Hey guys whats up??? I have had this car for a few months now and am in need of some answers here and there. Thought maybe y'all could shine some light on some things. Any who ... I plan on making this car a track only car one day. But in mean time I wanna play. Right now I'm trying to find out how to do the VCTS delete. Cant find anything on how to do it on a MSP. Been searching google and Mazdas24/7 since 9 am central time that is. And if your near the Houston area hit me up. I go to meets just about every weekend.

 

Hi MSPlifestyle: do you really think that the MSP is so much different from the others?





VCTS removal review - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum

Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum › ... › MazdaSpeed3 Modifications‎
Jul 20, 2011 - 6 posts - 3 authors
VCTS removal review MazdaSpeed3 Modifications.The new improved VTCS removal Guide
Beginner's Guide to the VCTS Removal
vcts for 2.0
Just did the VCTS removal, WOW!!!

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Feb 28, 2008
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Just be nice if I knew for sure what all had to come off and what not. To get to the IM . Im pretty sure i could just go tear in to it and be fine but at the same time its my baby and wanna do it right 100%

 

Some stuff i found:

You are thinking of the VICS system. The VCTS system acts like a choke during cold, low RPM operation. It almost completely blocks off the intake runners when the engine is cold, and forces the air to "tumble" as it enters the combustion chamber. This allows for more complete combustion while the engine is warming up. It is basically an emission device. But, it also partially blocks the intake runners during normal temperature operation.

I removed the VTCS valves on my 2.3 Mazda3. What a mistake!!!!!
In any temperatures near or below freezing, the car is almost undrivable until the car is up to near full operating temp. The car bucks, and sputters until it hits about 4000 RPM, then it just takes off. Driving in snow out of the driveway is almost impossible. Either the car just sputters and falls on it's face, or it just goes WOT and spins the wheels. After it fully warms up it is normal, but it is just not worth it. The benefit is barely noticable.
Also, my fuel economy has gone into the crapper. My last tank went down to 350km before the light came on, where before I would get around 450km before the light came on.
I will be putting the valves back in as soon as possible.........

This must be a popular pic, found it in a different spot, other than Tanprotege!

 

Hey, sorry i sounded abit rough. I am glad Noggin picked this up. He has some experience with mods. All the best!

 

I have a friend that did this . Gave him way better response time. He drove the car 7 years no problems. Also have read other places that alot of people do it for the reason of it being a turbo car more air flow equals more hp . Sorry to say but Im going to have to do this. Will be taking IM off tonight to start the cleaning process then tomorrow will work on port and polish with And yes I mean VCTS butterflies and plugging holes Then painting it black if it doesn't come super new clean look. But I have total faith in my friend he is like the MSP god. So on to doing this ... will post up pics tonight

 

Definitely more air = more power. You may be on to something with plugging the holes as maybe the person's that complained didn't plug the holes.
If you didn't plug the holes, cross air flow problems will occur. However, make sure you plug the holes with something that won't stick out or come out! - and a relatively smooth transition. Last thing you need is a foreign piece in your cylinder (ouchy mama)!
Good Luck. Let us know how it goes, either way.
Take some pictures and post them!
Let us know what intake manifold is made of at this spot and what you used to plug up holes.
Good Luck.
Any re-programming? Hope you don't get too lean. Turbo engines should not be leaner than 12:1 air fuel ratio in power band. Naturally aspirated can go to almost 13:1 afr on efi.
Want more power? READ: https://www.mazdaforum.com/forum/nit...-turbos-30333/