ok. so this shouldn't affect my smog much? I have an inspection coming up this month (yeah, I know the CEL would fail it but I think if I clear the code right before the inspection, it should pass...it happened last time). just wondering if it'll have a huge impact....even if it is carb legal or whatever. i'll talk to my regular mechanic (the one I can only get to on weekends) who is probably good with this stuff.

my first priority is finding out what is causing the CEL.... but yeah, I need to get something fixed there with that broken rubber + the jiggly MAF.

 

In this Video: Mazda 6 idle with raised rpm's - YouTube
You can see how the Stock one looks like (piece attached to intake accordian tube at the top before the throttle body.

 

I just took a picture of mine. You can see the connection on my 2006. Your pic has obviously been tampered/mickey moused with. If you buy a new accordian tube, you will not have the proper piece to join it with, so buying a new stock piece is stupid, plus the fact the Accordian tube cracks with age (get rid of it).
However, with the K&N you do not need that piece (as you can see it is cut off and still attached to old one). K&N supplies you with a great silicone hose that attaches to that and joins to the intake tube a few inches earlier and to the side on the aluminum section.

 

yeah, that is my 2nd accordian tube (previous one ripped), its actually sturdier/thicker than the stock one, so maybe that's where it got messed around with.

I'll discuss with the mechanic about the new setup when I go over there (maybe this weekend).

 

Any issues with the K&N throwing the CEL like other CAI?

 

No Issues. Never had a Cel. The Maf is located on a straight section. You have to follow the instructions properly.
1) Disconnect negative battery terminal and step on brake pedal for 5-10 seconds before removing stock piece
2) there is a vaccuum line you must plug (the one you removed from stock air box front on left side (K&N gives you a cap plug after removing 1 section of vac line you plug it after the white ball check valve). See pic below.
3) you must remove the green solenoid from the stock air box and leave the elctrical plugged in, they give you a place to mount it as per previous pics pg 11
4) the stock bottom bracket that holds your stock air box is also used to mount the K&N. You Flip it upside down (as per previous pics pg 11). It does get rusty, so buying a new one, sanding and painting it is best option.
5) you cut back the fitting (the one xericx is missing) as per previous pic (this page) and attach the supplied silicone hose to it to attach to side as per previous pic (this page)
6) let it idle for 10 minutes before driving. Re-learning has begun and will continue for at least another 50-100 miles.



The above pic shows you what vac line needs to be removed from your Stock Air Box. You cap it in front of that white ball.

 

got my scan tool. P0174 again. took the freeze frame data, what should i look for?

STFT1: 11.7
STFT2: 11.7
LTFT1: 17.2
LTFT2: 20.3

@1995rpm 17mph

there are 30 fields. I'll play with it a bit more later when i get home.

I guess it hooks up to a computer. I use macs but I do have a PC laptop I'll try it on.

 

Its probably a long shot for your situation but i just had my 3.0l done and had codes for running lean and misfire. With regards to my thermostat and rad hoses. Fixed them up, engine light was gone and codes left.
Like i said most likely not your case, but check it out if you still cant fix her.
Good luck

 

This thread has gotten very long. Maybe a recap of what you have done would be helpful.

Did you;
1) Get your fuel injectors checked to see if they were bad or plugged & also bad orings,
2) Get your EGR checked out/cleaned/replaced
3) Check fuel pressure readings? I know you dumped the fuel cleaner into the system, but whens the last time the fuel filter was changed

This is a repeat of what has been said, but was it done?

 

Nope not yet. I haven't had the chance since I had other things going on. The fact that the only good guy I've found as a mechanic is on the other side of town and I can only get there on the weekends AND if he's not too busy.


I was meaning to do a lot of this over the weekend (or next). I just had other things to fix before that and it got expensive (Exhaust leak, engine mount, tensioner (waste of money it seems but I got it refunded), and valve cover gaskets/oil leak) and now this crappy MAF housing/hosing with the intake.

I've been cheap to do stuff because I wasted money throwing parts at the beginning (O2 sensor, cylinder coils, etc). Biggest fear is that I blow $600+ for a new fuel pump/filter and it doesn't do a damned thing and the same thing happens. so Ive been taking it slow and monitoring.