Mazda 6 Timing Chain plus more problems at 50K mileage
#31
Timing chain calibration
A big update: finally got the car sorted out and it works like a charm. I really love it and how it drives, now that it's finally OK.
And some more details to the story: the explanation for the FAI kit not working is that my dear mechanic did not even bother to mount it (at least not on my car). He did bother to charge me for it, however....seems I am like a magnet for rip-offs.
I took the car to a friend's garage and we looked inside: the chain slack was obvious, and the chain slider really did not look like new. So I bought another kit, we mounted it and immediately noticed the new chain was a really tight fit.
With high hopes we started the engine, drove around for half an hour and then did the well known 'oil change' reset. But as soon as the engine was restarted, the damn DPF light started flashing again. Checked with Forscan for "actual crankshaft/camshaft.." thingy: it was showing around 8° with hot engine, so well below the 10.5° limit (as expected) Still the damn light kept on flashing...
What to do?
And then I happend to read here:
Mazda6 P1336 fault (timing chain))
about some sort of timing chain calibration..
So I tried that, some lights started flashing in my dashboard, the engine changed sound and pace a few times, then after a couple of minutes, all came back to regular idling. I turned it off, removed the wire, then restarted the engine. Et voila: no more DPF flashing, and all is fine!
Summarizing this, I have one more question:
I'd like to do an injector calibration, but I read confusing information regarding the procedure. Some folks say it's working for the 2.2 engine, others that it only works on the 2.0 one. Any ideas?
Thanks and regards,
Radu
And some more details to the story: the explanation for the FAI kit not working is that my dear mechanic did not even bother to mount it (at least not on my car). He did bother to charge me for it, however....seems I am like a magnet for rip-offs.
I took the car to a friend's garage and we looked inside: the chain slack was obvious, and the chain slider really did not look like new. So I bought another kit, we mounted it and immediately noticed the new chain was a really tight fit.
With high hopes we started the engine, drove around for half an hour and then did the well known 'oil change' reset. But as soon as the engine was restarted, the damn DPF light started flashing again. Checked with Forscan for "actual crankshaft/camshaft.." thingy: it was showing around 8° with hot engine, so well below the 10.5° limit (as expected) Still the damn light kept on flashing...
What to do?
And then I happend to read here:
Mazda6 P1336 fault (timing chain))
about some sort of timing chain calibration..
So I tried that, some lights started flashing in my dashboard, the engine changed sound and pace a few times, then after a couple of minutes, all came back to regular idling. I turned it off, removed the wire, then restarted the engine. Et voila: no more DPF flashing, and all is fine!
Summarizing this, I have one more question:
I'd like to do an injector calibration, but I read confusing information regarding the procedure. Some folks say it's working for the 2.2 engine, others that it only works on the 2.0 one. Any ideas?
Thanks and regards,
Radu
I have a 2010 mazda 3 2.2 185bhp model, dpf light flashing with the p1336 code so changed the chain and it's still flashing, changed the cam and crank sensors and it's still flashing, had the service reset, dpf checked and it's fine, oil just changed with the chain so it's not diluted... ran out of things to do now!!! Thinking it must be the chain calibration but there is no where online that says how to do it? Thanks a lot if you can help!
#32
Hi how did you do the timing chain calibration?
I have a 2010 mazda 3 2.2 185bhp model, dpf light flashing with the p1336 code so changed the chain and it's still flashing, changed the cam and crank sensors and it's still flashing, had the service reset, dpf checked and it's fine, oil just changed with the chain so it's not diluted... ran out of things to do now!!! Thinking it must be the chain calibration but there is no where online that says how to do it? Thanks a lot if you can help!
I have a 2010 mazda 3 2.2 185bhp model, dpf light flashing with the p1336 code so changed the chain and it's still flashing, changed the cam and crank sensors and it's still flashing, had the service reset, dpf checked and it's fine, oil just changed with the chain so it's not diluted... ran out of things to do now!!! Thinking it must be the chain calibration but there is no where online that says how to do it? Thanks a lot if you can help!
1. Start the engine and idle it. (Needs to be warm)
2. Ground the check connector terminal as shown in the figure using the jumper wire.
conector.jpg
3. Depress and release the clutch pedal and the brake pedal simultaneously 5 times within 5 s.
Hope all works well for you!
#33
In other news, after about 15kKm of fun with the car, the DPF got clogged, and after cleaning it I still have P0133 - O2 sensor slow response error.
Is this the sensor located just after the DPF? Or should I have a closer look at the exhaust manifold? Thanks!
Is this the sensor located just after the DPF? Or should I have a closer look at the exhaust manifold? Thanks!
#34
See thread: mazda 6 diesel dies at 50000klm
Hi steve, had very similar issues with my diesel. Injectors leaked fuel into the oil system diluting it to the point where it wasnt lubrcating enough . Finally ripping the bearings of the cams to pieces, destroying twin turbo, vacuum pump and engine.
I feal your pain brother.
Madzda australia knows ahout the issues thus replaced engine with a current engine, turbo and vac pump free of charge. Just paid for a service it was booked into the dealer for.
Bruce
I feal your pain brother.
Madzda australia knows ahout the issues thus replaced engine with a current engine, turbo and vac pump free of charge. Just paid for a service it was booked into the dealer for.
Bruce
#36
Any ideas if further "Special" resets are required after cleaning or changing the DPF?
Many thanks everyone!
#37
Yet another late reply to keep the thread alive: guess I have a thing for dodgy mechanics: the whole problem with the car not coming back to full power after the DPF cleanup was due to a mechanic "forgetting" to properly fit one vacuum hose back on the turbocharger. Fixed that, and some time later the car is still going strong. Probably will drive it till it dies, it's so much fun (when it works properly).
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