Should I buy this used Mazda 6?
#1
Should I buy this used Mazda 6?
I am planning to buy a used 2007 Mazda 6 i touring edition. It has about 60k km and sells for $13k Canadian dollars. This is bought at auction by the dealer.
Before my test drive, it took a few sec to start the engine. The salesperson told me the battery almost ran out. How long does the battery usually last? The interior panels are loose. The relative position of the left exhaust tip isn't the same as the right, and it seems to be damaged. The power steering fluid seems dirty.
The pictures are attached. Thanks for your advise!
Before my test drive, it took a few sec to start the engine. The salesperson told me the battery almost ran out. How long does the battery usually last? The interior panels are loose. The relative position of the left exhaust tip isn't the same as the right, and it seems to be damaged. The power steering fluid seems dirty.
The pictures are attached. Thanks for your advise!
#2
Show me the CarFax (do they have that in Canada???)! It has been the experience of many - myself included - that the stock battery is garbage. This, however, is not a Mazda specific issue as owners of other cars have had similar experiences. A good battery should last a long time. With regards to the particular car you are asking about, I don't think I'd by it. Looks like there are some indications that it may have been involved in an accident and there is deferred maintenance. I'd keep looking.
Last edited by 93greenstrat; 03-04-2012 at 05:25 PM.
#3
Show me the CarFax (do they have that in Canada???)! It has been the experience of many - myself included - that the stock battery is garbage. This, however, is not a Mazda specific issue as owners of other cars have had similar experiences. A good battery should last a long time. With regards to the particular car you are asking about, I don't think I'd by it. Looks like there are some indications that it may have been involved in an accident and there is deferred maintenance. I'd keep looking.
The dealer showed me Carproof, and it is clean. However, not necessarily all accidents and incidents show up. The line in the side picture of chassis is not straight. I am not sure if this is a structure damage or the previous owner hit the chassis on curb.
#5
Should I buy it in the first place? I am still hesitating between 6 and 3. The only reason I go for 6 is that the sedan version is quieter than 3. I think 3 is more reliable and has better fit and finish.
#7
"Looks like there are some indications that it may have been involved in an accident and there is deferred maintenance. I'd keep looking. "
.....or squeeze the price....dramatically.
At that mileage some deferred maintenance should not be the end of the car or the start of a heap of trouble. Just do the maintenance and drive. A slightly abused car can be a heck of a deal. But I am sensing you want something perfect.
As far as the possible accident is concerned: to find the damage you would have to measure the body against the factory specs on a frame rig (I don't know the exact term for it) at the body shop. At least you should drive it after adjusting the tire pressure of all 4 wheels and checking for pulling left or right on a even and straight stretch of road while there is hardly any wind. Most roads are crowned and a perfectly aligned car will pull slightly right. So you need to go on opposite lane to see if it pulls slightly left while avoiding a head on collision.
How dramatically could you squeeze the price: 1 set of tires (a curb jump is likely to damage them), a body alignment check and a 4 wheel alignment. Find out the typical cost of these and have fun looking at the dealer's facial expression of disbelieve!
.....or squeeze the price....dramatically.
At that mileage some deferred maintenance should not be the end of the car or the start of a heap of trouble. Just do the maintenance and drive. A slightly abused car can be a heck of a deal. But I am sensing you want something perfect.
As far as the possible accident is concerned: to find the damage you would have to measure the body against the factory specs on a frame rig (I don't know the exact term for it) at the body shop. At least you should drive it after adjusting the tire pressure of all 4 wheels and checking for pulling left or right on a even and straight stretch of road while there is hardly any wind. Most roads are crowned and a perfectly aligned car will pull slightly right. So you need to go on opposite lane to see if it pulls slightly left while avoiding a head on collision.
How dramatically could you squeeze the price: 1 set of tires (a curb jump is likely to damage them), a body alignment check and a 4 wheel alignment. Find out the typical cost of these and have fun looking at the dealer's facial expression of disbelieve!
Last edited by tanprotege; 03-05-2012 at 09:47 AM.
#9
I'm sure that TP is considering the fact that it seems the car has not been very well maintained by the various factors you've already mentioned.
As far as buying it is concerned I say go with your gut, and from where I'm standing your gut is telling you no.
I used to go to car auctions and most of the time there's a reason the cars end up there... and its often not a good reason either.
I bought a car from an auction I went to once and it turned out to be a pretty good one... but my gut told me it would be.
Pass on this one since that seems to be what yours is telling you.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
ogcsmith
Mazda5
7
04-02-2013 02:15 PM
JimMayor007
General Tech
0
09-24-2007 07:01 PM