Bouncy
#1
Bouncy
It might be my imagination but I think my 05 Mazda 6 Sport (4 cylinder 2.3 Hatchback) with 24,000 miles on the clock might be a bit more bouncy than it used to be. I don't have quite the same road-holding confidence I once had and wondered if there is something I should ask the dealer to look out for at my 25,000 mile service coming up. Also - difficult to describe in words but I wonder if the steering/suspension feels a bit 'knocky' - there is sometimes a quiet (even slight) knock that is more felt than heard when pulling away . Everything else seems fine - driving at speed, gear changes, clutch etc all fine. I have 17" wheels with Avon ZZ3 tyres on front (10,000miles) and the original Bridgestone Potenza tyres still on the back - pressures all OK cold at 32psi all round).
Any thoughts?
If the dealer declares it to be OK are there any adjustments they can make that won't cost me an arm and a leg to safely harden up the suspension anyway?
Any thoughts?
If the dealer declares it to be OK are there any adjustments they can make that won't cost me an arm and a leg to safely harden up the suspension anyway?
#2
RE: Bouncy
If you go to a drop spring, it would most likely be a little stiffer, you can get stiffer anti-roll bars.
You may be feeling a difference between your front/rear tires. Have you ever rotated them? I assume the first 14,000 miles had matching Bridgestones up front to match the rears. Tires make a big difference in how a vehicle behaves. Why did you replace the front tires after only 14,000 miles?
You may be feeling a difference between your front/rear tires. Have you ever rotated them? I assume the first 14,000 miles had matching Bridgestones up front to match the rears. Tires make a big difference in how a vehicle behaves. Why did you replace the front tires after only 14,000 miles?
#3
RE: Bouncy
[quote]
Why did you replace the front tires after only 14,000 miles?
[unquote]
Coz they were nearly worn down to the legal limit (i do tend to drive it quite hard) -and then someone thought it would be funny to let them down while the car was in a car park and I drove on them before I noticed damaging the offside one - so they both got replaced about a 1000miles earlier than they probably needed. I bought the car soon after but at the time of tyre replacement the car was on contract hire and the hire company knew I was going to buy the car so put on the cheapest they could find. If they wear at the rate of the first lot they'll be up for replacement soon.
But as you say, it might be worth putting the back ones on the front to see how it feels.
Regards,
Jon
Why did you replace the front tires after only 14,000 miles?
[unquote]
Coz they were nearly worn down to the legal limit (i do tend to drive it quite hard) -and then someone thought it would be funny to let them down while the car was in a car park and I drove on them before I noticed damaging the offside one - so they both got replaced about a 1000miles earlier than they probably needed. I bought the car soon after but at the time of tyre replacement the car was on contract hire and the hire company knew I was going to buy the car so put on the cheapest they could find. If they wear at the rate of the first lot they'll be up for replacement soon.
But as you say, it might be worth putting the back ones on the front to see how it feels.
Regards,
Jon
#4
RE: Bouncy
I attempted to swap the Avon ZZ3 tyres on front with the original Bridgestone Potenza tyres from the back just to see what it feels like.
But I couldn't get the offside front wheel off! The nuts were very tight but I got those off but the wheel itself just wouldn't budge and I didn't want to wrestle too much with it as I only have thesmall roadside jack that came with the car. Could be embarrassing/difficult if I get a puncture out on the road! I might have to call someone out just to change a wheel.
But I couldn't get the offside front wheel off! The nuts were very tight but I got those off but the wheel itself just wouldn't budge and I didn't want to wrestle too much with it as I only have thesmall roadside jack that came with the car. Could be embarrassing/difficult if I get a puncture out on the road! I might have to call someone out just to change a wheel.
#5
RE: Bouncy
If you have a spare tire/wheel lying around (or something of similar weight), take all of the lug nuts off, and with the car jacked up, swing the spare tire into the one mounted on the car. (It doesn't take a ton of momentum to get it to break free, but you want the tire in your hands in the same orientation as the one on the car, and try to get the tires to impact at the 6 o'clock position on the tire.) Old school mechanics trick
You get contact corrosion between the rotors and the aluminum wheels and that is what is sticking.
You get contact corrosion between the rotors and the aluminum wheels and that is what is sticking.
#6
RE: Bouncy
why would u have different tires in the front/rear? thats not good
my dad (who isnt into cars at all) has Michelins up front and Bridgestones in the rear on his '03 accord
and at higher speeds, its jittery/bouncy as well.
invest a few hundred into a set of 4 new tires. itll make a difference
www.edgeracing.com or www.discounttiredirect.com all have good tires @ bargain prices.
hope this helps.
my dad (who isnt into cars at all) has Michelins up front and Bridgestones in the rear on his '03 accord
and at higher speeds, its jittery/bouncy as well.
invest a few hundred into a set of 4 new tires. itll make a difference
www.edgeracing.com or www.discounttiredirect.com all have good tires @ bargain prices.
hope this helps.
#7
RE: Bouncy
Not tried these on any car, but Koni do them for the Mazda 6 and they are getting rave reviews. Koni FSD - frequency selective damping - very stiff for low frequency suspension movements like entering a bend, soft for high frequency movements like rough roads, bumps etc. Manages both behaviours at the same time which results in improved grip on cornering as the rubber is kept in contact with the road better.
http://www.koni.com/FSD/index.html
Better handling, grip and ride all at the same time on standard springs etc. No good if you want to drop the car for looks. Awesome GTI Manchester UK stock them for £315
Let us know what you think if you do it, I may be trying them on a non-Mazda soon.
http://www.koni.com/FSD/index.html
Better handling, grip and ride all at the same time on standard springs etc. No good if you want to drop the car for looks. Awesome GTI Manchester UK stock them for £315
Let us know what you think if you do it, I may be trying them on a non-Mazda soon.
#10
RE: Bouncy
ORIGINAL: sstlaure
If you have a spare tire/wheel lying around (or something of similar weight), take all of the lug nuts off, and with the car jacked up, swing the spare tire into the one mounted on the car. (It doesn't take a ton of momentum to get it to break free, but you want the tire in your hands in the same orientation as the one on the car, and try to get the tires to impact at the 6 o'clock position on the tire.) Old school mechanics trick
You get contact corrosion between the rotors and the aluminum wheels and that is what is sticking.
If you have a spare tire/wheel lying around (or something of similar weight), take all of the lug nuts off, and with the car jacked up, swing the spare tire into the one mounted on the car. (It doesn't take a ton of momentum to get it to break free, but you want the tire in your hands in the same orientation as the one on the car, and try to get the tires to impact at the 6 o'clock position on the tire.) Old school mechanics trick
You get contact corrosion between the rotors and the aluminum wheels and that is what is sticking.
In your wet climate of Northern England it should be a necessity.