V6 3.0 Failure!
#1
V6 3.0 Failure!
Head gasket failure at 120,000 miles? Both head bolts were loose on rear bank and the rest were locked solid. Both pistons and bores damaged due to coolant leak. Never has this problem with Mazda engines before. Is this an issue with 2003? Looking at a replacement motor at this point. Anyone use japanengines.com before? I'm looking for options. Thanks, Mike.
#2
Man; I'm so sorry to hear that. Were there any issues before before your engine died (singes of coolant leak/loss, engine running hot, etc.)??? Have you looked at any salvaged 3.0L Ford Taurus or Escape engines (the Mazda AJ is actually a Ford Duratec 30)?
#3
As noted, the engine is a Ford, not Mazda.
There are options, but you need to keep a few things in mind related to VVT and heads:
Underhood Service
Rebuilding the Ford 3.0L: Engine Builder
One from a Fusion or Taurus is more economical than one from another 6. But again, check the two links above and note what engines can be used.
Someone on another Mazda board picked-up a Jasper rebuilt engine from NAPA for $2200. Jasper is very well known and I'd trust them.
There are options, but you need to keep a few things in mind related to VVT and heads:
Underhood Service
Rebuilding the Ford 3.0L: Engine Builder
One from a Fusion or Taurus is more economical than one from another 6. But again, check the two links above and note what engines can be used.
Someone on another Mazda board picked-up a Jasper rebuilt engine from NAPA for $2200. Jasper is very well known and I'd trust them.
#4
We only have had the car 4 months and bought it from a guy that had it a year....he bought it from the original owner. The guy we bought it from is local and a car guy so I'm sure he did not overheat it or not change the oil. The Mazda Dealer felt the failure was from neglect of proper oil changes. Another mechanic there said those two cylinders are subject to getting hot if your coolant gets low. We are researching the Ford motor as a replacement at this point. The Escape and 500 have also used this motor I've been told, Mike.
#5
Ok....we found a newer motor with 40,000 miles out of a Ford 500. It is a 2006 motor and does not have the variable cam timing feature on it. See below:
A Variable Valve Timing (VVT) with electronic throttle control for the 2003-’06 Lincoln LS, 2003-’06 Jaguar X-Type applications, 2006 Ford Fusion, Mercury Milan and Lincoln Zephyr, and 2009 Ford Escape. On the 2009 Fusion, a new type of VVT system called “Cam Torque Actuated” (CTA) is used to advance cam timing. The cam phaser generates its own internal pressure rather than relying on oil pump pressure to move the cams. The result is more advance (47°) and better fuel economy.
Being a 2006, we thought they were the same motor. The oil pan was also different and we switched that fine. Is this motor going to work? Do we need to swap the heads and cams from the old motor? Will the Mazda computer freak out if we do not hook up the two cam solenoids? Why would a newer motor not have this feature?
Any help guys? Thanks, Mike.
A Variable Valve Timing (VVT) with electronic throttle control for the 2003-’06 Lincoln LS, 2003-’06 Jaguar X-Type applications, 2006 Ford Fusion, Mercury Milan and Lincoln Zephyr, and 2009 Ford Escape. On the 2009 Fusion, a new type of VVT system called “Cam Torque Actuated” (CTA) is used to advance cam timing. The cam phaser generates its own internal pressure rather than relying on oil pump pressure to move the cams. The result is more advance (47°) and better fuel economy.
Being a 2006, we thought they were the same motor. The oil pan was also different and we switched that fine. Is this motor going to work? Do we need to swap the heads and cams from the old motor? Will the Mazda computer freak out if we do not hook up the two cam solenoids? Why would a newer motor not have this feature?
Any help guys? Thanks, Mike.
#6
Copy & Pasted this:
Cooling System Service
One common problem we’ve seen in high-mileage vehicles with the Duratec engine is coolant contamination caused by rust and corrosion in the coolant pipes that snake around the engine. This is often the result of coolant neglect. Cleaning and flushing the system can get rid of the gunk, but it won’t stop the corrosion inside the steel pipes. Replacing the pipes is recommended to halt the rusting problem.
Electrolysis that eats through the heater core also can be caused by missing, loose or broken engine ground straps. You can use a voltmeter to check for electrolysis in the coolant. Remove both cables from the battery, then touch the negative test lead to the negative battery post, and the positive lead to the coolant in the radiator or coolant reservoir.
A reading of more than 0.4 volts indicates trouble. Check the engine ground straps. Ford says not to ground the heater core as this will make the electrolysis problem worse. Be sure to drain and refill the cooling system with new coolant.
FROM: Underhood Service Same as KARLT's post (Thanx Karl). I just copied and pasted it for emphasis.
I think overheating, not enough cooling systems flushes may have contributed. I personally do not like the OEM 188 degree thermostat that runs hotter than that. I have a 180 degree one installed when I flushed & filled my coolant.
Check to make sure both your cooling fans are working.
Sorry, can't help you on if motor being the same.
Cooling System Service
One common problem we’ve seen in high-mileage vehicles with the Duratec engine is coolant contamination caused by rust and corrosion in the coolant pipes that snake around the engine. This is often the result of coolant neglect. Cleaning and flushing the system can get rid of the gunk, but it won’t stop the corrosion inside the steel pipes. Replacing the pipes is recommended to halt the rusting problem.
Electrolysis that eats through the heater core also can be caused by missing, loose or broken engine ground straps. You can use a voltmeter to check for electrolysis in the coolant. Remove both cables from the battery, then touch the negative test lead to the negative battery post, and the positive lead to the coolant in the radiator or coolant reservoir.
A reading of more than 0.4 volts indicates trouble. Check the engine ground straps. Ford says not to ground the heater core as this will make the electrolysis problem worse. Be sure to drain and refill the cooling system with new coolant.
FROM: Underhood Service Same as KARLT's post (Thanx Karl). I just copied and pasted it for emphasis.
I think overheating, not enough cooling systems flushes may have contributed. I personally do not like the OEM 188 degree thermostat that runs hotter than that. I have a 180 degree one installed when I flushed & filled my coolant.
Check to make sure both your cooling fans are working.
Sorry, can't help you on if motor being the same.
Last edited by UseYourNoggin; 01-20-2012 at 03:32 PM.
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