Brian MP5T
#23
06-14-2010 | 11:16 AM
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 156
I was at Meeting of Mazda 2009...
UPDATE:
WP116SHD
This is a remote mounted coolant pump.
It has these Pros.
1. It is not driven by the motor.
-It does not drag the engine all the time
-It is not slaved to the RPM of the engine.
-It can be set to run for 30 seconds after the engine has shut off.
-It can be set to 80% on a switch, to be used the 2 minutes before you park the car. (Park your car at 60Deg vs 100Deg)
2. It is variable as set by the Haltech, You set a target temperature and the Haltech maintains that temperature by adjusting the speed of the pump. So in theory,
-If I am stuck in traffic, this sucker will probably be running about 70% in conjunction with the fan likely doing 55% duty.
-If I am blasting down the highway, it will alternate between 20% and 30% depending on the day, just to hold the engine at 90 Deg C. (This Becomes The New Thermostat)
UPDATE:
WP116SHD
This is a remote mounted coolant pump.
It has these Pros.
1. It is not driven by the motor.
-It does not drag the engine all the time
-It is not slaved to the RPM of the engine.
-It can be set to run for 30 seconds after the engine has shut off.
-It can be set to 80% on a switch, to be used the 2 minutes before you park the car. (Park your car at 60Deg vs 100Deg)
2. It is variable as set by the Haltech, You set a target temperature and the Haltech maintains that temperature by adjusting the speed of the pump. So in theory,
-If I am stuck in traffic, this sucker will probably be running about 70% in conjunction with the fan likely doing 55% duty.
-If I am blasting down the highway, it will alternate between 20% and 30% depending on the day, just to hold the engine at 90 Deg C. (This Becomes The New Thermostat)
#24
06-17-2010 | 06:03 AM
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 156
UPDATE:
The Pump is on the way, It has a 1" Inlet and two AN12 outlets.
The 1" has an aluminum 1.25" Hose adapter, so from the rad to the pump, will be hose.
One outlet is getting an AN16 Stainless Steel line to a AN16 Custom Plate that will attach directly to the block without a thermostat housing.
The other outlet will be reduced to AN4 to pass through the turbo cooling chamber, and then be returned to the rad.
The plate on the block will look like this with a fitting welded in place.
The Pump is on the way, It has a 1" Inlet and two AN12 outlets.
The 1" has an aluminum 1.25" Hose adapter, so from the rad to the pump, will be hose.
One outlet is getting an AN16 Stainless Steel line to a AN16 Custom Plate that will attach directly to the block without a thermostat housing.
The other outlet will be reduced to AN4 to pass through the turbo cooling chamber, and then be returned to the rad.
The plate on the block will look like this with a fitting welded in place.
#28
03-24-2011 | 08:21 AM
Thread Starter
|
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 156
The K-Sport struts are much more the strut than the Tein I had on since 2004.
There are three places to adjust.
The Endlink tab is totally adjustable for Rotation and Height.
The Spring Height
The Strut Height
I would NOT EVER RECOMMEND this setup for Daily Driving anywhere near salt or even salt dust. The entire thing is Aluminum and about 50% the weight of the Teins, which is obviously Great News!
You can see the last picture, I finally have a proper solution to prevent the strut piston from flying through the OEM Rubber mount.
There are three places to adjust.
The Endlink tab is totally adjustable for Rotation and Height.
The Spring Height
The Strut Height
I would NOT EVER RECOMMEND this setup for Daily Driving anywhere near salt or even salt dust. The entire thing is Aluminum and about 50% the weight of the Teins, which is obviously Great News!
You can see the last picture, I finally have a proper solution to prevent the strut piston from flying through the OEM Rubber mount.
