Brian MP5T
#11
I make Maps as a profession, We Have BIG Plotters.
#12
Dayem, Dude!! BIG plotters, huh? That sure comes in handy then. Too bad you couldn't make a viable business out of that... assuming you are working for someone else, of course.
How much would a poster like that cost the average person? $100? $150? No matter what they'd have to want it pretty badly.
#15
#16
#18
A Rundown of the Plan.
I guess Fall is about to "Fall" so here in the Winter List.
AP Racing 4 Piston Front BBK.
GT Spec Braces
Haltech ECU Controlled Boost Controller
Haltech 3 Bar MAP (Attached Directly to the Intake Manifold, for ZERO LAG)
RA-10 Install
Fix Front Bumper. (****ing raccoon!!! **** **** ****!!)
Repaint Front and Rear Bumper
Remove stickers from Left and Right running boards and Repaint.
Repair paint on A-Pillar and Repaint.
Front and Rear Aluminum Strut mount.
Oh, PS.
Add to the List.
2 Sets of CP Pistons
2 Sets of Olliver Rods
3 Sets of Toga Mains
3 Sets of Toga Rod Bearings
3 MLS Gaskets.
1 additional set of piston Rings.
The plan is to have fully rebuilt the MP5T Motor and have two fully forged spares in the garage up to the same SPEC.
^^^ Yesterdays Post
So an Update on the ideas in my brain.
The ECU delivers fuel and timing as a function of..
Engine Speed
Manifold Pressure
The faster the ECU can read the MAP, the better the fuel and ignition delivery will be.
So, the current MAP is built into the ECU and is connected to the manifold via a silicone hose. It is short, but I noticed a huge improvement when I reduced the length of hose. My idea is to get a 30 PSI MAP sensor that does not use a hose at all. Instead, it has a 1/8" NTP thread, I plan to remove the manifold and tap a hole into it.
The MAP will be directly attached to the Manifold, this would remove as much lag as possible and make fuel and ignition as accurate as possible.
How Lag Manifests: Lets say you have a long hose, the time difference between a rapid throttle application and when the sensor actually moves creates a temporary lean condition. This happens at exactly the wrong time, it can be compensated by what is known as a Throttle Pump Delivery. This throttle pump reads a quick change in position based on the TPS which is electric and thus instantaneous compared to the MAP. It is difficult to set if the MAP has LAG because the results are not linear.
The MAP Looks like this..
I guess Fall is about to "Fall" so here in the Winter List.
AP Racing 4 Piston Front BBK.
GT Spec Braces
Haltech ECU Controlled Boost Controller
Haltech 3 Bar MAP (Attached Directly to the Intake Manifold, for ZERO LAG)
RA-10 Install
Fix Front Bumper. (****ing raccoon!!! **** **** ****!!)
Repaint Front and Rear Bumper
Remove stickers from Left and Right running boards and Repaint.
Repair paint on A-Pillar and Repaint.
Front and Rear Aluminum Strut mount.
Oh, PS.
Add to the List.
2 Sets of CP Pistons
2 Sets of Olliver Rods
3 Sets of Toga Mains
3 Sets of Toga Rod Bearings
3 MLS Gaskets.
1 additional set of piston Rings.
The plan is to have fully rebuilt the MP5T Motor and have two fully forged spares in the garage up to the same SPEC.
^^^ Yesterdays Post
So an Update on the ideas in my brain.
The ECU delivers fuel and timing as a function of..
Engine Speed
Manifold Pressure
The faster the ECU can read the MAP, the better the fuel and ignition delivery will be.
So, the current MAP is built into the ECU and is connected to the manifold via a silicone hose. It is short, but I noticed a huge improvement when I reduced the length of hose. My idea is to get a 30 PSI MAP sensor that does not use a hose at all. Instead, it has a 1/8" NTP thread, I plan to remove the manifold and tap a hole into it.
The MAP will be directly attached to the Manifold, this would remove as much lag as possible and make fuel and ignition as accurate as possible.
How Lag Manifests: Lets say you have a long hose, the time difference between a rapid throttle application and when the sensor actually moves creates a temporary lean condition. This happens at exactly the wrong time, it can be compensated by what is known as a Throttle Pump Delivery. This throttle pump reads a quick change in position based on the TPS which is electric and thus instantaneous compared to the MAP. It is difficult to set if the MAP has LAG because the results are not linear.
The MAP Looks like this..
#19
Here is where I placed the ECU, Finally got the bracket.
Easy access, plus it's a good spot for car shows as the panel comes off in seconds.
New CRUNK.
Looks Great, Feels Better..
New Goodies.
