain..obviously time to hunt for a new mechanic. So instead of a flush, would a drain and fill be safe? Stupid me..I've been around cars enough to know it did not sound right.

I really don't know what would be the best way to proceed. There are several schools of thought and it seems there is no right way.

1st I would try to find out what Mazda has put in. Hopefully synthetic.

Then read through this:

Transmission Fluid Exchange/Flush—It’s good for your transmission if it’s done the right way

Clean transmission fluid is vital to your transmission’s performance and, well, it’s life. Transmission fluid lubricates metal parts, carries heat out of the transmission, and contains friction additives to make sure your shifts are smooth and on-time. Just as important as the friction additives, transmission fluid also contains detergent additives that prevent deposits from forming on critical metal parts and carries.


But transmission fluid has a limited life. Over time, the fluid begins to break down and lose its ability to lubricate. When that happens, metal parts heat up and the heat scorches the fluid—just like scorched butter in a frying pan. That scorched fluid is referred to as varnish because of its brownish appearance.


For decades, the proper way to change transmission fluid was to remove the pan, drain the fluid, and replace the filter. Unfortunately, this procedure only removed about one-third of the total fluid in the transmission. The new fluid would mix with the old and the detergents in the new fluid would dissolve any varnish deposits in the transmission. Those deposits would be trapped by the transmission filter.


Today, several equipment companies make transmission flush machines that force fresh fluid into one of the transmission cooler lines and catch the old fluid. Some equipment companies refer to this procedure a “fluid exchange.” That term is correct in theory. In practice, however, it’s a bit misleading.


To understand why, picture a swimming pool filled with dark blue water. Then imagine what would happen if you took a garden hose and began filling the pool with clear water. The clear water would start to displace and dilute the dark blue water. But it would take a LOT of clear water to replace all the blue water.


Get the picture? When these fluid flushing machines inject fresh fluid, it isn’t like a rigid wall of fluid pushes all the old fluid out. Instead, it dilutes the old fluid. The average automatic transmission holds 10-13 quarts of fluid.


Reputable shops that use the fluid flush machines know that it takes at least 16 quarts of fluid to get close to that 100% target. So, when you get the quote for a transmission fluid flush, ask how much fluid they plan to use.


All fluids are not created equal
Each car manufacturer has different specifications for their transmission fluid. Using the wrong fluid in your transmission and you can cause harsh shifting, late shifting, or the early demise of your transmission. In fact, GM, Chrysler, Ford, Toyota, and many other car makers have recently introduced synthetic transmission fluids that outperform the older fluids by a long shot.


Unfortunately, these new synthetic fluids are fairly expensive—usually double-to-triple the cost of the older fluids. That’s an important factor if your shop is quoting you on a fluid flush. Why? Because many fluid flush machines use an inexpensive generic Dexron fluid as the flush fluid. Once the flush is completed, the shop adds a bottle of “fluid converter” to modify the friction characteristics of the fluid to match the car manufacturer’s recommendations. Not a single car manufacturer recommends this procedure! That’s right, they want you to use the real thing. If drive a late model Ford, and your manual calls for Mercon V, you better put Mercon V back in it or you could void your warranty! Try telling the dealer that the “fluid converter” magically turned a generic fluid into Mercon V. It won’t work.


The same holds true for GM’s new Dexron VI and Chrysler’s new ATF+4 fluids.


The filter. The filter. The filter.


Car manufacturers install a transmission filter for a reason—to trap any particulate matter and prevent it from clogging transmission valves. Most shops that offer a transmission fluid flush service do not change the filter. Here’s what the Filter Manufacturers Council has to say about that practice:


“There have been an increasing number of instances surfacing recently regarding transmission failures shortly after an evacuation service, without filter removal. At the time of a fluid evacuation service, there is no way to know the condition of the filter and how clogged it may be. The filters job is to collect and hold contaminants, (dirt, metal filings, friction particles, etc.), and prevent these particles from causing malfunction in such components as electronic force motors and solenoids.


