One of my smart key fobs will not allow the car to start, it will open doors windows, alarm etc. also the red light won’t flash like the other key. Is there a way to reset this so it will work? 2007 mx5 GT Tks
Jm1

 

Hi All,
I joined this forum as I am experiencing similar issues. 2009 Mazda 6. I am willing to REWARD someone who can help resolve my issue.I am hopelessly lost on an no-start issue with my car after it came back from an airbag recall. I will bulletize the summary and go into detail for those that think they can help me.

• Car: 2009 Mazda 6 iTouring i4 2.5L, 150k mi. I am the original owner.
  
• Issue: The push button start is not responding. The car will NOT go into Acc/On/Start. Car will not click, crank, or go into Acc/On Mode. Pushing the start button does nothing. No relay sounds, no pump sounds, nothing.
  
• Remote Fob: CR2025 battery replaced. Lock/unlock, panic and trunk release buttons work properly. red light on the fob flashes when I push the START button. I do NOT have a second key.
  
• Inserting the Physical Aux Key into the key cylinder generates repeating 2 beep sounds (door open reminder) but does nothing else. The cylinder is not a tumbler so it does not rotate. The car requires the push button to Acc/On/Start.
  
• Holding the fob close to the Start button does nothing. I am not entirely sure if this is even a feature in my car but I’ve read on forums that this could work.
  
• I have installed a brand new battery. I also tried to jump start which made absolutely no difference.
  
• Main Electrical bus systems work (headlights, hazards, brake lights, dome lights, horn, lock/unlock buttons)
  
• I’ve checked all fuses under the hood and by the driver footwell. I've also checked some of the relays.
  
• Lightly pressing the brake pedal turns the Start button Green, but pushing the button makes the light go red, then off when I release the button. I'm taking this as indication that the car does detect the key.
  
• Further pressing the brake makes the Start Button go red. I initially thought it was a faulty brake switch, but I have eliminated this as a cause because the brake lights work.
  
• I have checked the brake switch for operation. I even removed the switch and shorted the connections with no success.
  
• The car Start Button does not cycle through Acc/On/Off even when not pressing the Brake pedal. (further confirmation that it is not brake switch related)
  
• The car seems to recognize the key in the cabin since pressing the brake pedal without a key present elicits no red light on the star button whatsoever.
  

I am attaching a link to a video that might help explain the behavior the car is exhibiting:


So here’s the brief history: Due to Covid and work-from-home, the car sat unused for an extended period of time to the point the battery died. I decided to take it off the road entirely or “withdraw from use” is what it’s called where it’s insured but not permitted on the road. I figured I would take care of the Air Bag safety recall before doing so. I removed the battery, charged it over several days, and drove it to the dealership without incident.

Dealer called me later to inform me that they could not start the car at the end of the day when I was supposed to collect the car. It was stuck in their maintenance bay. I mentioned the battery may be weak since it had died before. They confirmed and said they had to jump the car to get it into their work bay. Ok I thought, simple issue to resolve even though the battery is less than 2 years old (7/19 is the mfg date). I went there to see if it was a trivial issue but ended up not taking the car home that day.

The Dealer ended up keeping it over the weekend. Concluded and told me the key somehow lost programming and had to reprogram the key fob. They said they have seen this happen once before. They said the battery was left charging over the weekend the tester showed it as fully healthy.

I was able to collect the car after hours on Monday and drive it home without incident, or so I thought…

After returning home and shutting down the car, I remembered I had to take a picture of the odometer for my insurance hiatus. I pressed the button to turn the car on and here is where I am today. It’s been nearly 4 weeks of head scratching to figure out what is going on.

I am currently working with the dealer for reconciliation, but it’s more aggravation than I need. Of course they're not assuming any responsibility.

Anyone have any idea what could be causing this?
Thanks.

 

Is step 5 an error as the drivers door should still be open from Step 1? It should read, "close and open"