Summer Spare Engine.
Arias 8.5:1 Ceramic Coated Piston with Teflon Skirt.
Pauter Forged Rods
Rebuild starts Tuesday
Engine goes to Renfrew for a week
The funny thing is there are a lot of big ticket $$$ Items in the car, but I actually think the hundreds of $100 - $200 parts are the ones that proved to be the most expensive...
So an update for June 08th 2010.
As most know, it is often easier to simply remove something and not put it back in.
When I blew my engine in 2004, The AC came Out, The Power Steering came Out.
I soon found out that the stock cooling pump sucked in traffic, so the primary loop was removed as well as the T-Stat. With the T-Stat out, the heater core came out as well. So The Coolant has no choice but to go through the rad every time.
the engine temperature is rarely consistent, and is always below 85 Degrees.
The Mechanical Cooling Pump is coming OUT!
A Shorter belt is going to the only thing belt driven, The Alternator.
A 1/2' Aluminum plate is going to cover the hole where the pump was and is being sealed, plus the location of the old pump will be bored out a bit by hand as the shape is no longer required for the centrifugal pump..
The Haltech has the ability to control everything from solid rocket boosters, to Flat-Shifting.
The Pump will be set to a 5% minimum duty, (Digital Pulsed Signal with a solid state relay) and be ramped up to a target as controlled by the Haltech.
It will be set to maintain a steady temperature of 90 Degrees C in conjunction with another channel controlling a variable speed fan.
In short, the new pump is the thermostat, but because the pump is not driven by the engine, it does not drag the engine down.
A mechanical pump is almost useless at low speeds (Like Stuck In Traffic)
A mechanical pump is almost useless at high engine speeds (Cavitation)
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...5-details.aspx
Also.. LOL The Timing Map
So John got a SPORT20
I have called Dibbs on the rear lights, front and rear bumper and the seats.
The rear bumper is much more tucked in than the American one.. Like 6" it looks like.. I'm Super Excited! It's going to look BAD ***.
The Sport 20
B10.jpg?t=1276221108
The Protege5
NewStuffForUL-34.jpg?t=1276221146
Both Photo-Chopped together.
New_Bumper.jpg?t=1276221168
SHIFTER.jpg?t=1276339870
Easy access, plus it's a good spot for car shows as the panel comes off in seconds.
New CRUNK.
Looks Great, Feels Better..
New Goodies.
Summer Spare Engine.
Arias 8.5:1 Ceramic Coated Piston with Teflon Skirt.
Pauter Forged Rods
Rebuild starts Tuesday
Engine goes to Renfrew for a week
The funny thing is there are a lot of big ticket $$$ Items in the car, but I actually think the hundreds of $100 - $200 parts are the ones that proved to be the most expensive...
So an update for June 08th 2010.
As most know, it is often easier to simply remove something and not put it back in.
When I blew my engine in 2004, The AC came Out, The Power Steering came Out.
I soon found out that the stock cooling pump sucked in traffic, so the primary loop was removed as well as the T-Stat. With the T-Stat out, the heater core came out as well. So The Coolant has no choice but to go through the rad every time.
the engine temperature is rarely consistent, and is always below 85 Degrees.
The Mechanical Cooling Pump is coming OUT!
A Shorter belt is going to the only thing belt driven, The Alternator.
A 1/2' Aluminum plate is going to cover the hole where the pump was and is being sealed, plus the location of the old pump will be bored out a bit by hand as the shape is no longer required for the centrifugal pump..
The Haltech has the ability to control everything from solid rocket boosters, to Flat-Shifting.
The Pump will be set to a 5% minimum duty, (Digital Pulsed Signal with a solid state relay) and be ramped up to a target as controlled by the Haltech.
It will be set to maintain a steady temperature of 90 Degrees C in conjunction with another channel controlling a variable speed fan.
In short, the new pump is the thermostat, but because the pump is not driven by the engine, it does not drag the engine down.
A mechanical pump is almost useless at low speeds (Like Stuck In Traffic)
A mechanical pump is almost useless at high engine speeds (Cavitation)
http://www.daviescraig.com.au/Electr...5-details.aspx
Also.. LOL The Timing Map
So John got a SPORT20
I have called Dibbs on the rear lights, front and rear bumper and the seats.
The rear bumper is much more tucked in than the American one.. Like 6" it looks like.. I'm Super Excited! It's going to look BAD ***.
The Sport 20
B10.jpg?t=1276221108
The Protege5
NewStuffForUL-34.jpg?t=1276221146
Both Photo-Chopped together.
New_Bumper.jpg?t=1276221168
SHIFTER.jpg?t=1276339870