Today's transmissions are far more susceptible to malfunctions caused by fine dirt contamination. Without servicing the filter, there is no way to know if the filter is clean of debris or nearing capacity. If the filter is nearing capacity, transmission failure may not be far off. This is also a sign that there may be other internal problems in the transmission. Recognizing these warning signs could eliminate major service later.
Most of the transmission failures after an evacuation service have occurred primarily on relatively high mileage transmissions that have not been serviced in some time. One reason for this is that the sludge and dirt buildup within the transmission will not completely be removed during the service. When the new fluid (which has detergent properties) is placed in the transmission, over days and weeks, the internal components begin to wash the insides of the transmission.


This sludge does finally work loose and settles in the transmission filter, clogging it up even further than it may have been before service. In these extreme cases, where service has not been performed in some time, changing the filter may not completely fix the problem. Some mechanics recommend a second service a few weeks after the first, replacing the filter again, which may be partially clogged due to the cleaning process in the transmission.


Even if the fluid evacuation method is desired to remove the used transmission fluid, the pan should be removed also, and an inspection should be made of the pan contents, fluid, and filter to determine the condition of the transmission. Aluminum filings in the pan or iron filings on the pan magnet are signs of internal wear and may give light to potential problems in the transmission.
Transmission service is performed for preventative maintenance. Evaluating the overall condition of the transmission by removing the pan should be part of this preventative maintenance also.”


Source: Filter Manufacturers Council
Technical Service Bulletin 98-2
June 1998
http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/98-2.html
Here’s what you need to know when it’s time to change fluid


If your shop offers a transmission fluid flush service, insist on these procedures:


1) The flush must be done with the manufacturer’s recommended fluid—not a generic fluid and a magic “converter.”


2) Insist that the shop use 50% more flush fluid than the maximum capacity of your transmission. That will get you close to the 100% mark.


3) Insist that they drop the pan, examine any deposits, and change the filter.


Or,


Opt for the traditional approach of just dropping the pan, draining the fluid, and changing the filter. Just do this procedure more often than the manufacturer recommends since it doesn’t remove all the old fluid.


© 2007, Rick Muscoplat

 

THANK YOU! Question: why a external cooler? Assuming it will help keep the temps down? And since I live in California with hot summers, this would be added protection..yes? Hoping a mechanic will know how to install a cooler. So either method of servicing the trans could be risky? Is the drop the pan, change the filter (or clean the filter), then refill, less risky? Then a followup change a few months later using the same method?
Thanks again.
Btw, my new struts/shocks make a BIG difference! The mechanic said the old ones were completely shot. My parts from Amazon and his labor (at $250.) for the install/parts was right at $420. Compare that to the quote from a Mazda dealer (using OEM parts, don't know the brand) who wanted $978.00!

 

You need to read the link I provided you (all of it) as it discusses lifespan of oils and cooling. Click on this: How often should the automatic transmission fluid... — Yahoo! Autos

Chances are flushing now without previous flushing may be a no no. An external cooler is better protection especially in California. A few drain and fills is good. Talk to your local tranny shop (a few of them).
I would rather buy aftermarket as opposed to Mazda if at all possible. My ignition coils have twice the output as Mazda and are less than 1/2 price!

 

Transmission cooler: yes, the purpose is to keep the temperature of the tranny fluid lower. There is a direct connection between temperature and the useful life of the fluid. In your case I would hold off on adding a cooler. It has been o.k. for this many miles.

Tranny service: I suggest you discuss this with your mechanic. The risk is that an input of fresh detergents will remove varnish that has built up on the inner walls. Drop the pan and change the filter is going to be less risky than a 100% flush. He may be able to see if there is a lot of varnish build up (endoscope?). By the way the CD4E transmission does not have any filter, only a screen. (But I don't know if you have a CD4E). If Mazda put a synthetic in there may not be all that much varnish and the risk may be limited. If there is a lot of varnish you should set aside some money for a transmission replacement and keep driving with the old fluid.

Struts: excellent! I use dealer service only for safety recalls for exactly this reason. A good independent mechanic is saving you thousands!